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Old 04-04-2008, 10:40 PM   #11
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Doing great it sounds like. WOW 12 turbo's and a lawnmower blenny you should have your algae wiped out in no time I found 2 turbo's in my 46g do a decent job digesting any algae I have. Dr fosters & smith is a good source for about anything for a reef tank especially the live rock they give big pieces covered in coraline algae. I just ordered 30# of sand and a bucket of salt some test kits etc... shipping only 12.99 all the way across the country. Just curious though How exactly are you preparing your salt water before it goes in your tank do you have a RO/DI unit set up?? and do you wait 24 hours before adding it to your tank with a power head to aerate the water??
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Old 04-05-2008, 12:19 PM   #12
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I bought a yard garbage can, heavy duty plastic. I mixed the salt water yesterday with my R/O water from a big 55 gallon drum set up into the garbage can with a 600 gph pump and a shatter/proof heater. My plan is to only run the pump each time I mix salt in, over night, and only run the heater the day before the water change to ensure temperature similarity. The pump ran all last night I unplugged it this AM and plugged in the heater. I plan to do a 20% water change tonight or tomorrow. Does that sound about right? I think your right about too many Turbo snails. They are huge and everywhere. I will take some back today. I am sure Petco loves me. I do plan on ordering the rest of the cleanup crew through the Dr.'s It is the only way I will have anything here. But I want to go slow so I may wait a week or two before I order. As for the air bubble delima. My husband plans on changing pumps today to see if that is where we are still getting some bubbles from. Can a pump have a hair pin air leek??? It is a little giant 700gph works and sounds great but we still have micro bubbles in the tank. Not sure where they are originating from.
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Old 04-05-2008, 03:09 PM   #13
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yes you can use your mh lights, when your calcium levels are high you will begin to see coraline algae again. mh lights are great for coral, noy sure what corals you want to keep though. the turbo snail work great ut when you get those corals in you tank they will probably knock your corals over and off the rocks. thats what my tubos did till i change them out for smaller things.
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Old 04-05-2008, 07:48 PM   #14
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Question new set of questions

The blue actinic look like they are bleaching out the rock too. It is getting worse. I am running the lights about 9 hours, no MH for days now.
1.Is this just natural process or are the lights too strong? I also run moon lights at night.
FYI the pet store took back nine turbo snails it does not look as crazy in there now. My son liked the Blenney so we kept him.
I have a peppermint shrimp, and all the crabs and snails previously mentioned.
2.Can I get a fire red shrimp or will he kill the peppermint shimp or anything else I have?
3.Can you recommend a good starter star fish? I am looking to beef up the cleaner crew next week.
When is it reasonable to add an urchin? I love those little things.
I was looking at the debrtrius pack at the dr"s and they have a sand sifter, I don't know if a new tank can feed him long. I think all of the other things would be ok. What do you think?
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:06 PM   #15
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I put in a pencil urchin and pin cushion in my 55 after the cycle and they are still with me today. The fire shrimp should be ok with the others. I would hold off on the star, it is better to add them to a mature tank, unless you go with a brittle star. Those sand sifting stars can clean up the sand faster then you would think and can quickly starve.
Thos cleaner packs are great ideas but there are way too many critters for a new tank. I would go about 1/2 or 1/3 of what they list.
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:07 PM   #16
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I just noticed the comment about the lawnmower blenny. Is he eating frozen food? If not, you may want to take him back. He could starve without algae in the tank.
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:09 PM   #17
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Question

A brittle star it is. I wasn't so sure about the other's, thanks for confirming it. I love pin cushion's I will be getting one! I will only get one or two a ways apart instead of ordering the package deal. I wondered that too!
The blenney has plenty to eat. In fact, I have never seen such an aggresive eater of algae. He looks like he is going to give himself a nose bleed hitting the rock.
Update: took the pump apart and cleaned it(very dirty inside). We bought it used. Now the air bubbles are gone. Thanks for giving me the idea that the problem was the pump.

Someone said my temperature should be 78 to 82. But the book I bought said 75 or the metabolism of the tank increased. Is the book way off base? I have seen you all say 78-82 several times. Now I am questioning him. Even thought I loved the book.
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:24 PM   #18
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78-82 is the range. Definatley wait a month or 2 between new additions. Even after the initial cylce there can still be mini-cycles when the tank is newly setup. Your tank will likely go threw many phases and different types of algae but once it is fully established the algae may minimize. If you have too much clean-up crew than some will die from starvation. It seems like you have a lot of algae now and you want a big clean-up crew to wipe it out. What happens when they eat all the algae and there isn't enough algae to keep up with the appetite of a large clean-up crew. Just a little food for thought
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:25 PM   #19
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Temp depends on the livestock and where they originate from. For a reef tank you want a slightly higher temp (78-82). Mine is set at 79 and with the help of a fan on a timer with the MH lights stays fairly consistent.

The lawnmower blenny will most likely starve after eating all your algea. I made that mistake when I had a hair algae problem. The turbo snails really were enough as I could see paths that they cleared overnight. I got them together. I still have the turbos, and they knock over anything not glued down. The blenny did not make it after the algae was gone though I tried with sheets of nori every day. That was not emough to keep it healthy and it never took to frozen or prepared foods.

BTW, BRUTE by Rubbermaid are the trash containers/totes to use. All BRUTES are food grade so they will not leach chemicals into the water. That's not true of all trash cans.
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Old 04-06-2008, 01:55 PM   #20
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Someone said my temperature should be 78 to 82. But the book I bought said 75 or the metabolism of the tank increased. Is the book way off base? I have seen you all say 78-82 several times. Now I am questioning him. Even thought I loved the book.
The book is probably talking about a FO (fish-only) tank. It's true that the lower the temp, the lower the metabolism of the fish. And for that reason, they eat less, poop less... and generally make less mess.

But if you're talking any corals at all, then the higher temps are what you want.
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