what should my tests be at?

[Jonathan G.]

K i have my salinity at 1.023, my temp at 79F, and my pH is working its way up to 8.0, I have just set up my tank and it has been running for a week without anything in it. im just curious as to what my other tests should be at... like magnesium, phosphates, calcium, and whatever else that is important that i left out.

 

[mjvincent]

The pH of a marine tank is one of the most important parameters. Marine fish and invertebrates are especially sensitive to rapid changes in their pH, so keeping pH fluctuations within 0.2 each day is very critical. All marine creatures like a pH near 8.2, ranging from 8.0 to 8.4. The pH should never drop below 8.0.


Calcium levels should be 400 to 450 ppm Ca++. For more information about adding calcium. Some of the more easier to keep invertebrates, such as shrimps, also need regular supplements of iodine and other trace elements. Most foods will supply the necessary amounts of these elements. However, if you are using a protein skimmer, these elements will be stripped from the water and need to be replaced manually.


I found this at http://faq.thekrib.com/sbegin-setup.html

 

[lando]

At this point, you really only need to be concerned about ph, SG, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temp. Once your tank is cycled you can start worrying about Calcium and ALK. As far as what your tank should be at right now, it depends. What are you using to cycle the tank? Typically, in a cycle you will start out with an ammonia spike, as your ammonia falls you will see a nitrite spike, once those fall you will notice nitrates. You need to get the cycle stated with something. LR or using a cocktail shrimp from teh grocery store are tow commmon and effective methods.

 

[steve-s]

Actually, I woulnd't worry about the pH much either at this point. Really depends on what's in the tank that needs to be preserved. With a shrimp cycle, I can only assume this is essentially a "dead" start so nothing to really be concerned about.

In those terms, I would only worry about NH3, NO2 and NO3. Once the cycle is done do a very large (upto 50%) water change and then concern yourself with proper pH. The rest as lando stated doesn't need to be worried about much until you start adding scleractinains or other life that requires certain elements to be monitored.

Cheers
Steve

 

[seaham358]

What lando says about the cycle is important.
I would only test for amm, nitrite,nitrate for now... Phosphates is important also later because this can bring on algae issues.
What type of water are you using... What size tank, what are you using for filtration, do u have a skimmer??
Ph working its way up, what do you mean ??
Do you plan on having LR?
Dont worry about iodine, mag or any other elements at this time, not important in a new tank.
In a new tank with fresh salt water all your elements should be fine. Just worry about the cycle...
And remember to take things slow, nothing happens fast in this hobby except bad things.

 

[Jonathan G.]

well i tested my pH out of my faucet and it tested fine but after i got my tank setup the pH dropped to 7.7 so i've been adding seachem pH buffer to bring it up. i have a 75 gal tank, run a 150 gal pro clear aquatics wet/dry with the built in skimmer. also running a penguin 350 w/out biowheels to give the water more agitation. i do plan on cycling with live rock that has been cured and i'll will probably start off with either 40-50lbs live rock then add about 50-75lbs base rock from www.reeferrocks.com i also have 2 maxi jet 900's and a quiet one 3000 running my return.

 

[steve-s]

i do plan on cycling with live rock that has been cured and i'll will probably start off with either 40-50lbs live rock then add about 50-75lbs base rock from www.reeferrocks.com

I would actually suggest you do that the other way round if you can. Cycle with the base rock and then add the LR. It would be alot easier on you and there would be no need for water changes (dead start) and the chemistry would for the most part remain fairly stable.

Cheers
Steve