75 gallon build - Am I missing anything?

[FS7]

I'm setting up a new 75 gallon aquarium. I currently have a 35 hex and I've gone through 10 and 15 gallon aquariums as well. All of them used the same setup - undergravel filter with a mechanical hanging filter. I finally decided to build the big aquarium like I've wanted to for years.

I am currently finishing the stand (woodworking is one of my hobbies) and I have the tank ready to go (along with the light and the hood). I was considering my "standard" setup, but it looks like undergravel filters aren't exactly that common any longer. My options are as follows, and I want to make sure I'm not missing anything:

Filtration (some combination of...)
1) Two hanging filters, probably AquaClear 70
2) AquaTop CF-400UV
3) Undergravel with two powerheads

I'm currently leaning towards using only the canister.

Heater (either/or)
1) Two Aqueon heaters (probably 150W or 200W)
2) Fluval 300W Electronic

I'm currently leaning towards the Fluval, as it seems from what I've read like having it next to the spray bar is a great combination. It looks like one canister and one heater is more than adequate with the proper setup but I also want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.

I plan on putting in a group of angels, a group of clown loaches, and probably a few yellow labidos. I know the loaches and angels are compatible. The labidos in my experience have been the least aggressive of the Africans and in multiple tanks have never bothered any of my angels (even in a 10 gallon). That's all I had for now.

 

[Gboy66]

Hi FS7,

I suggest doing the canister filter, along with an AC110. It is worth it to have the extra filtration, and you wont regret it,

For the heaters, the digital sounds great. Get one of those, and maybe another smaller one as a backup. Once again, worth it

For the stock, it sounds pretty good. Clown loaches get very large though. However, it takes years for them to outgrow a 75. They need 125 as adults.

Angels--good!

Labs...ehh i wouldnt. Go for dwarf chichlids like rams, keyholes, and apistos. Much safer for your tank

 

[FS7]

Thanks. Adding the AC110 is easy enough - would you suggest it immediately at the start or would it be worthwhile to see if the canister can handle it?

Also, I've never had a problem not having enough heat. I have actually been very fortunate in that regard - all but two of my heaters have failed off, but two failed on. The water was probably in the 95 degree range, but the fish made it after an emergency water change. The old yellow labido seemed to take that the hardest, the angels didn't even care, the loaches were loaches, and the catfish apparently had no idea. The second time it happened, the loaches were breathing quite rapidly and the water was around 100. Another emergency water change and they were fine within hours. I like the idea of having smaller heaters that wouldn't be able to heat up the aquarium that quickly. The electronic seems very good, and heaters with working thermostats will shut off if one breaks. I guess having a second isn't a big deal.

Are labs typically aggressive? I've kept them in three different tanks (four, counting one of my ex-wife's) and they never bothered anything. This even included cherry barbs. I've had far more trouble with angels being aggressive (mostly towards other angels, which I guess is expected with pairs). I always like them and provided them good rock cover, which they took to quite well. Given them a good rock cave and they won't bother anybody.

As for the loaches, I got three initially back when I knew very little about fishkeeping. Two actually came with ich (again, I knew very little) and while they made it through that, one only lasted a few months after that. The other two have been best buds for the last 10 years and have spent their entire lives in the 35 hex. I can move them if it's best, but will they start growing again at this age? They're only about 4 inches now and have been for at least 8 years.

 

[phoenixkiller]

I am sure that a canister can handle the tank for quite a while, so purchase that first. The AquaClear 110 is a very high quality secondary or even primary filter for any tank. but hey, that's just my opinion...

 

[Mr.Pleco]

I'm setting up a new 75 gallon aquarium. I currently have a 35 hex and I've gone through 10 and 15 gallon aquariums as well. All of them used the same setup - undergravel filter with a mechanical hanging filter. I finally decided to build the big aquarium like I've wanted to for years.

I am currently finishing the stand (woodworking is one of my hobbies) and I have the tank ready to go (along with the light and the hood). I was considering my "standard" setup, but it looks like undergravel filters aren't exactly that common any longer. My options are as follows, and I want to make sure I'm not missing anything:

Filtration (some combination of...)
1) Two hanging filters, probably AquaClear 70
2) AquaTop CF-400UV
3) Undergravel with two powerheads

I'm currently leaning towards using only the canister.

Heater (either/or)
1) Two Aqueon heaters (probably 150W or 200W)
2) Fluval 300W Electronic

I'm currently leaning towards the Fluval, as it seems from what I've read like having it next to the spray bar is a great combination. It looks like one canister and one heater is more than adequate with the proper setup but I also want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.

I plan on putting in a group of angels, a group of clown loaches, and probably a few yellow labidos. I know the loaches and angels are compatible. The labidos in my experience have been the least aggressive of the Africans and in multiple tanks have never bothered any of my angels (even in a 10 gallon). That's all I had for now.

As far as filtration goes I'd probably go with 110's or even a Aquaclear and a canister. I had 2 Top Fin 60's on my 55g lab/maingano's before one was killed by sand. I bought a Fluval 405 and then just got a Aquaclear 70 (never had one and wanted to try them out). I'm a big fan in overfiltration.
I saw the 110's were like $80 or 90 at PetSmart and went online to Amazon and the 110 was cheaper and the 70 was about $35. Just a heads up...might want to buy your stuff online to save. I'll probably move the can over to my 150 and be done with filtration on that tank.

2 Aquaclear 70's would run about $70
2 110's $120
Fluval 405 $150
Fluval 406 $ $160

Don't think you can go wrong any way.

 

[Gboy66]

Thanks. Adding the AC110 is easy enough - would you suggest it immediately at the start or would it be worthwhile to see if the canister can handle it?

Also, I've never had a problem not having enough heat. I have actually been very fortunate in that regard - all but two of my heaters have failed off, but two failed on. The water was probably in the 95 degree range, but the fish made it after an emergency water change. The old yellow labido seemed to take that the hardest, the angels didn't even care, the loaches were loaches, and the catfish apparently had no idea. The second time it happened, the loaches were breathing quite rapidly and the water was around 100. Another emergency water change and they were fine within hours. I like the idea of having smaller heaters that wouldn't be able to heat up the aquarium that quickly. The electronic seems very good, and heaters with working thermostats will shut off if one breaks. I guess having a second isn't a big deal.

Are labs typically aggressive? I've kept them in three different tanks (four, counting one of my ex-wife's) and they never bothered anything. This even included cherry barbs. I've had far more trouble with angels being aggressive (mostly towards other angels, which I guess is expected with pairs). I always like them and provided them good rock cover, which they took to quite well. Given them a good rock cave and they won't bother anybody.

As for the loaches, I got three initially back when I knew very little about fishkeeping. Two actually came with ich (again, I knew very little) and while they made it through that, one only lasted a few months after that. The other two have been best buds for the last 10 years and have spent their entire lives in the 35 hex. I can move them if it's best, but will they start growing again at this age? They're only about 4 inches now and have been for at least 8 years.

I suggest going at it right away. Youll be fine with the cannister, but again, over filtration is awesome! You can have more fish! Lol.

Yeah, i suggest multiple heaters, so if one blows you still have a decent temp.

Labs are agressive by nature. They are always kept in chichlid tanks, and never in communities. I wouldnt suggest it. Angels to best in groups of 1, a pair, or 5+. that way there i less to no agression.

The loaches are probably stunted if they havent grown in 8 years and are clowns...

 

[FS7]

Getting ready to set up. I have all of the equipment. I bought a few pieces of driftwood (my existing loaches love theirs) and those are soaking in my spare tub to minimize tank discoloration. The floor is prepped and the stand is ready to go in as soon as the carpet dries. All of the tank equipment is ready and the decorations are ready too. I just replaced the existing outlet with a GFCI for protection. I'm hopeful it won't trip, but I will leave some room to get back there anyway.

I bought gravel from Home Depot after seeing how much "aquarium" gravel costs. I bought two different bags of pea gravel - one Sakrete and one Vigoro. I thought the Vigoro was a nice orange-red color, but as it turns out that was just the sand. I rinsed both bags thoroughly with a steel colander and the gravel is actually very similar - both small river rock with the Sakrete being slightly larger. The Sakrete was also much cleaner to start with, though both bags had nothing but sand in them (no soil or anything). The gravel is ready to go in tomorrow, assuming I can safely get the tank on top of the stand.

Any last bits of advice? I'm hopeful I haven't done anything terribly wrong yet. The fish won't go in for at least two weeks after the tank is set up and running.

 

[jlk]

Have you decided on how your going to cycle this tank? Letting the tank run for 2wks wont cycle it- you will need to add an ammonia source. Heres the link for setting up a fw aquarium- it has links for both fishless & fish-in cycling.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html

 

[FS7]

Have you decided on how your going to cycle this tank? Letting the tank run for 2wks wont cycle it- you will need to add an ammonia source. Heres the link for setting up a fw aquarium- it has links for both fishless & fish-in cycling.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html

My plan was to replace the carbon portion of my canister filter, at least initially, with a used filter pad from my established tank. The bacteria colony is solid in my 35, and I plan to seed it with a well-used filter cartridge. Those two weeks were to establish the new tank (after an initial day to check temperature and such). I am also keeping ceramic rings in the established tank to get them ready.

 

[Zaedon]

Sounds like you have a good plan. I use two Marineland c-360 canisters on my 75g African cichlid tank. Keeps it nice and clean. I use custom spray bars to create good water movement with out overpowering the fish. You can a guide on how I made it in the dyi section. If you are going to have live plants make sure you make sure your lights are going to be up to the task.

 

[jlk]

My plan was to replace the carbon portion of my canister filter, at least initially, with a used filter pad from my established tank. The bacteria colony is solid in my 35, and I plan to seed it with a well-used filter cartridge. Those two weeks were to establish the new tank (after an initial day to check temperature and such). I am also keeping ceramic rings in the established tank to get them ready.

Moving your cycled media from your 35g to the new tank is a smart move! But, you will need to either move your fish the same day or you will need to add ammonia for the 2wks or your bb will starve. Your tank wont establish itself without a source of ammonia.

 

[FS7]

Moving your cycled media from your 35g to the new tank is a smart move! But, you will need to either move your fish the same day or you will need to add ammonia for the 2wks or your bb will starve. Your tank wont establish itself without a source of ammonia.

That part I wasn't sure of. I was planning on adding fish food to the tank since the fish I have are staying where they are now. That tank has a lot of bacteria sources (a permanent filter pad, a large piece of driftwood, and the thick gravel on top of the undergravel filter) so I am not concerned about disturbing the balance by removing the filter cartridge. Do you think the decaying fish food will be enough of a source of ammonia in the new tank? I can easily get some pure ammonia to use if that is significantly better.

 

[jlk]

Opt for the pure ammonia if you are able to find some. Fish food needs to decompose first to provide a source of amm, it cant be accurately 'dosed', and can create quite mess because you will need quite a bit. It doesnt mean fish food wont work (it will) but pure amm is a cleaner & more accurate option.

 

[FS7]

So I've been cycling for a month now. I started with fish food for ammonia - I use crisps mainly and I "strain" my canister occasionally to get rid of the small pieces. I did this to load up the tank. After a few days, ammonia shot up to about 4-5 PPM. It stayed there for a week, which I did not expect because the tank was seeded with filter media from a well-established tank. Well, that's fine. I started Seachem Stability after week one to help speed things along (probably March 7th). After a week of that, the nitrites spiked and I've been there ever since.

I have been adding clear ammonia every day now for two weeks. Every day the 20 mL of clear ammonia is being consumed with no apparent change in nitrites. Just in case my ammonia is too high for some reason, I checked nitrates also and I have next to none (5 PPM or less). I have read that the nitrite spike can last this long, but should I try anything else? I'm never touching Stability again (waste of money without question), but if there is something else that might work I'm willing to try it. I'm getting sick of looking at a dark red (driftwood tannins) empty aquarium.

 

[jlk]

How your ph doing? You should be checking it daily for any changes. With your nitrites being this high for a couple of weeks, it means its time for a big water change (as close to 100% as you can get). Make sure you temperature match & properly condition the water. Retest your nitrites after an hr & see how they look. If they are really crazy high, there may be no change after the water change. We want to re-establish your buffers & bring your nitrites down to a readable level (2ppm or less). After that, skip the ammonia for the next day or two & let us know if the nitrite level starts to drop on its own & we can go from there.