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Old 02-28-2013, 11:07 AM   #151
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So just above the return pump?
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:38 PM   #152
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Unplug the pump and see where the water back siphons to in the sump. If it finishes 8" from the top then you can add a little water. If it gets too close to overfilling for comfort then a little less water is advisable.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:54 PM   #153
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It's a trial Nd error process to figure out water levels in sump
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:17 PM   #154
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Should I notch the PVC right above the dt water level?
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:09 PM   #155
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You drill a small hole just below water level. Apps a 1/4 inch or so. This way it will suction a bit but not much. Once it hits the hole it sucks air an say goodbye to siphon.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:06 PM   #156
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So I'm finally going to start plumbing my sump. How long should I wait between glueing and starting water flow?
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:59 PM   #157
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I would wait till morning but that's me if you need it running sooner it should be fine. Read the can sets in like 20 cures in ?
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:45 PM   #158
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I'm going to glue everything accept for overflows tonite. Is primer necessary? Tomorrow I will remove my hob and canister and add my overflows. Should I add my filter pad and my bio rings to my sump for a few weeks?
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:55 AM   #159
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No primer. Yes Rings won't hurt, pads depends how dirty. I still have my hob on for like four months, some say leave it for 6 months some say it's not needed at all. I play it safe and as long as its not hurting nothing it's fine IMO.
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:32 AM   #160
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So tonite I found out that my sump will not fit through the doors on stand. Ugh! Time to regroup and figure out how to make this work.
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