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Killian said:
Ok vacuumed the gravel tonight. Test results from before the 50% pwc:

Ammo 0.25
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 0-5
pH 7.2

What about the filters when should I clean/replace cartridges for the first time? When I looked at the quiet flow cartridge it was about a quarter covered in a brown substance (best way to describe it I guess). I didn't look at the penguin 200's cartridge but the bio-wheel is starting to show the slightest hint of brown. I know you don't change and I'm guessing you don't clean the bio-wheel?

Thanks so much for everyone's help on this. It has been a while since I had a tank. :)

Those are good test results, even with the .25 ammo, IMO. The filter shouldn't be changed unless its falling apart from what I've been told. If it looks gunky swish it around in USED tank water when you do a water change & put it back. If you think you need to replace the filter, run the new one with the old one for a couple of weeks & it should build up the BB without causing a cycle.
 
Thanks! Next time I do a pwc I'll clean off the cartridges in the old tank water.

My 36gal bow front :). I'm seriously considering adding live plants.

image-608066231.jpg
 
Looks good. Yeah real plants make a difference. I have real plants with a few silk plants mixed in.

Here's one of my 10g tanks.

image-355068542.jpg
 
shellieca said:
Looks good. Yeah real plants make a difference. I have real plants with a few silk plants mixed in.

Here's one of my 10g tanks.

Here's my 46g bow front.
image-2264474168.jpg
 
Killian said:

Thank you. As you go you see different things you like, I've changed things up a little along the way. These 2 tanks have only been up about 2 months so I'm still figuring out what works & looks best, especially for the fish & snails that are in them.
 
Ok so it's been awhile since I've updated. I've been testing my tank daily and for the past 5 days my ammo reading has been 0.50pp. I realize I should do probably do a pwc, but I was waiting to see if it would continue up or not. It hasn't. My tap water has 0.50ppm ammo as well. Nitrites are 0, Nitrates are 5, pH is 7.2. I'm I getting ammo because of the tap water? Is the tank still not cycled (it's been going for 42 days now)?
 
Killian said:
Ok so it's been awhile since I've updated. I've been testing my tank daily and for the past 5 days my ammo reading has been 0.50pp. I realize I should do probably do a pwc, but I was waiting

If you're fish in cycling you can't keep waiting. You need to bring the ammonia down. At least one 50% water change (to get it to 0.25), preferably a second to bring it below. And no, you are not cycled.
 
SolvingNormal said:
If you're fish in cycling you can't keep waiting. You need to bring the ammonia down. At least one 50% water change (to get it to 0.25), preferably a second to bring it below. And no, you are not cycled.

If the tap water has the ammo in it how would that help?

But your tank is not cycled, what are your readings now? A cycle tank should be able to deal with that no problem it takes longer to do a fish in cycle. One of the cons. What are your frites and trates reading?
 
Hobgob said:
If the tap water has the ammo in it how would that help?

The tap has 0.25 ammo. The tank has 0.5 ammo. So there's no way to blame anything higher than 0.25 on the tap. 0.5 can be reduced through a water change.
 
SolvingNormal said:
The tap has 0.25 ammo. The tank has 0.5 ammo. So there's no way to blame anything higher than 0.25 on the tap. 0.5 can be reduced through a water change.

Tap water has 0.5 ammo, same as the tank.
 
Tap water has 0.5 ammo, same as the tank.


That .5 ammo could be a false reading of chlorine, see if someone has a pool around you that you could steal a test for. I have around .25 straight tap water, after adding a water conditioner, and letting it gas for 24 hrs it drops too 0.

If your adding .5ppm of chlorine to your tank it is killing off your BB which could be why your tank is stalled
 
Killian said:
Ok so it's been awhile since I've updated. I've been testing my tank daily and for the past 5 days my ammo reading has been 0.50pp. I realize I should do probably do a pwc, but I was waiting to see if it would continue up or not. It hasn't. My tap water has 0.50ppm ammo as well. Nitrites are 0, Nitrates are 5, pH is 7.2. I'm I getting ammo because of the tap water? Is the tank still not cycled (it's been going for 42 days now)?

He said his tap has .5ppm...
 
So back in the thread you mentioned your trates weren't rising anymore... Is anything rising or is it all just sitting still? Your levels should be moving or doing something.
 
Hobgob said:
So back in the thread you mentioned your trates weren't rising anymore... Is anything rising or is it all just sitting still? Your levels should be moving or doing something.

All sitting still and has been for the last 5 days. I haven't had a chance to test today. I will when I get home from work tonight.
 
tottenham12712 said:
That .5 ammo could be a false reading of chlorine, see if someone has a pool around you that you could steal a test for. I have around .25 straight tap water, after adding a water conditioner, and letting it gas for 24 hrs it drops too 0.

If your adding .5ppm of chlorine to your tank it is killing off your BB which could be why your tank is stalled

Would there still be chlorine in the water after treated with Prime?
 
Would there still be chlorine in the water after treated with Prime?

Depends how long you are letting the water sit with prime in.

Take a one gallon container, if you use a milk jug cut the top a bit so the hole is larger. Add your tap, test all levels and write them down, than add prime. Wait 24-48 hours and test again. ammo should be zero, nirites and nirates should remain the same if there are any. However long it takes to get that ammo to zero in that one gallon jug is about how long you need to let your water gas before adding it to the tank. If you have an extra airater it would help gas it quicker.
 
tottenham12712 said:
Depends how long you are letting the water sit with prime in.

Take a one gallon container, if you use a milk jug cut the top a bit so the hole is larger. Add your tap, test all levels and write them down, than add prime. Wait 24-48 hours and test again. ammo should be zero, nirites and nirates should remain the same if there are any. However long it takes to get that ammo to zero in that one gallon jug is about how long you need to let your water gas before adding it to the tank. If you have an extra airater it would help gas it quicker.

Ammonia isn't likely to gas off in that short of a time period, but even if it did Prime (and other similar dechlorinators) work instantly. That includes temporarily detox of nh3. We see the former evident in fishless cycle logs where a known amount is dosed and tested regularly.
 
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Ammonia isn't likely to gas off in that short of a time period, but even if it did Prime (and other similar dechlorinators) work instantly. That includes temporarily detox of nh3. We see the former evident in fishless cycle logs where a known amount is dosed and tested regularly.

I believe he is getting a false reading of ammonia. That .5 at the tap is most likely chlorine. Prime does not remove all of it instantly, that would be next to impossible. It starts to work instantly but does not complete instantly. Same with any of these chemicals(ammo lock, prime, any water conditioner) Ive tested it a few times and in a 5 gallon bucket that is moved around every few hours and takes about 12-24 hours to gas the chlorine out.
 
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