Tap water and conditioner for start cycle???

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Maybe I will cut a piece of acrylic and drill holes and use Teflon screws to brace it together. Sound like a plan? ....
 
I have seen that done, but I would drain the tank to make sure the glass was back to it's "unstretched" position be fore doing it. If you can identify the manufacturer, you can also likely remove and replace the entire top trim, but you would also need to drain the tank.

I think that bracing might be critical for a bowfront. You definitely don't want a seam to blow out or a catastrophic crack to form and drain that entire tank on the floor.
 
I have seen that done, but I would drain the tank to make sure the glass was back to it's "unstretched" position be fore doing it. If you can identify the manufacturer, you can also likely remove and replace the entire top trim, but you would also need to drain the tank.

I think that bracing might be critical for a bowfront. You definitely don't want a seam to blow out or a catastrophic crack to form and drain that entire tank on the floor.

Bracing is a must for a bowfront. ID the manufacturer and you can het a replacement top trim for about $40.
 
I'll see if he can get one from the manufacturer but for now I will make a custom brace for it. Isn't there a place that sells the top braces?
 
Some LFS will sell the top braces, but you will probably have to bring the tank to them to ensure a proper fit, especially for a bowfront.
 
Some guy at the lfs said it would be fine, if it was going to burst it would have last night and t
hat if it was a rectangle 55 then there would be a problem.my center brace on my 55 has been broke since it was giving to me. When my friend told me that (( I rolled my eyes)) like really. A bowfront has less support because the glass bows outward.
 
Sometimes they put it on a sticker on the bottom. Or if you get exact measurements you can compare to what various places offer to try to find it.

No sticker but I know the measurements. So I am going to cut some 1/2 acrylic.

And I just built my 38g sump today. Pics to follow.
 
Just have to cut the hole for the return and I'm golden.
 
Then why would you drill a hole for return?

I have the fitting for the side when I make the hole and I figured it would be nicer to have one so the pump is secured in there. I just build my friends sump from an old one and I did that, will only because there was a hole there already in his.

image-355091773.jpg
 
Every hole you drill is a potential leak point. I would have it come out over the top. The only reason I would drill a return is to make space in the sump, and cut down heat in the water, by putting an external pump in play.
 
Every hole you drill is a potential leak point. I would have it come out over the top. The only reason I would drill a return is to make space in the sump, and cut down heat in the water, by putting an external pump in play.

Well the danner mag drive has threads on both sides so could I technically make it external?
 
I see on some forums people are running them externally. I've never done so myself.

I just ordered loc line ball valve and dual float switch for my reef keeper. I have to take all the precautions for a Auto shut off and top off system. The only thing that I am having trouble with the reef keeper is with the net module. I have to do some more digging around in the forums.
 
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