Do you QT fish for newly cycled tank?

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new2betas

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Another newbie question.....my 10 gallon is getting close to being cycled (I checked my nitrites and ammonia this morning and both are lowering quickly after nitrites being high yesterday). Anyway - I have been reading SO much on here and truly learning a lot, but things do get confusing at times. I was just reading some of the nightmares in the "worst thing happened to you" thread and I want to try to prevent any disasters from happening to my new tank that I have been SO patient with! First off....the whole reason I got this new tank was so I could move over my betta to it and get him out of this little 2 gallon tank. Then, of course, I started researching possible tank mates for him. Some of the fish I am looking at (reticulated cory, skunk cory) are not sold locally that I can find. Is it recommended to get new fish online? I went to aqaubid yesterday and found some of these and they say that they are QT for three weeks. So, does that mean they could go straight to my new tank or I would have to also QT them? If I get something from a lfs is it okay to QT them in the new tank without the betta added yet? Once my tank had cycled, I REALLY wanted to move my betta over to it immediately. But, I am so scared of putting him in the tank first and then introducing new fish that could possibly kill him with some sort of fungus or disease. My 10 gallon is the biggest I have right now. I don't have and really can't invest in another 10 gallon right now just for a QT tank. I have two smaller 2 gallon tanks (that bettas are in currently). Is there anything else I could safely use as a QT tank? I know this has been long and I appreciate any that have read this far. I am just so scared of buying some new fish and then seeing them all die of something, or worse, my betta getting sick from something newly acquired....
 
I went to aqaubid yesterday and found some of these and they say that they are QT for three weeks. So, does that mean they could go straight to my new tank or I would have to also QT them? I

f I get something from a lfs is it okay to QT them in the new tank without the betta added yet?

Well that depends on if you trust the seller. Meaning how sure are you that they actually do what they say? I'm sure many on here tend to question everything, especially if they had fish get sick or die from not QT'ing new fish before. Also it depends on how worried you are about possibly loosing your fish, like if its a large tank with many fish in it, or just like yours with one fish. So I'm sure many on here would QT the fish from aquabid or anywhere else even though they state they have already been QT'd. Only if they knew/talked with the person or bought fish from them multiple times would these diehards actually not QT new fish since they trust the seller.

Normally the OT is meant to be a meaningless tank, so if there is an issue, nothing is really tampered with except that fish/tank. So it can easily be sterilized if an issue occurred.

So I dont think using your new large tank is a good QT tank. Your best using one of the 2G tanks.

Now having said that, if the fish you get need a heater/filter and you dont have one then?? So personally since I'm new, I dont have provisions for this setup, I have cheap fish(guppy) that are easily and locally replaceable, so for me its easier to just put them in the tank, and I trust my LFS, even though they prob only have the fish I bought for 1 week or so before I got them. So I'm a little too optimistic that it should be OK, but I dont have any other feasible options and I have not been burnt (yet). Also at this point I'm done adding fish to mine, just waiting on some RCS shrimp, and from what I read disease/parasites from shrimp dont effect fish.

So what would I do?
Well in your case if you dont have a heater for the 2 gallon, then I think the best thing to do is to put the new fish in the large tank(as long as the new fish neads a heater). So if it dies, then you can sterilize that tank and start over. Or if your a little brave even put the betta in with the new fish in the large tank, unless you absolutely do Not want to lose the betta.
 
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So what would I do?
Well in your case if you dont have a heater for the 2 gallon, then I think the best thing to do is to put the new fish in the large tank(as long as the new fish neads a heater). So if it dies, then you can sterilize that tank and start over. Or if your a little brave even put the betta in with the new fish in the large tank, unless you absolutely do Not want to lose the betta.

I did just buy a preset small heater for my 2 gallon, but my water temp in my 2 gallon stays steady at 78 degrees, so many of the fish I am looking at would be fine in the two gallon without a heater. I am not sure if I am brave enough to put my betta in with the new fish because I would hate to lose him. I have had him a few months now and, thanks to help from this forum, pulled him through a bout of internal parasites. And, the fact that I bought the 10 gallon for him in the first place. I just would hate to lose him because I introduced new fish around him and they got him sick. So, I guess I will do the more conservative approach and put him in the new tank first and get fish slowly that I can put in the 2 gallon tank as a QT tank. Okay, that settled.....would the 2 gallon only be appropriate for QT'ing one fish at a time or could I possibly do two? Also, after I take my betta out of the 2 gallon should I just leave everything in there as is....the plants, cave, gravel, water? so, anything going into it as a QT tank has a biological filter already in place??? Sorry for all of these seemingly silly questions...I am just adamant on doing it the best way for my fish.
Thanks!
 
I learned the hard way that you need to QT all new arrivals. We bought three African Cichlids from the lfs that we have always trusted. Brought them home and acclimated. That night we had a dead fish, one of the new arrivals. The next day we had two. The day after that another one. It didn't stop until we had roughly 10 dead full grown African Cichlids. Since then we have QTd every new fish.
 
Ideally you should QT every new fish reguardless of the source. Through bagging, transportation, etc the fish becomes stressed and more prone to disease even if it was healthy beforehand. By placing it in QT for at least 4-6 weeks you are ensure that it hasn't been stressed to the point of becoming sick.

You're QT doesn't have to be an aquarium. You can use a 5 gallon bucket or a Rubbermaid container reserved for aquarium use only. Add a sponge filter and a heater, and you've got a QT. Also make sure to provide some decor for the fish to shelter in. Plastic plants, ceramic pots, etc.

That being said, I generally don't QT my fish. Reason being that my aquariums are so small that usually the fish being added are going to be the only occupants of the aquarium so they are the first ones in. I still have a 5 gallon bucket available with heater and sponge filter should I ever need it for QT or a Hospital Aquarium.
 
You're QT doesn't have to be an aquarium. You can use a 5 gallon bucket or a Rubbermaid container reserved for aquarium use only. Add a sponge filter and a heater, and you've got a QT. Also make sure to provide some decor for the fish to shelter in. Plastic plants, ceramic pots, etc.

So, I should be okay using my 2 gallon as my QT tank? And, can I only buy one fish at a time, QT it for 4-6 weeks, then add it to new tank, etc. ? I really don't want many fish in my tank since it is only 10 gallons. Would a few cories and maybe a couple of danios or a couple of white clouds be too much? I am sort of interested in shrimp also.....hmmmm......

Also, again, if I use my already set up and cycled 2 gallon tank for my QT tank then the decor should stay as it is already a set up biofilter, yes?
 
Your 2 gallon would be fine as a QT as long as it's big enough for the fish that you need to house in it temporarily. Keep in mind that if it doesn't have a source of ammonia, the biofilter will slowly die off. Once your betta is moved to the main aquarium, if you don't pick up the new fish within about 24 hours you'll need to add an ammonia source to the 2 gallon to keep it cycled until you add the QT fish. Also most of the beneficial bacteria will be in the filter, so it shouldn't matter to much if you move some of the decor (as long as you are removing a ton of decorations all at once).

Personally I wouldn't add Zebra Danios to a 10 gallon aquarium. They are much too active for that size aquarium. White clouds prefer cooler temperatures and would be better off in an unheated aquarium. I would just get a small school of cories, preferably dwarf cories for that size aquarium. While I know that it's tempting to try get lots of variety in a 10 gallon aquarium, I find that fish (especially schooling fish) are much more interesting in a larger group of their own kind.
 
Personally I wouldn't add Zebra Danios to a 10 gallon aquarium. They are much too active for that size aquarium. White clouds prefer cooler temperatures and would be better off in an unheated aquarium. I would just get a small school of cories, preferably dwarf cories for that size aquarium. While I know that it's tempting to try get lots of variety in a 10 gallon aquarium, I find that fish (especially schooling fish) are much more interesting in a larger group of their own kind.

Thanks for the advice, Joy. :D I do like the dwarf cories also...but my lfs doesn't carry them. Could I ask them to get some or should I order some online (although shipping prices online are outrageous!!)
 
I have 2 quarintine tanks. 1 2.5 gallon and 1 10 gallon. I currently have my crayfish in the 10 gallon though because im starting completely over in my 55 gal and it just got cycling and im buying fish online and they come drugged so i dont want him having an easy meal with a new fish that is drugged.
 
Also most of the beneficial bacteria will be in the filter.

Personally I wouldn't add Zebra Danios to a 10 gallon aquarium. They are much too active for that size aquarium. White clouds prefer cooler temperatures and would be better off in an unheated aquarium. I would just get a small school of cories, preferably dwarf cories for that size aquarium. While I know that it's tempting to try get lots of variety in a 10 gallon aquarium, I find that fish (especially schooling fish) are much more interesting in a larger group of their own kind.

Awesome advise, This 1st part is what I'm saying in the other thread

I looked into Danios for my 10G and was told on another great site that they need a 20G for more space to swim even though they are small. I looked into most of the fish you mention, the smallest Cories that I could find locally were Panda Corries, think they are like 1.5" adults, try to get 3-4, they are interesting and fun to watch, may want to look into those. Since I bought Guppy's they breed like crazy so I went for shrimp instead. Started with Ghost shrimp just to try it, but many times they dont live long(mine died after 2months), now waiting on Cherry Shrimp.
 
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hhmmmmm.....so I may go with panda cories and some cherry shrimp. I don't even know if my lfs has the cherry shrimp, I know I have seen the ghost shrimp though. Are the cherries more hardy? I have seen the pandas though. Thanks!!

Also --- If the pandas are in the same tank at the lfs do I just buy one and QT it or can I buy around three and QT them together (in a 2 gallon)?
 
Cherry shrimp are more hardy, they also breed in fresh water easily(have been called cockroaches of the aquarium). Ghost shrimp do not breed in FW(well maybe one variation, so not likely). Cherry shrimp give birth to live shrimp not eggs thats why its easy to feed the babies and they have a much better chance of surviving then eggs/larva. I'm getting some RCS donated from a great member on here for just the price of shipping. At 1st shrimp didnt seem too exciting to me, but after having some ghost shrimp, they deff are exciting to watch(sometimes hard to spot). I would like a 10gallon with just cherry shrimp and prob will if I upgrade to a 20G in the future. I've never seen them at my LFS but they say they do get them from time to time, I was considering getting 10 from aquabid but got a better offer:D. Also since the breed and the babies are very small I'm sure some will get eaten, also when you buy them they are normally very young b/c they handle stress better. So make sure they have good hiding spots, Java moss is normally shipped with them and should help. I have 2(that I can find) less than 1wk old fry currently that are hiding in it. In the future to control population I plan to remove some hiding spots so that more young get eaten. It is sad when some baby gets eaten, but I dont have the room for everyone, so natures way of survival of the fittest works for me.

I dont see a prob with getting 3 corries in the 2 gallon for QT, heck people put goldfish in a 1G bowl, I had one for over a year like that when I was young(parents didnt know any better either). Just keep up on water changes

When deciding to skip the pandas for mine I also took into consideration that the shrimp and corries are both bottom feeders, I didnt want them to fight for food. I can tell you that the ghost shrimp would hold there own against adult guppies, they would not let go of the food even when being pestered by the guppies, they would just try to swim away. So you may want to ask others about corries and shrimp, I dont think it will be as much as an issues as I first thought.
 
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I do like the dwarf cories also...but my lfs doesn't carry them. Could I ask them to get some or should I order some online.

Are the cherries more hardy? I have seen the pandas though. Thanks!!

If the pandas are in the same tank at the lfs do I just buy one and QT it or can I buy around three and QT them together (in a 2 gallon)?

I would ask your LFS to try to order them in. They do seem to be easier to get at certain times of the year, so don't be surprised if you have to wait awhile. If you're going to order fish online, I find it's best to find some other people locally to go in on a group order. This makes the shipping much more affordable. I've been in a couple of group plant orders and one group fish order through my local fish club, and they've all been great experiances.

Cherry Red Shrimp are probably the hardiest FW shrimp out there and is also very easy to breed. Basically if they're happy and healthy they're breeding. The easiest way to get ahold of them is through the boards. Lots of us keep a colonly and then sell off extras when things get a bit crowded. Expect to pay about $1.25 per shrimp plus shipping when buying from a hobbiest (a little over $20 for a dozen). Unless you're lucky enough to find some for the price of shipping like SpeedEuphoria. I personally wouldn't spend more than $25 for a dozen shipped from a hobbiest. If packaged properly they are fine being shipped Priority. At your LFS you can expect to pay $3.50-$5.00 each.

I'd probably go ahead and get 3 cories at once and be prepared to do water changes if necessary. As long as they are under an 1" when you get them, they should be fine short term in the smaller quarters. They really do better in groups, and if you could add a second batch of 3 down the road they'll thank you for it.
 
Joy - how many CRS should I try to get for a 10 gallon tank? And, if they breed alot will my tank get overrun with them? I will try posting in the classifieds here to see if anyone wants to get rid of any also....thanks, as always, for the suggestions!
 
I started my 10 gallon colony with a dozen shrimp, though you could get by with a half dozen in a pinch. Since you'll have other fish in there with them, it'll be awhile before they need to be thinned, though depending on how much of a taste your Betta and Cories have for the shrimp they may never need to be thinned. The critical stage will be while the shrimp are getting established, if they don't have enough cover they could end up being an expensive snack.
 
I started my 10 gallon colony with a dozen shrimp, though you could get by with a half dozen in a pinch. Since you'll have other fish in there with them, it'll be awhile before they need to be thinned, though depending on how much of a taste your Betta and Cories have for the shrimp they may never need to be thinned. The critical stage will be while the shrimp are getting established, if they don't have enough cover they could end up being an expensive snack.

I think I have enough cover for them. I have a small cave a few plants and some java moss on the way.....so I will look at a dozen. Also, they wouldn't also need to be QT'd would they? I will take updated pics soon and post them.
 
QT shouldn't be necessary for shrimp. The most important thing is to ensure that they are going into a stable and established aquarium, since they are much more sensitive to spikes in Ammonia and Nitrites than most fish.
 
QT shouldn't be necessary for shrimp. The most important thing is to ensure that they are going into a stable and established aquarium, since they are much more sensitive to spikes in Ammonia and Nitrites than most fish.

Will do, Joy. I just checked my levels again and ammonia is still around a .25 and the same with the nitrites .25. When will they hit 0??? I am also going to post a new updated picture of my tank in the pix section.
 
Yeah the Cherry shrimp are expensive unless you find a deal. No QT necessary as shrimp issues dont affect fish AFAIK.

Also try not to confuse CRS(Chrystal red shrimp) with RCS(red cherry shrimp), as they are different

As far as how many, 6 or 10 should be good to start, people that bred them in 10G shrimp only setups report 100-150 shrimp in a 10G. Some say they kind of regulate there population somewhat by not breeding as much when there are lots of them. I think in a community tank removing hiding places should work good to keep the population down if needed, at least I hope. I just saw 5 guppy fry hiding in one small bunch of java moss in my tank, so in the future I may have to remove all this javamoss from my tank if the population gets out of hand
 
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Try to find some naja grass (guppy grass). That is even better than Java moss for RCS.


Always quaranteen new arrivals at least 3 weeks. They may look healthy in the store but the next adjustment will be to your water. Sometimes they don't adjust that fast and need help. If they are carrying an internal parasite you have plenty of time to treat and not spread it to your main aquarium.
 
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