Cycle progress questions

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I could be totally off, I'm not even familiar with the drop tests so I don't even know if there is a way to mix them up or confuse one for the other.

nope - I'm not mixing up the tests - I even went back last week and re-read all the directions to make sure. I am doing everything exactly as written in the book.

you can get nitrate readings without nitrite being 0ppm best check your water supply straight from the tap for nitrate this would explain you having nitrate but not yet cycled alot of water companies use nitrate in the water supplies levels vary depending where you live

good idea - checked the tap - nitrAtes = 0ppm, so it's coming from the tank. Any other thoughts?
 
mommytron
i suggest you get a API freshwater master test kit the strip tests are very innacurate
if the API freshwater master test kit is used as directed you get very accurate readings while the kit is in date

mommytron - I have the API kit and it really is easy to use once you use it a couple times. I highly recommend getting one - I just have funky water ;)
 
AgilityIG

i am sure you follow instructions correctly
but its very important that bottle number 2 nitrate be shaken for 3mins before using
this is because the reagent solidifies and only a really good shake will mix its contents once this is done and added then shake test tube for 5sec you will then get a true nitrate reading after the 5min period as elapsed
please post your water reading again
as i am confused with what they currently are
 
AgilityIG

i am sure you follow instructions correctly
but its very important that bottle number 2 nitrate be shaken for 3mins before using
this is because the reagent solidifies and only a really good shake will mix its contents once this is done and added then shake test tube for 5sec you will then get a true nitrate reading after the 5min period as elapsed
please post your water reading again
as i am confused with what they currently are

Lionheart,

My current readings on the tank are:

ammonia 2ppm
nitrItes 0ppm (sometimes it looks like a darker blue with purple tint)
nitrAtes about 5ppm (darker than yesterday for sure)

Reading from the instuction book that comes with the kit, it says to shake bottle #2 for 30 seconds, then add 10 drops and then sake your test tube for one minute.
 
please read this post
Important Information for API Freshwater Master Test Kit Users!
it is in freshwater brackish gettting started
this info came direct from API regarding the issues with nitrate number 2 bottle

well firstly keep ammonia as close to 4ppm as possible so at the moment its 2ppm so add more until you get it back too 4ppm
the nitrite reading of 0ppm should show clear light blue after 5min in test tube
i had simlar problem myself it was basically changing from light blue to 0ppm to dark blue purple tint this would show up as between 0.25, 0.50,1.0 ppm,
unless you get light blue in colour after 5min in tube then and only then is it 0ppm
i think you also said ammonia will not drop below 2ppm
and you need a new heater
you need to keep temp up
up n down temp is not good and you could kill off good bacteria
you need new heater ASAP
it sounds to me like you got some way to go yet
as ammonia should be being consumed rapidily if you was close to cycle
i am currently cycling a tank and my nitrite as been 0.25ppm for best part of week my ammonia i dose twice daily upto 4ppm it eats it within 12 hours
it just seems with your ammonia readings you have a way to go not yet got a established nitrite population
i might be way wrong so oppologies in advance this is just a opinion
 
Thanks - I will find the post and read it.

I appreciate any and all help!

I don't have a bad heater - I had a thermometer that broke (out of the tank), so got a new one this weekend - nice digital. Temps have been steady between 81-82 degrees.

I think my biggest problem is that, for some reason, my ammonia is not getting consumed by my bacteria.
 
oppologies about heater / thermometer mix up i am across the pond from you and was tired
i really dont understand why your ammonia will not drop below 2ppm
if you have 0ppm nitrite it must be clear light blue in colour after 5min in test tube at all times,
and not look a darker blue with a tint of purple in it ,
if you are cycled it would be constant light blue in colour as on test card
to me you having dark blue tint of purple sometimes would suggest your nitrite is not 0ppm
i would just keep dosing ammonia levels upto 4ppm
and keeping them as close to 4ppm
even if it means dosing 2/3 times aday
i think you might well be close but not quite there
i think you started cycle adding ammonia on 11/3/10
thats just under a month
some people can cycle in this time or less but also many report 6 weeks/or more
alot depends on if you add media from a established tank as this speeds up the process somewhat
if you have not added any established media of sorts
and your substrate/gravel/sand was new
then it will take longer to cycle
 
Progress???

I think I might be making some progress (fingers crossed, knock on wood, etc... ;)).

Since I was a little concerned that I was doing something wrong or that my API test kit might be bad, I brought home some water from our fish tank at work and ran nitrItes, nitrAtes and ammonia tests on it and everything worked great (totally different readings than I got with my tank and I could really see the difference in colors). I need to convince the girl at work that takes care of the fish that we need to do PWCs, but that is a whole 'nother story!

I then tested my tank again tonight:

ammonia 2ppm
nitrItes 0.25ppm
nitrAtes 5ppm

The color on the nitrItes and nitrAtes is there for sure. The last time I tested, it was not quite there. So I am starting to get nitrItes and nitrAtes. I added a few drops of ammonia and will test that again before going to bed.
 
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