Can someone read my water results?

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Brookelynnb

Aquarium Advice Regular
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Jan 13, 2013
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I'm not the best at reading the water results, and differentiating in between the ranges.

Everything looks good to me, except the ammonia. Now it is a goldfish tank that is probably a little fuller than it needs to be.. By like maybe a goldfish. But are the results okay??

pH 7.4 (maybe a little yellower than the pic)
NH4+ .25ppm (the pic looks greener but I'm pretty sure it's .25ppm.
NO2- 0ppm
NO3- 0ppm
 

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I read them the same as you do if the ammonia is greener is say at least .25-.5 sometimes I read them as imbetween lol! Good luck
 
I know it's supposed to be 0ppm. What should I do to lower it? I've done 25% water changes the past 2 days, trying to help my new tank syndrome. I figured that would work in lowering it??
 
Have you tested with the regular ph test? 7.4 is the low limit for the high test which means your ph may be 7.4 or it may be any number lower than 7.4.
 
Since I have a goldfish tank, it said to use the high range. I haven't tried the regular though.

I did add a 7.0pH fizz tab to it yesterday, so it may be on the low end.
 
Check with the regular ph test and do not add anymore ph chemicals. Goldfish do best in hard, high ph water. I suspect your actual ph may be much lower than 7.4 and this could be cause for concern.
 
Did the regular pH drops, and it appears to be 7.6. What's the verdict now?
 

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A blue result just indicates your ph is higher than 7.2. The combined results of both tests means your ph is in the 7.3-7.4 range.
 
A blue result just indicates your ph is higher than 7.2. The combined results of both tests means your ph is in the 7.3-7.4 range.

Really? I thought if it was the 7.6 color, you did the high ph test and thats your ph? Am I wrong?
 
Really? I thought if it was the 7.6 color, you did the high ph test and thats your ph? Am I wrong?

Not exactly. Ph levels that fall in the mid 7 range need to be determined by combining the results from both the high and regular test. The regular ph test jumps from a reading of 7.2 (blue green) up to 7.6 (blue) so anything that is above a 7.2 reading will show up as 'blue' (ie, 7.3 up to 8++). The high test has a low limit of 7.4 which means a 7.4 reading may be 7.4 or it may be any number below 7.4. So, as in Brook's case, if your ph falls right in the middle, you need to look at the results from both tests to figure out your ph. Worth noting that ph is rarely a concern unless your are keeping sensitive, difficult fish, a heavy bioload tank or running high tech planted or sw tank.

Brook, your ph is fine as it stands but do keep an eye on it. If you notice it starting to drop regularly, you may need to buffer your KH up a bit with some crushed coral or aragonite to help keep things stable. With messy, high bioload fish, your good bacteria have to work in overdrive to keep a tank stable and they need lots of KH to process ammonia properly. As they use up KH, ph becomes unstable and can drop. A hefty wc schedule is usually sufficient to help keep carbonate and mineral levels stable in a high bioload tank.

If you have a decent lfs (not a chain that uses strips), it would be worthwhile to have your tap KH and GH tested with liquid tests so you have a reference point to work from in case you need the info in the future. :)
 
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