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Old 10-23-2012, 07:05 PM   #11
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I keep a bottle of prime around but i never use it. I will only use tap water as a last resort. I use prime for other things such as fish stress since it regenerates a slime coat or detoxifying high nitrate (which i never let happen). When/if you start grow some nuisance green hair algae, tap water will be like steroids for them.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaWoWee
I keep a bottle of prime around but i never use it. I will only use tap water as a last resort. I use prime for other things such as fish stress since it regenerates a slime coat or detoxifying high nitrate (which i never let happen). When/if you start grow some nuisance green hair algae, tap water will be like steroids for them.
We're not telling you that you have to. You can do whatever you want, you just may not be happy with the results. Maybe you can buy more jugs. i load up 5-5gal jugs in my car to get water every two weeks.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:17 PM   #13
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I bought some 5g paint buckets from lowes for $5 each. I use them every week to go buy water. I have 5 buckets, so my first full I had to go up to the store twice. But now I just get 3-4 buckets per week. That's less than $5/week for 3 buckets at 0.25/g. I also only use Prime for the stress coat actions of it.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:44 PM   #14
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The conditioner I'm thinking of using is called Supachlor, it's Aussie-made and is made with Australian tap water in mind, which is ideal for me. It's suppose to remove the usual stuff and also heavier metals. Link is below:

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/vi...083&cmd=VIDESC

Unfortunately things here down under are not as cheap as they are in the States. I wish I could have found 5g drums for $5. You would expect to pay around $30 or more just for one! I've also already bought my Red Sea aquarium salt so it's too late. I've been told to perhaps compromise and do 50/50 of conditioned tap water and natural sea water. I was also going to add Bio Culture to supplement the live rock in my tank a let things run for a few weeks before adding my first fish.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:21 AM   #15
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Really depends what your tap water is like to start with, you may be able to get your water chemistry from your supplier as I can in the UK. My water is very hard so depending on what fish I would like to keep RO water could be essential!
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:43 AM   #16
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Since RO/DI water is out of the question for you. I would invest in a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter which measures dissolved organic solids. The lower the number the better. Ive tested the local drinking water vending machine at 10ppm. My tap water measures at 450ppm. Big difference. Yours could be different or the same. Thats the reason i will never use tap.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:39 AM   #17
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Well I'm happy to say that I will now be filling up my whole tank with natural sea water after finding some cheap new storage drums nearby on eBay. I'm also going to add Aquasonic Bio Culture to boost the bacteria through the tank and in the filtration. So no need for any RO water now! Would there be anything else I need to add into the water to get the cycling going or will the live rock do the job?
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:57 AM   #18
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Yea! for great deals on eBay!! Live rock will add some ammonia when there's die-off, but it might not be enough ammonia to have a good strong cycle. You'll want ammonia to reach at least 4ppm, so you'll probably need an additional ammonia source. You could toss in a piece of raw shrimp or fish and lot it rot. It'll smell, but at least you'll be sure that when you add your fish they won't die because you had a weak cycle.
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:12 PM   #19
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Hooray for eBay! Thanks to that I can now steer well clear of tap water and I know I will be giving the cycling process a best possible start. Thanks for the tip about adding a dead shrimp and letting it decay. I might do that as I've heard that being done in many other places as well. So once ammonia reaches 4ppm does it gradually down by itself and then nitrite spikes up and goes back to 0, then nitrate will jump up so how do I know at what stage is the cycling complete and the first fish can be added?
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:00 PM   #20
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Cycling

Well u know when the cycling is complete when your ammonia and nitrite levels are at 0 ppm and your nitrate level is showing up usually a little high right after u finish cycling. A good level of nitrate is between 20 and 40 ppm. So a PWC is a good idea and you should be good to go.
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