cloudy water help!

[Stacie3972]

Ok I've got a 50 gallon Freshwater tank had it started up before was fine in two weeks no cloudy no nothing now I reset it up and was reading on here about doing weekly water changes which I have never done before so I thought I would give it a try and it's cloudy constantly! Please tell me what I am doing wrong

 

[blert]

What color cloudy?
Type of substrate?
Set up for how long?

 

[shellyx]

Could be a bacteria bloom with the tank being new, it will just clear up itself

 

[Stacie3972]

It's a white cloudy tank has been up almost a month and aquarium sand for the sub. Woke up this morning and it's as still as bad as yesterday. Can someone tell me exactly how to do these weekly water changes? I got a python clean and fill to use and it makes doing them super easy and I love taking care of my tank I'm just not sure on how much and how often? I want to do this right so my fish grow big and healthy and happy!

 

[shellieca]

Are you doing a really good vacuum when changing the water? The only time I've had cloudy water after I was done cycling was when I wasn't vacuuming as well as I should've been. I have gravel substrate & I wasn't getting all the way down into the gravel like I needed to. Once I started doing that, the cloudy water went away & I've had no problems since. Most of us change around 50% of the water each week.

 

[Stacie3972]

How is the best way to vacuum sand? I've just been going over the top and picking up loose food and waste I figured if I pushed the purpose into the sand it would suck up all my sand thanks for all the help I really want to just do this right and have a beautiful tank

 

[shellieca]

I don't have sand so I'm not familiar with the best way to do a really good cleaning of it. i would think if you're getting a lot of detris off the top then you're doing a good vacuum. I know some people stir up the water to get stuff off the top of the the sand floating then they suck it up.

 

[blert]

It is likely a bacterial bloom. Not a big deal, it will go away on its own. It is common in new setups.
Do you have fish in and what kind and amount?
If so, are you monitoring the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels daily?
What are your current toxin levels?
How much are you feeding?

Bacterial blooms in the water column are usually caused by excess nutrients. No amount of water changes is going to help, you need to wait it out. Do your weekly PWCs including thorough vacuuming. Don't feed as much (every couple of days for now). If you are still "cycling" (ammonia and nitrite present) then let your testing tell you when you need to do an extra PWC.

 

[Stacie3972]

I have a golden severum a chocolate cichlid 2 parrots and 4 gromies and two golbys we feed everyday blood worms and dried shrimp and flakes they eat it all everyday. I don't have a test kit yet I'm going to get one this afternoon what is the best kind to get I've never used one? And am I over feeding? I know I'm running yall crazy with all the questions but since finding this site I feel like everything I've ever done has been wrong so I'm trying to relearn thank you all for the help

 

[Stacie3972]

So when the ammonia get high water change?

 

[blert]

I have a golden severum a chocolate cichlid 2 parrots and 4 gromies and two golbys we feed everyday blood worms and dried shrimp and flakes they eat it all everyday. I don't have a test kit yet I'm going to get one this afternoon what is the best kind to get I've never used one? And am I over feeding? I know I'm running yall crazy with all the questions but since finding this site I feel like everything I've ever done has been wrong so I'm trying to relearn thank you all for the help

So when the ammonia get high water change?

That is a lot of fish for a fish-in "cycle". Get an API Master Test Kit, it has all you need at a low price and is good for many many tests.
Until you get a test kit I would be doing daily 50% PWCs so the ammonia level does not kill your fish. After you get the kit then test daily and let your test tell you when and how much water to change. Ammonia is toxic at different levels determined by pH and temperature but, without getting too technical, most try to keep it below 0.25-0.50ppm during a fish-in "cycle". The are great threads in the 'Getting Started' stickies section and I'm sure someone will be along shortly with direct links.

Yes, IMO you are feeding way too much. Fish need much less than you would think. Feed less and mix it up... One type a day and skip one day. Blood worms and shrimp are not all that nutritious, and they can trash your water quality, so I would only feed those once a week as treats. There are good pellets available that your fish will enjoy too.

 

[Stacie3972]

Just got a kit and did a test ammonia is 4.0 did a 50 percent water change yesterday. Water change again? Nitrate is 0.

 

[blert]

Just got a kit and did a test ammonia is 4.0 did a 50 percent water change yesterday. Water change again? Nitrate is 0.

Yes. You need that ammonia level down. Aim for 0.25 at most.
Test your source water for ammonia, if it has any you will not be able to get it below that level.
If your source water has zero ammonia then it will take TWO 75% PWCs to reach 0.25ppm from 4.0ppm.

 

[Stacie3972]

So do one 75 PCW today and one tomorrow? And I will test my source. In the case that my source water has high ammonia how do I get the source water ammonia down?

 

[blert]

So do one 75 PCW today and one tomorrow? And I will test my source. In the case that my source water has high ammonia how do I get the source water ammonia down?

Nope. One 75% now and another in about an hour. That ammonia needs to come down now. Make sure to get the temperatures close. And don't feed today.

There's is no way to get the ammonia down in your tap water, if you have any, without an RO filter. The best you can do is treat properly with Prime (or similar) for it will temporarily detox the ammonia, use a 2x dose for now to be safe.

 

[Stacie3972]

Just tested my house water and the ammonia is 1.0 now what?

 

[Ljk09]

Just tested my house water and the ammonia is 1.0 now what?

There's not much you can do now. After your WC you won't be able to get it down past 1.0. When your tank is cycled your beneficial bacteria will be able to take care of it. But for now use your water conditioner.

 

[blert]

Just tested my house water and the ammonia is 1.0 now what?

Don't worry, it just means you won't be able to get under 1.0ppm with water changes from your tap. What this means for you right now is this...
From 4.0ppm a 75% PWC will get you to a bit less than 2.0ppm.
Another 75% after that will get you to about 1.0ppm.
You won't be able to get any lower than that. Prime will detox ammonia for about 24 hours so you may be doing 50% PWCs every day until things start to look up. Keep feeding low.
You can also cut it 50/50 with RO water to help out. You could also use straight RO water but you will need to remineralize it. This will get expensive.

Ammonia toxicity is based on pH and temperature. Check both of those and use the chart here...
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/your-guide-to-ammonia-toxicity-159994.html

 

[Stacie3972]

Ok first 75 PCW done. Will do another in an hour then test to see where we're at. Thanks for everyone's help I appreciate it. Going to pet smart now to find prime all I have is water conditioner called start right by jungle all fish appear active and we'll so thinking were on the right track how long does a cycle take and how will I know when it has completed cycling

 

[blert]

Ok first 75 PCW done. Will do another in an hour then test to see where we're at. Thanks for everyone's help I appreciate it. Going to pet smart now to find prime all I have is water conditioner called start right by jungle all fish appear active and we'll so thinking were on the right track how long does a cycle take and how will I know when it has completed cycling

If you can't find Prime find something that can detoxify ammonia. There are a number of brands on the market and it will say on the bottle.
Prime just happens to be the most cost effective as you use less per gallon than most other conditioners.
It is also best to order it online. I could pay over $20 to buy a 500ml bottle locally but that same bottle costs me about $8 online.