100 questions

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Alaris

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
514
Location
Dallas, TX
My husband and I have decided on a FW 55/60g tank with mostly tetras. Nothing has been bought or set up. I am a newbie to fish keeping and my husband has had fish tanks growing up. I have been researching for about a month now (we're saving up) and we are going to be buying next month. I found this forum last night and decided to join.
Here are my questions:

1. Filter The LFS clerk told us that the mother of all filters is the Fluval cannister filter ( Fluval 305(#211) ). He said it is all the filter we would need and would only have to rinse out the pads/sponges? inside every once in a while. Is this true? What is the best filter?

2. Poo and Algae Eater We would like to have fish that eat the poo and algae. My understanding is that plecos are good for algae and catfish are good for poo. Is this true? Is there something better suited for my tank? I'm afraid of the pleco outgrowing my tank and we are not planning on getting a bigger tank for quite a few years.

3. Water Testing I have read here to spend the big $$$ on a chemical test kit. What all should the kit test for? How ofter should I test? I take it that I should also test my tap water for PWC. What levels are ideal/best/should be for my tank?

4. PWC
I also read here that the Python is bread. When I do a PWC do I need to add a de-chlorine chemical to my tank? And is the amount necessary on the instructions on the bottle? And how much % is a PWC?

5. NitrAtes Ammonia is produced through being alive, a bacteria eats it and produces nitrIte and another bacteria eats that and produces nitrAte. What happens to the nitrAte?

6. Sand and Gravel What are the differences (besides one is sand and the other is gravel)? Do they affect the tank differently? Can they be combined?

7. DIY Aquarium Decor I've read about the pvc tunnels and plan on making a few of these. I know that ceramic items (that are fully sealed in food-safe non-toxic glaze) are safe for the aquarium. I don't want the stuff sold at the LFS. I am wanting to make my own decor. Is there aquarium safe paint? or perhaps a sealant that I can put on a piece that I want to use as decor to make it fish/water safe?

8. Snails How bad are they for my fish environment (other than they multiply like weeds)? Is there a chemical or treatment that can prevent snails or prevent their eggs from living?

Besides what is mentioned above and lighting, heater, air pump, is there anything else I need or should consider for my tank?

Thanks for reading my q's. ^_^
 
1. That filter would be ok. Bacteria grows on the sponges, so you only want to rinse with tank water you remove during your partial water change (pwc). Hang on the back filters, like aqua clear and good too, and easier, IMO.

2. a pleco will get large. Most bottom feeders eat algae. You will have to supplement with algae wafers. As far as waste on the bottom of the tank, you remove that with gravel siphoning with the weekly water changes.

3. Get the liquid. You should get the ammonia, nitrite and nitrates tests at least. After the tank cycles, you want 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and nitrates at 40ppm or less.

4. PWC is a partial water change. The recommended weekly pwc is 20-30%. Any gravel vacuum is fine. Pythons are supposed to be easier since you hook them to a faucet. However, a Python is not necessary. You just need to purchase a gravel vaccum and a 5 gallon bucket. Siphon water into the bucket. Empty the bucket. Fill with fresh water. Add your decholrinator to the bucket of fresh water, about 10 drops per gallon is standard, some require less. Let sit for 5 mins, then add to your tank.

5. Nitrates stay in your tank. You dilute nitrates during your weekly water change, keeping it below 40ppm.

6. Some substrate (gravel, sand or plant soil) can change your ph or hardness. I personally stick with aquarium gravel so I don't have to worry about it.

8. I've never had snails in my tank. I think you are likely to get them if you a. purchase them and add them to your tank or 2. they attach themselves to a plant or decoration you add to the tank. Unless you are going to have plants, I don't think you have to worry about snails.
 
Read up on fishless cycling as since you have no fish its a good way to start. It requires an ammonia source since you dont have fish in the tank. This below just adds on to what Sum22 posted above.

1. Canister filters are personally preference mostly as far as brand(between a few good brands), canisters basically are more efficient than HOB filters. Canisters are recommended for larger tanks like 40G and above(people use on smaller also). Canisters dont normally have to be cleaned out as often and have larger places for filter media. HOB filters like AquaClear will also work good, these are the most recommended HOB filters by all. Normally you want at least 5x water turn over(gallons) per hour. Its impossible to over filter, but it is possible to have too much current for the type of fish you have/want, however not likely(except for betta's for example).

2. I dont think anything eats poo, except plants can use it. Its normally removed by gravel vac like Sum22 said. But bottom feeders will get some food that makes it to the bottom that other fish miss. Ghost shrimp are good at it and corry's, they may eat some algae also. Ottos eat algae also and are smaller, so you should have the tank running for awhile before you add them.
3. Get a test kit like API freshwater master test kit or similar. If you doing a fishless cycle you pretty much test daily for ammonia, then add enough ammonia to get back to 4-5ppm. Then you normally test ~ once a week then do a PWC.

4./5. PWC is at least 10% a week, this is what keeps your nitrates down. So after its cycled and you have fish, test the water a couple times then see how long it takes for the nitrates to build up to 20-40ppm, then change enough to keep it down. Then you should know how much/how often to do PWC's. Even then at least 10% is a good idea even if its not needed according to the nitrate.

6. It mostly personal preference, for live plants something other that gravel is normally better although many pants will grow in gravel. Also live plants will also "use" nitrates.

7. You can get silk fake plants from a craft store to use in your aquarium. Also craft stores normally have clay pots in different sizes that also can be used.

8. snails normally are hitchhikers on live plants, but occasionally can come with fish
 
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My two cents:


1. Filter - nothing to add.

2. Poo and Algae Eater - The thing with animals that 'clean' your tank is that they also excrete their own wastes etc so they don't actually replace regular tank maintenance but they might be able to help a bit and some are just cool.

3. Water Testing I use the API master kit. I think I found it in the low 20s. I was using the strips and they were horribly inaccurate. My kit tests for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, High pH and regular pH. I use strips for kH and gH as those values aren't as important in and of themselves, but a general idea of where your water sits is handy.

4. PWC
How often you do a PWC depends on many things including how heavy your fish load is, whether you have plants, etc. I've read on here that people recommend everything from 10-30% a week. Maybe closer to 10% every week or 20-30% every two weeks. I have a feeling I will be changing how ever much it takes me to sufficiently vacuum my gravel.

I have a large water jug of water I keep next to the tank for water that's going to be going into the tank. Water that's been sitting for x number of hours (24 or 48 can't remember) will naturally dechlorinate and also will be at room temperature (I do still use a dechlorinating product to lock up all the ammonia in my tap water). It's also water that I can test well before I might need it. One of my worst fears is that I will need to do a PWC in an emergency and add water that kills my fish because of a temperature difference, or I miscalculated on the dechlorinator, or the city mucks with the water changing it's pH without letting anyone know. It might be a bit harder with a 55-60 gallon tank to store enough stale water (I only have a 14 gallon so keeping 5 gallons of water next to the tank is easy).

5. NitrAtes - nothing to add

6. Sand and Gravel - you can use a lot of different substrates from sand to really small gravel to larger gravel bits, to pebbles and marbles. A lot of people use pool filter sand that you can find at a place like home depot because it won't change pH. Gravel is most common. I started out with regular aquarium gravel, but when I decided what fish I wanted I changed my mind and switched to sand because the particular fish I want dig in the substrate. Large gravel bits with sharp parts can hurt the fish and it's not their preferred choice. Marbles can cause problems because food and such can get wedged down deep. I did read somewhere though that breeders sometimes use marbles so the adult fish can't get to the fish eggs to eat them. I think I did things a bit arse backwards by buying tons of stuff for my tank, then establishing the tank, then figuring out what fish I wanted to put in the tank. I have pretty much changed my tank 100% in the past 2 months because I didn't have a single idea what I wanted or what would look good when I was initally purchasing stuff. I was thinking of mixing sand and gravel, but people stated that it would be more difficult to filter, and that the gravel would eventually sink to the bottom and the sand would end up on top (or maybe the other way around). Generally it didn't sound like mixing would work all that well. I did have some gravel left in my tank when I added the sand, so I have some bits. It adds a little variation for now.

7. DIY Aquarium Decor - don't know, but goodonya. I had no luck with DIY stuff, but then I never do. I'm not a DIY type of person :) I've seen pictures around of people's DIY tanks that look cool.


8. Snails - Ha! Some posts on this board got me absolutely PARANOID about getting snails in my tank! LOL. From what I understand, have plants-have snails. It's a fact of life. I did a bit of research, and they do also help keep the tank clean and algae under control (depending on the type) so it isn't 100% a total bad thing. The key is to keep the population under control. I asked this same question a bit ago and the responses suggested that using a copper treatment is an absolute NONO if you ever want the possibility of having invertebrates in your tank as it is impossible without a full tank break down to ever remove 100% of the copper again. Some fish eat snails like Clown or Yoyo Loaches so you could just plan on having a few of them in your nice big tank or remove them by hand when you see them.

My only other advise is to run everything you are told at an LFS through this forum before acting on it unless you know 100% for sure that they are giving you the right information. I was told by the Aquatic Specialist at one local PetStore that there was no such thing as ammonia consuming bacteria and that the only way to get rid of ammonia is to use chemical ammonia scrubbers. W.T.H!?!?!?! I was also doing a fishless cycle and every SINGLE LFS employee I spoke with looked at me like I was crazy, told me why fishless cycling doesn't work, and told me to just throw a few fish in my tank. Really, it was bad. I really had to stick to my guns, change the topic, and avoid LFSs for a while. One of those people is now my fish provider and guru, and yet he is still telling me to use chemical buffers etc. I'm serious about this: go to the store, let them tell you whatever, come home, post the scenario, and let the people here tell you what's what. Then make your decision. It's really helped me. :cool: Kept me from putting all sort of funky chemicals including copper in my tank.
 
Thanks all for answering my questions. I am more clear on these subjects now and I've found other threads with helpful answers as well.

I only have on more question:
How do you clean sand? Does it need to be cleaned?

Thanks! ^_^
 
Just lightly hover a gravel vac over it to suck the junk off of it, while not removing too much sand. Its also a good practice to stir it a little occasionally. I mean dont stir it before you vac then you'll suck a lot out with the vac. Sand may be "lite" at 1st and easily make a sand storm in your tank, after awhile it will become heavier when stuff grows on it like bacteria ect.., then it should settle pretty fast when disturbed.
 
and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again

That 50 lb bag didn't really net me much once I was done losing the odd sand grain in the washing process. I think the floor of my shower is still a bit sandy.
 
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