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Old 03-25-2006, 10:57 AM   #11
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What type of RO/DI system? I typed in "RO DI" on ebay, and I found RO/DI units anywhere from $50 to about $300..

What do I need? I assume I probably only need about 100GPD or less ince its a 55g tank, and my PWC would only be 20-30g.

I tested my tap water with my liquid test kit and Nitrate was present about 20ppm... But what I don't get is my 29g tank that has now been established just over 3 months has 0ppm nitrate's, both tanks are using tap water with IO salt mix.

I think the biggest problem with the 55g is the major die off from the LR, due to the shipping issues...

My Coralife Super Skimmer is on its way..

I just cleaned the Canister filter's sponges the other day, so hopefully that will help a little. I don't *think* there is anything else that is dead on the LR it self, infact I am just starting to notice some color apearing on the LR, so hopefully it will begin to recover now.

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-TheChad
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Old 03-25-2006, 03:21 PM   #12
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If your tap is 80 ppm on nitrates that`s you problem right there. Your RO/DI will be a lifesaver to your tank.
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Old 03-25-2006, 05:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melosu58
If your tap is 80 ppm on nitrates that`s you problem right there. Your RO/DI will be a lifesaver to your tank.
Oops! I ment 20ppm, not 80ppm...


One problem I see with the RO/DI's is they are sooo slow. My In-Laws have one they use for drinking water, but it is soo slow. We make Saltwater 1g at a time, and mix the salt.

Using tap water it takes a long time to change 20+ gallons, the RO/DI is bound to take 3x longer.. Wish there was a better way..


I still don't understand why my 29g tank has no nitrate problems!?

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Old 03-26-2006, 03:48 PM   #14
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RODI takes a long time, so your best bet is to get a rubermaid tub from Lowes or somewhere for about $10 and fill it full of water. You can also get a float valve for them, so that when you take the water out it refills itself. I have another tub too with a pump in it that mixes my saltwater.
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Old 03-26-2006, 09:32 PM   #15
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Would a 4 gallon bladder do the same thing as the rubermaid tube?

We make saltwater 1 gallon at a time..

THanks,

-TheChad
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:14 AM   #16
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Old 03-28-2006, 09:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChad
What type of RO/DI system? I typed in "RO DI" on ebay, and I found RO/DI units anywhere from $50 to about $300..
A lot of people get them from ebay for around $100. Below are the 3 most popular sites:
Filter-Direct-store (seems to be most popular on this site)
The-Aqua-Safe-Pure-Water-Shop
ROfilterDepot

Also airwaterice.com is a good place if you don’t want to deal with ebay.

As you are aware having 20 ppm no3 in your tap is an issue and needs to be resolved ASAP. The reason you have 0 readings in your other tank is because it’s developed enough bacteria to reduce the no3. Your new 55 gal has not yet.

You may want to consider a hob refugium to help with nutrient exportation since you do not plan on using a sump.
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Old 03-28-2006, 10:56 AM   #18
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I am assuming the RO's with the Bladder's will be faster than not using a bladder? In other words, since I only make Saltwater 1 gallon at a time, the RO should be able to refill the bladder faster than I take it out, but if I get water from the RO directly, I know they are slow..

Does it matter if it has 1 or 2 DI stages?

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Old 03-29-2006, 10:47 AM   #19
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I guess it was a false alarm.

I tested the water yesterday in the 55g, and the nitrates were down to 80ppm (I haven't changed any water), which is allot more normal after a cycle... I guess the last test I did was right at the last part of the cycle.

Now the cycle should be over.

The Coralife Super Skimmer is coming UPS today, I will get that installed, and do a PWC to hopefully rid the remaining Nitrates.

Once we are at 0ppm, I am going to add a couple of chromis's to maintain the bacteria, while I put in my clean up crew to get rid of the dead stuff that has fallen off the LR, and is laying on the sand bed.

Once the clean up crew gets done with that, I am going to put my inverts and fish from my 29g into the 55g tank, and move the Chromis's to the 29g tank to maintain the Bacteria in that tank in between occupants, the 29g will be my QT tank, I will leave the Chromis's in there full time.

I figured Chromis's would be a good choice because from what I have read, they are hardy, but don't have the aggression that Damsel's have..

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Old 03-29-2006, 11:04 AM   #20
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I have a Blue Green Chromis which is considered a damsel but is the least aggressive fish in my tank. It has grown 1” in the last 9 months and maxes out around 3”. I’d get 1 or 3 to start. Fun active fish imo.
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