Advice?

[Judge92]

So I have a 29 gallon tank that has been set up for a few weeks already. I never really thought about what TYPE of fish I wanted and only really thought "Community fish". It was a good start I think. I didn't think about what fish would go well with others and which would be the best to have overall. And how big fish grow!

I did start with two mollies and two platies so I think that was a good decision.

Now I have added 3 guppies and a ruby shark. I'm not really sure what's going to happen or if getting the ruby shark was the best idea. I've researched that it can grow up to 6 inches and I'm not sure if that is good.

Overall, I just want some advice as to what I should do, if I should change anything or if everything is fine as it is.

 

[WhiteDevil]

Its gonna get bigger maybe not 6" but within two inches of that, I dont think the ruby shark will be around long, they get aggressive and will cause stress death if not injury deaths when they throw a temper tantrum.

 

[Deep Seven]

Hold off on any new fish for now. Do you know what your water parameters are? PH, amonia, nitrites and nitrates? Until you're sure of all those numbers it's unclear wether you've cycled and adding more fish risks losing everything.

A ruby shark can grow up to 6 inches as you said, and needs a 55g tank to be happy as an adult. So I'd return it, locate a good home to sell it to when it gets bigger or plan to upgrade to a 55g+ tank.

 

[Judge92]

I was under the impression that they were community fish and not that aggressive. Only to smaller fish like neon tetras and such.

Why do they need a 55g if they only grow to 6 inches? As for the water parameters, I only got them tested in store I don't actually know any of the numbers.

EDIT: And so far the ruby shark seems very calm and not very aggressive at all.

 

[Crepe]

Certain fish need disproportionately larger aquariums as they may claim large areas of territory, be active swimmers, belligerent, or heavy waste producers among other things.

 

[Judge92]

So I should get the ruby shark back to the store?

 

[Crepe]

If it is possible, yes.

 

[Judge92]

Any suggestions on what to replace him with? Fish that would go well with my current setup and will thrive in the 29 gallon tank.

 

[kaiofcanada]

I guess first off...setting up a tank versus cycling a tank are two different things. Did you cycle your tank? (use an ammonia source to feed the nitrogen cycle, so that you can establish beneficial bacteria that will help stabilize your tank and neutralize waste).

If you just set it up with water and such, but didn't cycle, you should consider taking all of this fish back with the shark and read about fishless cycling.

Ammonia and its derivatives are toxic to fish. You will surely experience "new tank syndrome" ...which is a result of this poisoning. It will last 3 week to several months. It can be frustrated for you and deadly to your fish.

Please post your parameters before getting any more fish. If cycled, what filter, pH, water temp and so forth.

 

[BigJim]

+1 for kaiofcanada. I would definitely make sure your tank is cycled before adding any more fish.

Guppies, platies, and mollies in a 29g!? I sure hope they're not breeding pairs, otherwise you'll have more fish than you know what to do with in a few months.

 

[Judge92]

I've put in the chemicals I was told I should put in. A bacteria "kick-start" to the ecosystem and a water conditioner. I have had the water tested in store a few times as I've added fish. I guess you could say it's been cycled just not the perfect way over a few weeks. Instead I'd say it was fishless for about a week and a half to two weeks.

Temperature sits around 78F, I don't know the parameters because I don't have a testing kit. The filter is a Tetra Whisper EX30.

I've replaced the ruby shark with a small school of 3 blood-fin tetras.

"Guppies, platies, and mollies in a 29g!?" Is that a bad thing? Guppies are only male, I made the very very smart(not) decision of getting a male and female of the platies and mollies. The Molly gave birth the first day in the tank. I've figured they wouldn't last.

 

[BigJim]

First, I would highly recommend picking up the API Freshwater Master test kit. It'll tell you a lot about what's going on in your tank, especially when it's cycling like it is now.

I definitely disagree that the tank has been cycled. The water conditioner is a good idea, but I'm skeptical of cycling products. It may help, but it definitely won't cycle the tank immediately. Get that test kit and test daily. You'll probably have to do daily partial water changes (PWCs) until you see no ammonia or nitrites in the tank. In the meantime, don't add any more fish.

Livebearers will tank over the tank. I started with two pairs of guppies and now I have a tank full of them. I'm actually in the process of trying to get rid of some on Craigslist because the tank is getting too crowded, even with the adults eating a lot of the fry.

 

[Judge92]

Not that I disagree with anything anyone is saying, but how can you say that it isn't right when it's been tested numerous times as I've added fish?

Sorry, I just want actual advice instead of saying "No, it hasn't been cycled."

 

[mommytron]

who tested the water? what were the results when it was tested? you can't really be sure the tank has gone through a cycle from a single test, either. if you brought a sample to the store and they used test strips, i would trust it even less. strips are known to be inaccurate. bring it to a place that uses a liquid test kit, or better yet, pick up your own at walmart.com for around $18. not only is it needed to watch the cycle, but to maintain the health of your fish for the long run. if you truly are in a cycle, they will be exposed to ammonia and nitrite, and having a liquid test kit is a sure way to know where those levels are, so you can keep them below .25ppm by means of PWCs (partial water changes.)

you can be sure your tank is cycled if it converts ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate (so there are no readable levels of ammonia and nitrite, and there IS a readable level of nitrate) within 12-24 hrs.

 

[BigJim]

Are you familiar with the nitrification cycle that makes your aquarium work?

Basically, your fish produce ammonia as waste. This ammonia is toxic to your fish in small concentrations. One type of bacteria converts the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is also toxic to your fish in small concentrations. A second type of bacteria converts the nitrite to nitrate. Nitrate is only toxic to your fish in much larger concentrations than ammonia and nitrite.

When you start up a tank, there are none of these beneficial bacteria in the tank. It takes some time to build up the population. This time is called the cycle. You'll see your ammonia levels rise, then your nitrite levels, then finally your nitrate levels. If you cycle with fish, your water parameters can reach toxic levels very quickly if you don't keep up with the water changes. Many times, this means you'll be changing out 25% of your water ever day. Some have to do it twice a day. You have to keep up the frequent water changes until you don't see any ammonia or nitrite levels in the tank. When you only see nitrates, your tank is cycled.

Unfortunately, the cycling process usually takes several weeks. Cycling with fish usually takes even longer. If your tank has only been set up for a month or two, I'd bet you're in mid-cycle. This is why you need the test kit. A liquid reagent test kit will be much more accurate than test strips. It's also cheaper per test than the strips. I've seen LFSs test water with a strip and set the strip down on the grubby counter while they wait. I'm much more confident with my test results at home.

We're not trying to beat you down here. Just trying to get you off on the right foot.

 

[Judge92]

Alright, thank you for that detailed explanation I just went out and got a liquid test kit today and will test the water later I will let you know.

thank you very much =)

 

[Judge92]

Here are the results.

PH - 7.0
Ammonia - Close to 0. It was very clear but MAY have had a slight tinge to it. I would say it was clear though.
Nitrite - <0.1
Nitrate - was about5
Temperature - 77.5F

good? bad?

 

[Deep Seven]

Depends when you did your last PWC, and what effect whatever conditioners you added have on the results, but those numbers look good. You seem to have a stable tank.

I'd say your PH was a little bit low, I think 7.4-7.8 is recommended but I'll leave someone more qualified to comment on that. If you adjust your PH do it very slowly over time. Fish don't like fluctuating PH.

 

[Judge92]

I haven't done a PWC in this tank yet since I needed it to establish.

 

[Deep Seven]

Then except for the slightly low PH it looks like your tank is doing well. As long as ammonia and nitrites stay at or near zero, then just watch nitrates and do PWCs as necessary or on schedual.

Desired Level
In nature nitrates remain very low, generally well below 5 ppm. In freshwater aquariums nitrates should be kept below 50 pm at all times, preferably below 25 ppm. If you are breeding fish, or are battling algae growth, keep nitrates below 10 ppm.