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Old 11-12-2011, 10:17 PM   #11
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Tested again tonight and got about the same color with API on the ammonia test as i did yesterday...vacuumed out 15 gallons....8 drops of Prime per bucket, so 48 drops instead of the recommended 30 drops...just for some extra protection

Looks like i'm going to be doing daily 50% vacuums for awhile....

i know this is a dumb question...so i don't know why i'm even asking it...but i have the under-powered filter that came with my tank its a TopFin 20...just totally not enough filtration...Will upgrading to a AquaClear 70 or AquaClear 110(my lfs didn't have any 70's in stock) make any difference to the ammonia levels? i know it'll help with the waste in the tank, and i'm (think) that the waste in the tank produces Ammonia....But i'm not sure if it'll be an appreciable difference

BTW: What else should i test for?
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:28 PM   #12
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Go for the higher filtration. The rule for goldfish due to their messiness is to have ten times the filtration- a 10gal should have a 100gph (gallons per hour) filter, a 20 gal 200gph, a 30gal 300gph filtration, etc. Look at the 'gph' for the filters your considering & get an appropriate filter (not what the filter size says ie- for a 20gal or for a 30gal) based on the gph. Not such thing as too much filtration with goldfish! Make sure you add the new filter & leave the old one on as well (it has the bacteria). And keep up the good work with the pwcs!!!
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:02 AM   #13
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Ok so the paycheck comes in on the 15 i'm 70% sure i'm going to buy the AquaClear 70(300 GPH) 30% sure i'm going to buy the Aquaclear 110(500 GPH)

For tonight, i added carbon into the Top Fin 30 i have, i had replaced the (Carbon)Charcoal insert with a strictly foam setup at the beginning of the week, now i've stuffed the foam in the filter WITH a fresh (carbon)charcoal media cartridge...i'm going to test for ammonia at the same time tomorrow night
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Old 11-13-2011, 02:59 PM   #14
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Read this off another forum...


Quote:
The ammonia might also have come from the water change. Tap water conditioners break the chlorine bond by converting chlorine to chloramine, chloramine is non-toxic and will be dissolved into the air, but that process creates an ammonia by-product. As long as you are using Prime that ammonia by-product will be converted to ammonium, also non-toxic, and the bacteria will process it out. This is why you should wait 24 hours after water changes to do ammonia tests since they may be skewed by the conditioner.
So maybe i should be waiting longer after my water changes with Prime to test? give the Bacteria some time to deal with the ammonia in the tank
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:27 PM   #15
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Just testing right now after change 15 gallons:

Ammonia: between 0 - .25 (closer to .25)
Nitrites: between 1 - 2 ppm (closer to 1)
Nitrates: between 0 - 5 ppm (looks like 0) looks like i did crash my cycle
High PH: between 8.4 - 8.8 WAY TOO HIGH!

That PH is freaking me out...i'm going to test my tap water right now

Tested Tap water

Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 0
PH was between 7.4-7.8 (bottom of the low PH, top of the high PH drop testers)
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:48 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ridewithme38 View Post
Read this off another forum...




So maybe i should be waiting longer after my water changes with Prime to test? give the Bacteria some time to deal with the ammonia in the tank
Actually, it really wont make a difference when you test just as long as you wait 20mins for the new water to circulate. Although the prime detoxifies the ammonia, your ammonia test will come positive for ammonia (or ammonium) either way-a 'false positive' result. The effect of prime only lasts @24hrs so the ammonium will revert back to toxic form after that period of time. So, the best thing either way is pwcs to remove the ammonia/amonium in the first place.
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Old 11-13-2011, 04:56 PM   #17
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Your latest tests- the nitrites are pretty high. You really should do another pwc. Another pwc will also bring your ph down closer to your tap. My ph went up when my latest tank cycled (ususally it will drop) but i believe this has something to do with the ammonia. Ammonia is very alkaline (high ph). But im not a chemist so i dont exactly know how everything coorelates or how to explain it. Pwcs (once again) will help lower your ph & re-establish the buffers needed to help keep it stable. On your filter-if you can afford it, go for the bigger (more gph) filter! I actually have two 400gph filters on my 50gal (and theres only 3 goldies in there...).
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:32 PM   #18
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Ok just completed a second 15 gallon water change for today...i'm going to eat some dinner and test after!

Thank you for all your help so far!
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:06 PM   #19
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Nitrite: 0 (huge drop! didn't even seem to change color)
Ammonia: 0-.25 (less green then last time)
PH: it read as higher then 7.6, but when i tested the high end it didn't really register...so my guess is 7.6-7.8
Nitrates: look like 0

I'm just hoping i don't have to do 2 50% water changed every day
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:32 PM   #20
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Im glad things are looking better!! The sooner the comet is rehomed, the easier things will be because you have a really large bioload happening right now. Great job with the pwcs!!! As you can see, they do really help normalize everything & your fish really appreciate it!
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