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Old 11-06-2003, 11:49 AM   #1
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Thoughts on 90 Gallon setup

I have attached a pic of my proposed 90 gallon tank setup, and have a few questions. . .

How long can I keep replacement water (salted, heated and aerated) in the 50 gallon drum before it has to be ditched and re-made?

Where should I put a sump/refugium and what would be the recommended size?

I have a 600gph pump in the filter for returning water to the tank. How many power heads should I get, and what should be their power and placement in the tank?

Any additional comments are welcome, too!

thanks,
Todd
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:56 AM   #2
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It won't let me attach a picture, so please try the following link . . .

http://www.toddwess.com/90gallon.jpg

Be sure to stretch your explorer window to see it in full scale.

Thanks again for any help!

todd
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Old 11-06-2003, 02:31 PM   #3
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You can keep the water almost indefinitely. Keep a lid on it to keep light, dust, and other stuff out...also to control evap.

My first thought is that the 600 gph pump isn't nearly enough. I'd be suprised if you get much more than 400 gph by the time the water gets up to your tank. You need a minimum of 900 gph and more would be better. My thinking is that you'd want at least three MJ1200's in there running on a wavemaker. One on each end of the tank and one about 1/4 of the way across the back of the tank pointing at about a 45* angle. JMHO.
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Old 11-07-2003, 08:45 AM   #4
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Thanks for the advice - that's right - 600 gph is going to do practically nothing.

I can keep the 600 pump, and add a 400 to it, right? Just have two in there for a total of about 900 gph after the 4' head?

Thanks,
Todd
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Old 11-07-2003, 10:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
I can keep the 600 pump, and add a 400 to it, right? Just have two in there for a total of about 900 gph after the 4' head?
no. Unless the pump acutally does 600GPH at 4' head then it probably is designed to pump 600GPH at 0' head. Thus by the time you push the water up 4' your doing as logan said more like 400GPH if not less than that.

Find a pump that will push the desired amount of water at the desired head. So you might have to buy say a 1200GPH pump to get 900GPH at 4' head. (the preceeding was an example)

Also consiter the size of pumps for your storage vessle and your drain vessle. The reason is if you undersize those pumps you could take forever to do a water change by the time you factor in head and distance if the distance from/to the tank is of any great lenght.

Overall i think your concept looks very good in that if you can get it all working how you want then you will have an almost automated setup. My question is with the remove water pump in the basement how will you measure how much water your taking out of the system? I mean will you rig this up to a switch on the main floor so you can monitor how low the main display is getting before you cut off the switch? How have you compensated for the syphon effect in that once water starts to flow out of your tank via this drain line keeping it from draning your tank all the way down to the drain plumbing. Since you in effect will have a syphon draning the water once you get it up and over the lip of the tank you wont really need a pump on tha line execpt to get it started. Maybe you need to incorporate a ball valve on that line aswell so you can open/close the drain line.
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Old 11-07-2003, 12:22 PM   #6
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If this is true, then I have something else to consider.

I'm looking at purchasing a AquaClear Pro Series wet/dry filter.

It is rated for a 150 gallon tank, but can only support up to 600gph.

Their next model up is rated for 200 gallon tank and does 800gph.

Their next model up is trated for a 300 gallon tank and does 1200gph.

I only have a 90 gallon tank - how come the one for a 200 gallon tank is still not powerfull enough???

Should the filter also be able to accomodate the 900gph rate?? I imagine they are talking about the prefilter being able to handle the amount of water being kicked back in by the 1200gph pump.
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Old 11-07-2003, 12:27 PM   #7
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My advice would be to not purchase the wet/dry filter but instead construct your own. The main thing that affects how much it can support when it comes to GPH is the overflow size. The standard U tube overflow with 1" U tube can support between 600 and 700 GPH. Thus the GPH limit. Using two overflows or two U tubes will increase that flow rate accordingly.
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Old 11-07-2003, 12:29 PM   #8
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Also as a general note you should make sure the overflow is rated to process more GPH than your pump can put out.
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Old 11-07-2003, 12:50 PM   #9
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I guess I don't fully understand. If I'm building a 90 gallon reef tank with 1.5 lbs or LR per gallon, I've been told that I don't need bioballs at all and that I should take them out.

Then what is the point of having a filter at all? Once I take the bioballs out, it is just a sump. What is the point of running water (at the INCREDIBLE rate of over 900gph) into an empty acrylic box and pumping it back into the aquarium?

For a 90 gallon reef tank with 1.5 lbs of LR, could I just get away with two (2) Emperor 400 bio-wheel filters? (400gph each)??
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Old 11-07-2003, 12:58 PM   #10
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Then what is the point of having a filter at all? Once I take the bioballs out, it is just a sump. What is the point of running water (at the INCREDIBLE rate of over 900gph) into an empty acrylic box and pumping it back into the aquarium?

Yep. Once you take the bioballs out the Wet/Dry is now just a sump. Thats the main difference between the two. A wet/dry is also often refered to as a trickle filter.

The point to running the water at that rate is that we are trying to reproduce the very powerful currents that existi in the natural reef. Infact 1 flow rate is rather conservitive. You dont nesseccarly need 1 flowing thru the sump. If you wanted you could do 5X thru the sump and picup the rest of the flow via powerheads or a closeed loop system but this would involve more pumps in your main tank, remember one of the uses of a sump is to get stuff out of the tank, or to have more plumbing, etc via a closed loop.

Ultimatly what your looking for is flow.
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