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Old 01-21-2004, 11:21 PM   #1
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Your opinion

I know this has been brought up many times before however I'd like everyones opinion.

First off I filled my tank with about 250lb of PLAY SAND (silica base was all I had available I also have a 20 gallon refuge that I put 20lb of KENT BIO-SAND and a 175 MH 6500k with 1 24" actinic NO, Now the problem is I have a really bad algae problem It's completly covered the refuge so much that I can't see the back glass through the brown hairs coming off the rocks and it looks like it's suffocating my LR, However the algae is not growing on the sand only the rock, My phosphates are really high at 5.0 the tank has been up for about 4 weeks (Approx.) Nirite=0, ammonia=0, nitrate=20. Is the algae caused by the sand? or by the excess phosphates? I only have 4 NO bulbs on the main tank and there is very little algae, however I'm afraid If I turn on the 3 400watt MH the whole tank will look like the refuge and I'll have a heck of A mess if the algae doesn't go away

If you think the sand is whats doing it then I'll have to bite the bullet and pay $3 a pound for argonite sand and redo the tank However if there is someone who has used SILICA SAND before and the algae went away let me know.

Everyone opinion is very much appreciated and sorry if I've repeated other posts.

Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:28 PM   #2
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I used silica sand on my tank. I was full of diatoms for about 1.5 months and then went away and i havn't had any trouble with algae since. I think it just takes a while for the silica that is going to leech out to be used up.


HTH

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Old 01-21-2004, 11:30 PM   #3
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Do I need to do tons of water changes?
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Old 01-22-2004, 12:01 AM   #4
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Your hair algae is stemmed from your PO4 and your nitrates. I would turn the MH off and start water changes with RO/DI water. Manually remove as much of the algae as possible during each change. I personally don't think you need that much light on a fuge, unless your trying to keep SPS is your fuge, I wonder if the nature of the fuge might also contribute to an algae problem with that much light.
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Old 01-22-2004, 05:01 AM   #5
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Well I turned out my lights and I've got about a 25% water change mixing overnight, I'll try doing water changes all week and try my readings next week again.
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Old 01-24-2004, 09:41 PM   #6
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Well a couple of water changes later and my levels are WACKED
amonia 0
trite .2
trate .2
phos .4

And to top it all of my water is very clowdy?????

What next?
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Old 01-25-2004, 12:56 AM   #7
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my levels are WACKED
Your levels appear to be better save for the nitrite. Test again tomorrow and if it is still high...verify the test by taking a sample to the LFS. I would look to a couple of things, first the algae is dying off and that is elevating the nitrites or there are nitrites in your source water.
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Old 01-25-2004, 02:33 AM   #8
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I'm using RO water for my changes and just to make sure I tested it for trites + phosphate and turned up 0 on both so I'll test tommorow and take some water in and reply with the results

Oh about the clowdyness, is that normal?

Thanks again for your help!!!

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Old 01-25-2004, 08:14 AM   #9
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Hmmmm, Interesting post. Thought I'd give you some of my thoughts, of course, please only take these as 'thinking out loud.'

It seems (as mentioned by RR) that the peak in Nitrites is likely due to the algae dying off (or perhaps worse off, something else dying off as a result of being crowded out by the algae). None the less, it may also be related to your biological filteration not being able to adjust quickly enough to this new bio-load. This would then be directly related to the available surface area in the bio-filter. Clear that much of your LR helps with this but in spikes due to small-scale catastrophes you need something that can step in and adjust to handle the new load. My preference for this is an inexpensive Fluidized Bed filter. They are known throughout the aquaculture industry as being the quickest bio-filters to adjust to spikes and troughs in bio-loads.

The cloudy water (assuming it's not green cloudy) is a good indicator of this type of problem as it is likely due to a bacterial bloom. Not sure on this, just a thought.

Also - yep, water changes, water changes, water changes, RO water, RO water, RO water Simple, time-consuming, effective.

Tom
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Old 01-27-2004, 11:59 PM   #10
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Well My levels are now as follows

Amonia=0
Nitrite=0.1
Nitrate=20
Phos=1
Alk=300


I just added another 50lb of LR and tested

Amonia=0
Nitrite=.8
Nitrate=30
Phos=1
Alk=300
:|

Isn't the amonia supposed to go up as well?

Anyway just thought I'd keep you posted Thanks again for all the help.

This is by far the most helpfull forum out there.
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