Beginners book?

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jamhay

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
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2
I am planning on starting my first tank the week after Thanksgiving. Can anyone recommend a good freshwater book for a beginner? I plan on getting a 50-55 gallon and will be seeking equipment and stocking recommendations from the board shortly.
 
freshwater tanks for dummies. I am not being sarcastic it is actually a very informational 300 page book on species filtration cycling and other details.
 
There is a great book as well called
The encyclopedia of aquarium and pond fish by David Alderton
It has a category for freshwater, saltwater, and pond fish, and there is an introduction on how to take care of each mentioning staring the tank or pond, cycling the tank or pond, feeding and everything else you can think of. It even tells you each fishes temperament and range of living conditions.
It is by far my favorite aquarium book and I highly recommend it.
 
I found that most of the books I've seen aren't very helpful at all. Most are too old to include cycling information. In an effort to combat this, I decided to write a few short paragraphs a while ago about certain aspects of the aquarium hobby. They aren't done, so I'll include the titles of the paragraphs that I haven't started (they'll be blank) so you know what else you need to know. But this certainly isn't all you need.

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A Beginners Guide to Freshwater Aquariums

Introduction to Aquariums
An aquarium can be a peaceful and relaxing piece of furniture in any home. Unlike other pets, fish can be kept by anyone; no matter the experience level, space, or available time. Aquariums have been described as “living furniture,” and certainly live up to that name. A lively, colorful aquarium can be a perfect fit in any home, and can be easily kept while being enjoyed by all. Even the “boring” parts of fishkeeping, like maintaining the aquarium, are an educational experience for both children and adults. This book will guide you on your journey from a fishkeeping novice, to the ultimate aquarist.

Section One: Water
A fish’s water is like our air. It is their source of oxygen, and without it they cannot live. Since water is so important to fish, it is vital for you as an aquarist to know about the water in your tank. Fish need certain levels of chemicals in the water they swim in, and if these aren’t at the right level, then the fish can get very sick and die. There are many different important aspects of water, and they are all essential to know about. Because of this, it is a good idea to invest in a good test kit, preferably liquid, not test strips. Also, you should test your tap water for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and Hardness. I personally recommend the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, it is well priced and very accurate. Testing your water is very important, and should be done every day when cycling or just after adding fish, and at least once a week in any other situation.

Gas Exchange
Just because fish live in water doesn’t mean they don’t breath. A fish gets its oxygen from the oxygen absorbed in the water. Oxygen gets into the water in many ways; through the water’s surface, through surface agitation, and through photosynthesis. Oxygen is continuously dissolving into the water through the water’s surface, however this happens more slowly at higher temperatures. Surface agitation, also known as “aeration”, speeds up this process. There are three main ways to increase agitation: from water flow produced by a filter (hang-on-back filters are best for this, but canister filters also provide good surface agitation), from a powerhead, or from an air stone.
Carbon dioxide is also present in an aquarium. It is used by plants during photosynthesis, but also enters and leaves at the surface of the aquarium, the same place oxygen enters. Fish and bacteria also produce carbon dioxide when they respire.
Photosynthesis is a process that plants use to make food. Plants use water, sunlight, and carbon dioxide for this process, and create many byproducts including oxygen. However, since plants need light for photosynthesis, it only occurs during the day.

Ammonia
Ammonia is one of the many chemicals you need to know about in your fish tank. It is produced by decaying matter, such as dead plant parts, leftover food, or fish waste. Ammonia should never be allowed to rise above .5 ppm (parts per million), but lower is better. If ammonia gets too high it will suffocate the fish, by collapsing the fish’s gill filaments. A fish affected by high ammonia levels might have trouble swimming, discolored gills, or, most commonly, start gulping for air at the top of the tank. If this happens, a water change of about 30 - 50% is necessary, but increasing the surface aeration would also be beneficial. High ammonia levels are caused by overcrowding, overfeeding, lack of gravel vacuuming or lack of water changes.

Nitrite

Nitrate

pH
The pH level of water is how acidic it is. The pH scale does not have a unit, and goes from 1-14, one being very acidic, and 14 being very basic (or alkaline). Fish generally prefer pH between 6 and 8, but certain fish have certain recommended pH levels, and it is best to research your fish before buying.

Hardness
The term “Hardness, refers to the amount of minerals or metals in the water. (Not finished)

Cycling
“Cycling” is the term used by aquarists for the process of building up beneficial bacteria in the filter, gravel, and on the decorations. This is one of the most complicated and overlooked steps to fishkeeping. Like mentioned, fish produce ammonia in their waste and through uneaten, decaying, food at the bottom of the tank. Ammonia is highly toxic for fish, so of course, it must be removed. Beneficial bacteria from the Nitrosomonas genus oxidize Ammonia into the still-toxic Nitrite. Then, bacteria from the Nitrobacter genus oxidize Nitrite into Nitrate. Fish are far more tolerant of Nitrate than they are of Nitrite or Ammonia. Nitrate is used by plants sort of like a fertilizer, but it is also removed through water changes.
The easiest way to “cycle” a tank is called “fishless cycling”. In fishless cycling, a source of ammonia, usually pure ammonia, is added into the tank to increase the ammonia level to 4 ppm. An important thing to note is that the bacteria needed to cycle a tank are already in the air around you, but they do not live in the tank unless they have source of food, ammonia. Once the Nitrosomonas turn some of the Ammonia into Nitrite (the food of the Nitrobacter genus), the Nitrobacter will come to eat the Nitrite. Eventually, after you keep dosing ammonia up to 4 ppm, there will be a buildup of Nitrate, the byproduct of the Nitrobacter. At this point a water change is necessary to reduce nitrates below 20 ppm, and then you are ready to add fish. Make sure you test the water every day with a good test kit. Besides testing for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate, test for pH level as well. Compare the pH of your tank with the pH of your tap water. If the pH gets much higher or lower, do a water change to get it back to a correct range, and redose ammonia if necessary.
Since cycling is one of the most important steps in setting up your fish tank, it is vital that you understand it correctly. So, as a review, cycling is the process by which you introduce bacteria into your tank. These bacteria convert Ammonia into Nitrite, and Nitrite into Nitrate. The way you cycle is by adding 4 ppm of Ammonia, and wait until the Ammonia goes back below 1 ppm to dose it back up to 4 ppm. Repeat this step until the following happens (this should take about a month): the Ammonia should go from 4 ppm to 0 in 24 hours, the Nitrite should be continuously at 0, and the Nitrate should be around 50 ppm (less is fine, but to be sure the cycle is done getting to at least 50 is recommended). Once you reach this, stop dosing ammonia, and do water changes until Nitrate is lower than 20 ppm, and Ammonia and Nitrite are at zero, and then add fish.

Filtration
There are three main types of filtration: chemical, mechanical, and biological, all of which are essential to an aquarium. A standard, hang-on-back filter (also known as a power filter) is the most commonly used filter, but you can also use canister filters, under-gravel filters, internal filters, wet-dry filters, or pretty much any kind of standard aquarium filter. Some people make their own filters, however this is not recommended because filters are one of the most important parts of an aquarium.

Mechanical Filtration
Mechanical filtration is the simplest kind of filtration, it simply removes waste particles and debris from the aquarium, trapping them in the filter media where they are broken down by beneficial bacteria. This keeps the water clean, although if the water is not clean it may not be because a lack of filtration.

Chemical

Biological


Section : Planning
The first step in setting up an aquarium is planning. Every aspect of fishkeeping requires forethought and precision. Never make a rash or random decision, always plan out what you are going to do before you do it. The biggest mistake a new aquarist can make is making an irrational decision. One of my favorite sayings is “nothing good in this hobby comes quickly,” because, well, nothing does.

Tank Placement
A fish tank cannot go just anywhere; there are specific places where a fish tank can and cannot go. For example, an aquarium should never be placed in direct sunlight, in a busy hallway, or near a source of heat (like a radiator or stove). The best place to put your tank is in a corner, or commonly visited room, without much foot traffic. Fish can get easily stressed if people are constantly walking by, and feel safest in a corner. However, you want your fish tank to be seen by many, so take that into consideration when choosing the place where your fish tank will go. Remember, water weighs about 8.3 pounds per gallon, so even a small, 20 gallon tank weighs well over 175 pounds when full of water, substrate, and decorations.

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But I've found that if you have a question, the best thing to do is spend 30 minutes researching it, and then ask it on here.

Hope this helps!
 
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