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Old 07-10-2013, 10:33 PM   #31
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no sticker but i know the measurements. So i am going to cut some 1/2 acrylic.

And i just built my 38g sump today. Pics to follow.


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Old 07-11-2013, 11:10 AM   #32
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Just have to cut the hole for the return and I'm golden.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:17 AM   #33
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Are you using an external pump for return?
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:21 AM   #34
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Are you using an external pump for return?
Internal mag drive 1800.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:22 AM   #35
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Then why would you drill a hole for return?
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:26 AM   #36
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Then why would you drill a hole for return?
I have the fitting for the side when I make the hole and I figured it would be nicer to have one so the pump is secured in there. I just build my friends sump from an old one and I did that, will only because there was a hole there already in his.

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:33 AM   #37
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Every hole you drill is a potential leak point. I would have it come out over the top. The only reason I would drill a return is to make space in the sump, and cut down heat in the water, by putting an external pump in play.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:41 AM   #38
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Every hole you drill is a potential leak point. I would have it come out over the top. The only reason I would drill a return is to make space in the sump, and cut down heat in the water, by putting an external pump in play.
Well the danner mag drive has threads on both sides so could I technically make it external?
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:09 PM   #39
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I see on some forums people are running them externally. I've never done so myself.
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:51 AM   #40
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I see on some forums people are running them externally. I've never done so myself.
I just ordered loc line ball valve and dual float switch for my reef keeper. I have to take all the precautions for a Auto shut off and top off system. The only thing that I am having trouble with the reef keeper is with the net module. I have to do some more digging around in the forums.
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