System build

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lynxpilot

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
141
Location
Ava, MO
Putting system together next week. Here's the list:

Tank- Glass, 48x24x24 (120), pre-drilled for 2 overflows, with overflows, black trim.

Stand- Pine. Part of package. I might make one later.

Refugium- forgot brand, but about 30 gallons. Could've made one but I'm already making too many things in my shop now.

Lights- Coralife Aqualight Pro (2x150 MH, 2x96 PC, 3 lunar)

Skimmer- Coralife Super Skimmer (220)

Pump- Supreme Classic Model 12

Top- Glass. No canopy.

Overflow kits- forgot what they were.

Circulators- 2 x HydroKoralia 4

I'll start with sculpted BR/LR on a bed of aragonite (sp?). Plan is to drill BR/LR and insert 316 stainless rod to shape rocks. I'd like to form canopy levels which double as shelters for low-light fish and as platforms for high-light corals. I'm hoping the stainless rod won't contribute to any metal leeching, but 316 is supposed to be pretty stable in saltwater. Not sure what to put in as far as salt, chems, bios to start with but I'm still searching on here for the next steps. I'll throw in a few dinner shrimp to get the nitrogen cycle started. We'll use the rest of the shrimp for my shrimp fettucini alfredo (it's really good). I'm also not sure about test kits, hygrometers, and such. Also need a heater and would like it in the refugium rather than the tank. Good heater advice would be appreciated too. I'm being patient about stocking, so I haven't even considered buying critters yet. I'll post pics when I get the first batch of goodies. Once it's all here, I'll be able to develop a shopping list for plumbing.

Cool website!
 
Couple quick thoughts. 1) Why not use acrylic rods instead of stainless? 2) If you're going to use uncured live rock or certain types of base rock (Marco comes to mind) then you won't need the shrimp, you can just throw the extra on the BarB. You'll have more than enough ammonia sources. 3) You may want to consider eggcrate or open top, a glass top inhibits gas exchange. 4) With headloss, I'm not sure a Danner Mag-Drive Supreme 12 will get you there (if that's the model you were referencing and assuming you've got 2 1" overflows). 5) No chems unless you test for them and they prove to be low. 6) Skip the hygro and get the refracto.

Sounds sweet though. Can't wait for the progression pics. What the stocking plan?

O yea, welcome to the family !!
 
Stainless was so I could bend to shape. Glass top was for full cover because I'd really like to get a zebra moray in there. If need be, I could always add a vent, but I'm guessing the refugium would probably provide all gas exchange I could possibly need. I'm also wondering if the refugium could be used for critters that weren't compatible in the tank. Do they have enough open water volume to accomodate something like anemones, horses, or corals? Or would I be defeating the purpose in the first place?

As far as stocking, it's for my wife and she'll have to decide. I know what I like, but most of my choices aren't compatible with very much. I really like the morays, and from what I've read the zebra will only predate on crustaceans and other inverts. I also like anglers, scorpions, and lions. All of the above seem to be compatible with coral from what I've read, but I'd also like to add some color and some of the best ones, like clowns, wouldn't work with any of the above except maybe the zebra.

What is the best approach for water testing? Full kits for everything or what?

Thanks for the feedback.
 
I skip the master kits and buy what I need when I need it and don't get tied down to one manufacturer. Lots of people banish things to the sump but what you have listed require specific lighting considerations and flow. Unless you are planning on putting some high end lighting in the sump it's probably not going to work and would be touch and go either way.,

Good luck on the zebra. All I would add is that when you read that the zebra needs a 125G or larger they are generally talking about a 'classic' 125 ie 6ft long. Your tank, although having a capacity if 120 has the general foot print of a 75. My 90 is the same way 48X. More water volume but less length to stretch out.
 
Brrrrrrrrrringgggggggggggg ..... and we're off to the races........................... :)
 
I'm noticing some bad feedback regarding the Coralife Super Skimmer. Who makes a really good one?
 
I REALLY like the large clams. Does any other reef critter conflict with them?
 
Might need a more mature tank before dipping into that pond. You also need some pretty heavy lighting as well. Several here have them (I don't). I know MrsBean does and I think ccC. I'm sure they'll latch onto this thread before long. Ground up build threads are great, it's like building a new tank and not spending any money !
 
I know what you mean. And I'd just as soon have it that way anyway. I know there's a lot of experience here and I'm going to captialize on it. I figure the difference in price between what the store geek tells me and what I learn on here is insignificant, especially considering the cost of failed items and the domino effect after them. My only limit right now is space and I've picked a 120 as my limit. As far as what keeps it going, I want the best.
 
A mature tank for sure. It really depends what type clam you get. I have a squamosa clam and have VHO lighting and it does well. Some of your more colorful clams need more intensity like MH`s. Here is my squamosa.

100_1949.jpg
 
What I was wondering was if what I'd like to get, like lions, zebra moray, and anglers, would pick on the clams. Next, I'll start worrying about whether or not I can have corals and anemones as well as having clowns along with the predators listed above. I noticed that one member had a snowflake eel along with clowns, so certainly I'd be OK with a zebra along with clowns, no?
 
Here's my Maxima.
maxima_3-08.jpg


One thing to remember, if you are going for a predator tank, most are somewhat messy eaters. You have to be extra diligent on maintanence if you also want to keep clams or corals. Clams/coral need pristine water quality.

Also....check the link Mike posted. Clams are on the diet of the eel.
 
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