Fish in cycling

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hyperman

Aquarium Advice Activist
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Jul 31, 2012
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We have a new 29 gallon tank. We have 2 small guppies and 2 swordtails for a week now. Ammonia has been 0 and nitrites have been 0. Still no sign of nitrates. Is this OK or is there something we should be doing?
 
hyperman said:
We have a new 29 gallon tank. We have 2 small guppies and 2 swordtails for a week now. Ammonia has been 0 and nitrites have been 0. Still no sign of nitrates. Is this OK or is there something we should be doing?

Just keep testing and doing water changes. I did a fish in cycle on my 55 Cichlid tank, I NEVER saw nitrites and I tested ALOT! 3-4x's day my OCD is bad. I just kept up on water changes. But you should see a spike soon. Your bio load isn't huge like mine was so it may take time. Just feed on your normal schedule and like I said keep testing. What type of filtration are you using?
 
You have just started cycling and you have a large tank with 3 small fish in it. Your Nitrate and Ammonia levels will start very slowly. Your Ammonia levels should peak in 2-3 weeks. Cycling should be complete in 6-8 weeks.
 
Fish In Cycling

We have a new 29 gallon tank. We have 2 small guppies and 2 swordtails for a week now. Ammonia has been 0 and nitrites have been 0. Still no sign of nitrates. Is this OK or is there something we should be doing?

Hello hyper...

If you test several times with no trace of ammonia or nitrites, then you should add a few more small fish and resume testing the water daily. When a test shows a trace of either of the above toxins, you remove and replace at least 25 percent of the tank's water. This will get the chemistry back into the "safe zone" for your fish.

This is how the cycling process works. You add fish to increase the waste, the good bacteria grows to process the wastes. You simply follow the above steps until the tank is fully stocked.

Note that this cycling process takes a month to six weeks.

B
 
I don't wanna come off rude and I apologize in advance if I do, not my intention at all :)

I see no reason for the OP should add more fish to help her along with the cycle. The OP will do fine with what they have and the tank will run its course and cycle. Don't just throw fish in a tank to cycle it, JMHO.

Wait it out, your tank will cycle... In the meantime like mentioned test water often, change your water accordingly and if you choose to add more fish, please make sure it's fish you really want and not just fish to cycle your tank. Then you'll need to re home them when your done if they make it.

Fish in cycle can be stressful on fish.

Just my opinion.


The Con


http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html
 
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Fish In Cycling

I don't wanna come off rude and I apologize in advance if I do, not my intention at all :)

I see no reason for the OP to add more fish to help her cycle. The OP will do fine with what they have and the tank will run its course. Don't just throw fish in a tank to cycle it, JMHO.

Wait it out, your tank will cycle... In the meantime like mentioned test water often and of you choose to add more fish, make sure it's fish you really want and not just fish to cycle your tank. Then you'll need to re home them when your done of they make it.

Fish in cycle can be stressful on fish.

Just my opinion.

Hello Con...

No need to apologize. If you have a 29 G tank with four small fish in it and you've tested daily for several days, with no traces of the more toxic nitrogens, then adding a few more fish will increase the bioload and the good bacteria will grow to handle the added waste and bacteria grows very quickly.

You simply monitor the tank water daily and when you see the slightest trace of either ammonia or nitrites, you change out at least a quarter of the tank water. If you test daily and remove the water when you have a positive test for toxins, then the fish will be fine. The water won't be in the tank long enough for toxins to build up to a level that will hurt the fish. The key to "fish in" cycling is constant testing and water replacement.

Just an opinion.

B
 
Makes sense. I did it with a Stocked (cough) (cough) I mean... Overstocked African Cichlid 55 gallon tank so I cycled pretty fast lol. I was changing water 2-3x's a day AND had to add another AC110 to help as well.

Just the OP to add the proper fish of they choose to do so. You know ones they plan on keeping for a long time. Not just toss in fish for the sake of cycling.

But you make valid points and although opinions differ we're kind of on the same page :)

I think? lol

Enjoy your weekend
 
Fish In Cycling

Hello again Con...

Thanks for the post. It doesn't hurt to have several opinions to get all the information out there for the poster and I'm certainly no authority. I understand the drawback of cycling with only hardy fish. You end up having fish you don't want, and try to find fish that will get along with them. I guess that's also the benefit of a "community" tank.

I appreciate your understanding of a slightly different take on a question. That's why AA is my favorite forum. I'm always interested in the opinions of those with a considerable number of posts.

B
 
I totally agree and this is why I love it here as well. I respect your opinions and that's what makes this hobby and family here at AA so great. You can bring a wealth of different opinions on a mature level and learn from one and other :)

Again enjoy your weekend
 
I agree with Convict on this. There's no sense in adding more fish and making the process more difficult.

Just because there isn't a measurable concentration in the tank at some point does not mean that ammonia isn't being produced, that part is a given.

The constant water changes that are often associated with fish-in cycling are not mandatory, it's just a preventative measure, one based on waste levels being produced.

I do agree that adding more fish may help the process along faster by having more of a bioload, but it also means more testing and more water changes, so ultimately it's up to you. The tank will cycle either way you go about it.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I assume that there is no need for a water change until I start seeing ammonia and nitrites? What is a safe level of ammonia for them....., always 0? We feed them once a day for 4 minutes.
 
hyperman said:
Thanks for all the replies. I assume that there is no need for a water change until I start seeing ammonia and nitrites? What is a safe level of ammonia for them....., always 0? We feed them once a day for 4 minutes.

You will want to do a water change anytime ammonia or nitrite levels get above .25, some
Say .5 but I always try and do water changes at .25
 
Fish In Cycling

Thanks for all the replies. I assume that there is no need for a water change until I start seeing ammonia and nitrites? What is a safe level of ammonia for them....., always 0? We feed them once a day for 4 minutes.

Hello again hyper...

If you've got the health of your fish at the top of your "list of priorities", then even a trace of either ammonia or nitrites is enough to damage the sensitive tissues of the fishes' gills. A smart waterkeeper will test the water daily and change a minimum of 25 percent of the tank water when a test shows even a trace of either of these two toxins.

It would be good to get some floating stem plants into the tank as well. Anacharis, Water wisteria, Water sprite and Pennywort are fast growers in water with a lot of dissolved wastes in it. These will help in the cycling process.

B
 
hyperman said:
Thanks for all the replies. I assume that there is no need for a water change until I start seeing ammonia and nitrites? What is a safe level of ammonia for them....., always 0? We feed them once a day for 4 minutes.

Also since you say you feed for 4 minutes, you may have increased ammonia, which will
lead to more water changes, generally (I think, if I'm wrong someone please correct me!) you only need to feed as much as your fish can consume in 1-2 minutes.
 
OK. We have hit .25 for ammonia. I have a 29 gallon tank. How much of a pwc change should I do? I will have to be adding the water at room temperature, will that be OK?
 
To add to my post. We have a python clean and fill system. The tank is upstairs and our non-softened water source is downstairs hence the need for the python. So do I use a clean bucket and use room temperature tap water that has been dechlorinated for the pwc?
 
hyperman said:
To add to my post. We have a python clean and fill system. The tank is upstairs and our non-softened water source is downstairs hence the need for the python. So do I use a clean bucket and use room temperature tap water that has been dechlorinated for the pwc?

If I remember correctly if your using the python to do your WC then when you add your dechlorinator you will need to add enough to treat your entire tank. I would say do about a
30-40% WC and that should bring your ammonia levels down a good bit you could even do 50% if you wanted, again thats up to you, I think doing a 30-40% wc would be sufficient. But if your doing your clean water by buckets then you can dechlorinate by the bucket as its added to the tank (if that makes sense).
 
Thanks. If I use the python should I be concerned about the water temp difference between the tap water and the tank? I have the tank at 78 and the tap would be about 68
 
hyperman said:
Thanks. If I use the python should I be concerned about the water temp difference between the tap water and the tank? I have the tank at 78 and the tap would be about 68

Do you have heaters in your tank or heaters that you can put in the tank for a few hours after a WC to get the temp back up to 78? I'm not an expert and someone else may have another suggestion but that would be my idea would be to use heaters and take them out after temp is back at 78 if you don't keep heaters in the tank all the time.
 
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