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Old 06-08-2008, 06:48 PM   #21
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Since nobody frowns on oceanic.

i guess ill go with that.
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Old 06-08-2008, 08:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by want2findnemo View Post
Since nobody frowns on oceanic.

i guess ill go with that.
If you mean salt, I wouldn't necessarily say no one frowns on it. I've read numerous complaints about low alkalinity. (How's that to confuse the issue!)

Everyone likes the salt they're using for different reasons, and I'm of the opinion that if it works for ya, then you shouldn't change. You just have to pick one and stick with it long enough to develop your own opinions. I know that doesn't help you choose, but salt mix brand is something you will NOT find a consensus on! (Well... except maybe not go with "Uncle Bob's Special Mix" that the guy at your LFS mixes up "special".)
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Old 06-09-2008, 12:47 PM   #23
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Ok so for the pump, from my research I got 700GPH which is like a MAG 7

And for lights, Im gonna go with 48" T5 Fixture of 4x54W that has reflectors and for the bulbs, but not sure the brand

Im not sure if i need 2 white 2 blue or 3 blue or 1 white.
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Old 06-09-2008, 01:41 PM   #24
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What is is overflow rated for?
The Mag7 is rated for 500gph at 3' HH and 480gph at 4'HH.

You probably want 2-10K and 2-03 Actinic (420nm) bulbs.
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Old 06-09-2008, 04:54 PM   #25
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Im not sure if i did this correctly,

I went here and calcualted that my flow rate is 413

Calculate The Correct Flow Rate

Then I saw that I have 2" from my hole to the top of the tank

So I looked at 2" from the Mag chart

Danner Mag-Drive Supreme 5 500 GPH Water Pump (Saltwater Aquarium Supplies > Water Pumps > Submersible > 500-1000 GPH )

and Mag 7 was the closest




Did I do it right?

I actually have a thread that is open just for my sump question

return pump power
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Old 06-10-2008, 04:24 PM   #26
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See my reply in your other thread. The short answer is NO.

As for flow, you want 10x - 20x or more the tanks water capacity in gph of flow. A 100 gallon reef tank should have 1,000 - 2,000 gallons per hour or more of flow from all sources. That includes the return pumps and power heads but not the pump for the protein skimmer.
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:20 PM   #27
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Hey guys, havent been active online for a while. Been busy with work.

But just to let everyone know who has helped, I havent abandoned the saltwater desire lol! Just been doing a lot of reading and stuff.

Also I have been making a log and taking a lot of pics which i will post before i buy my LR and start cycling.

All the stuff and parts i got are over my bedroom floor so I gotta peice it all together.

Thanks agian for everyone who helped!
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:13 PM   #28
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RO/DI installed.. yippi!

Finsihed setting up the RO/DI.

Instructions on the site wasnt that great. The pics arent really that descriptive.

But I got it to work.





This is the unit.





This is the TDS (total desolved solids tester). This measures the TDS of the water comming in (the hardwater from ones tap) And compares it to the TDS of the water comming out. (the ro/di water).





The three filter comparments and the DI units and the membrane units

DO NOT PUT HOT WATER it will ruin your membrane.








Connecting the tubes. Basically you get a red tube, an orange one, yellow and blue.

Yellow attaches to the units yellow
Orange comes from your source goes through the red and enters the unit.
The unit has a white tube and you attach your blue tube to the white.





I didnt like the pin thing they supplied to tap into the water for source.

So I made a modification. Took a splitter and split the water going to my washing machine from the COLD water source.













Added a reducer to fit the size of the tube (orange)

So ran it, of course it leaked at every place possible...

1) But then I had to tighten the nozzles and

2) then add the white tape you use for plumbing drinking water tubes to wrap around the threads.

3)Ran it agian and tested for leaks.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 until no more leaks.

Used the TDS meter and got the following 143 going in and 0 comming out.

For every 1 good gallon of water your wasting like 4 gallons of tap water. . But thats what the guy said is normal...


Only allowed 8 pics so ya... But its up and working next step, DIY sump...
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:28 PM   #29
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I bought that same splitter for my washing machine. I had a problem of it always being on. The pressure caused it to leak since the water pressure was going to the RO/DI unit and not releasing from the unit. The washing machine water hookup at my house had a lot of pressure. It also affected my washing machine water pressure when my RO/DI unit was hooked up. I found a similar splitter that has 2 shut off knobs on it so I can control when I want water to flow to my RO/DI unit with the shut off knob on the splitter itself. I ran the RO/DI water line threw a wall into my garage and into a 32gallon trash can. So whenever I want RO/DI water I turn the knob on the splitter and come back 6-8hours later and my can is full then I turn the knob off. it Lasts quite a while until I have to fill it again.
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:39 PM   #30
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i guess if i have any pressure problems i can get a seperate shutoff valve on the left of the Y.

But i'll see.
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