How soon to start water changing?

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evil Nick

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Really just started a cycle using the additives, plants and a couple live guys.
Some of the plants are getting some brown spots, which I read is normal when changed into new water. Fish are fine.
Water is getting a bit smelly and I'm noticing some plant matter settling on the bottom. Wondering how soon during or after a cycle you can start minor water changes, like 10%?
Problem is I think the bac bloom is still in progress. How do you really know when its done.
I'm measuring the levels again but so far the first two measurements seemed fine from the kit directions.

We're leaving for a week so I jus want to make sure alls safe for a week I won't be here to monitor it.

Thanks

Also we got mystery snails for the cycle and we thought one came with babies but they are really small and digging into the gravel. Their shells are also not round like the mystery ones but more cone shaped. Could these be pond snails??

Should I get an assassin snail now or wait?

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Wondering how soon during or after a cycle you can start minor water changes, like 10%?
Problem is I think the bac bloom is still in progress. How do you really know when its done.
Should be able to do a 10% water change anytime.

I'm measuring the levels again but so far the first two measurements seemed fine from the kit directions.
What is the actual reading for ammonia?

Also we got mystery snails for the cycle and we thought one came with babies but they are really small and digging into the gravel. Their shells are also not round like the mystery ones but more cone shaped. Could these be pond snails??

Should I get an assassin snail now or wait?

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Could be pond snails, ramshorn snails or MTS. Assassin snails could kill your mystery snails as well.
 
Cone shaped and burrowing are Malaysian trumpet snails. Do some research; I did and decided to keep them on purpose. I find they are very useful cleaners and don't take over the tank unless you over feed. They'll reproduce to a point and stop.

The Persmart clerk the other day said assassin snails are the real pest but I've never heard that anywhere else.


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Cone shaped and burrowing are Malaysian trumpet snails. Do some research; I did and decided to keep them on purpose. I find they are very useful cleaners and don't take over the tank unless you over feed. They'll reproduce to a point and stop.

Won't all snails reproduce as long as there is food? Anyway is this the size these guys will stay?

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It depends what kind of snails they are. MTS and pond snails reproduce at a significant rate.

Some snails need special conditions to reproduce like Nerites and others reproduce at lower rates like Mystery snails.

Do you have a pic of yours?
 
Should be able to do a 10% water change anytime.


What is the actual reading for ammonia?


Could be pond snails, ramshorn snails or MTS. Assassin snails could kill your mystery snails as well.

I'd prob remove the snails we want then bring the assasins back after or keep them in a quarentine tank until needed.

My ammonia and pH actually spiked.
PH is now about 7.4-7.5 I suck with these colors.
Ammonia was def 2ppm


Nitrites were good

Water got a bit smelly and like I said the stuff at the bottom is accumulating. Some people say leave it until the cycle completes but is that okay to do?


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2ppm is a lot. That will be toxic.

You should do some large water changes to get it down. If not, your fish may be dead when you return.
 
2ppm is a lot. That will be toxic.

You should do some large water changes to get it down. If not, your fish may be dead when you return.

is it safe to do a large water change tho if the cycling isnt done? Ive heard that can cause a spike or a new bacteria bloom (other posts and sites)

Perhaps 2 days before I leave Ill do a decent water change to be safe.
Could I add more of the bacteria additive as well to reduce the ammonia levels?
Perhaps this is why my first readins were all good since I was dosing with the liquid bacteria for the first few days?
 
A water change may have a minor effect on your cycle but 2ppm+ is probably toxic. So, you need to balance the well being of your fish against the effectiveness of your cycle.

The bacteria additive won't remove ammonia immediately. Ammonia is just building which is why it wasn't as high initially.
 
A water change may have a minor effect on your cycle but 2ppm+ is probably toxic. So, you need to balance the well being of your fish against the effectiveness of your cycle.

The bacteria additive won't remove ammonia immediately. Ammonia is just building which is why it wasn't as high initially.

I will try to do a few minor changes then before we leave. thanks

Should I do a cleaning/vaccum of the gravel and base material as well or leave that to finish the cycle and just change like 1/4 of the water?
 
You should lower the ammonia level to below 0.5ppm. The ammonia is in the water so change as much water as you need to to make that happen. In other words, if your ammonia is at 1ppm then you need to change 50% to get it down 0.5ppm.

0.5ppm is just a loose guideline. If you want a more specific number you can look up ammonia toxicity chart which will factor pH and temperature.
 
Won't all snails reproduce as long as there is food? Anyway is this the size these guys will stay?

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Some snails need mates and special settings to reproduce. Malaysian trumpet snails reproduce without mates, they just sorta clone themselves. Some people say they keep reproducing forever until they overrun the tank. Some say they won't reproduce in absence of lots of food. My experience is consistent with the latter.

One fish person told me the assassins reproduce asexually and don't stop even In absence of food on the floor, making them the greater nuisance, but I've only heard this from one LFS.

Some snails lay eggs that never hatch but leave white specks all over, I believe it's nerites in fresh water but I could be mistaken there.


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Some snails need mates and special settings to reproduce. Malaysian trumpet snails reproduce without mates, they just sorta clone themselves. Some people say they keep reproducing forever until they overrun the tank. Some say they won't reproduce in absence of lots of food. My experience is consistent with the latter.

One fish person told me the assassins reproduce asexually and don't stop even In absence of food on the floor, making them the greater nuisance, but I've only heard this from one LFS.

Some snails lay eggs that never hatch but leave white specks all over, I believe it's nerites in fresh water but I could be mistaken there.


Sent from my iPhone with three hands tied behind my back.

Yep, neuritis are the ones that lay white infertile eggs all over the place! :lol: I love mine but scraping the eggs off of the driftwood and glass gets tedious. They need brackish water to hatch. MTS are a good snail to have in the tank as you will almost never see them as they live burrowed in the substrate and they are base level detrivores who will eats detritus like dead leaves and stray food.
 
One fish person told me the assassins reproduce asexually and don't stop even In absence of food on the floor, making them the greater nuisance, but I've only heard this from one LFS.
I am pretty sure that assassin snails need mates to breed.

Some snails lay eggs that never hatch but leave white specks all over, I believe it's nerites in fresh water but I could be mistaken there.
Nerites definitely do this. It is sort of annoying since they are such awesome algae eaters.
 
Yep, neuritis are the ones that lay white infertile eggs all over the place! :lol: I love mine but scraping the eggs off of the driftwood and glass gets tedious. They need brackish water to hatch. MTS are a good snail to have in the tank as you will almost never see them as they live burrowed in the substrate and they are base level detrivores who will eats detritus like dead leaves and stray food.

I thought assassin snails needed brackish water to hatch as well which is why they were good for the job.
Again hopefully a pea puffer will help this situation
 
You should lower the ammonia level to below 0.5ppm. The ammonia is in the water so change as much water as you need to to make that happen. In other words, if your ammonia is at 1ppm then you need to change 50% to get it down 0.5ppm.

0.5ppm is just a loose guideline. If you want a more specific number you can look up ammonia toxicity chart which will factor pH and temperature.

should I clean the bottom tho or just leave that stuff to complete the cycle. I seem to be looking up conflicting opinions
 
should I clean the bottom tho or just leave that stuff to complete the cycle. I seem to be looking up conflicting opinions
You should clean it. If you were doing a fishless cycle then it might make sense to leave it but since you are not it makes more sense to clean it up.
 
I thought assassin snails needed brackish water to hatch as well which is why they were good for the job.

Again hopefully a pea puffer will help this situation


Yeah I'd heard that, then was at this one LFS where they had a massive infestation of what they said were assassin snails. They're the ones who said the assassins are worse than the others. But again this is just one LFS.


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You should clean it. If you were doing a fishless cycle then it might make sense to leave it but since you are not it makes more sense to clean it up.

K my siphon just came in. My ammonia spiked to 4 so wow! I didn't want to put fish in there but the Mrs decides.
I'm going to to a full clean I guess but I'm afraid of getting caught in an endless cycle

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K so this weekend.

Went into Petco this weekend after grocery shopping and found the Fuval LED plant light on sale for about 120 from like 170 (cheaper than amazon).

It was actually mis marked but the Manager was really cool and she offered ME to honor the price before I even thought about asking so I kind of jumped, but she did say it has a 30day return policy with reciept no questions so If I dont like it it goes back.
I splurged and got the versaclear lid as well..... honestly DONT like the glass lid.

Amazon.com : Fluval LED 24-Inch Daylight/Plant Lamp, 25-watt : Aquarium Lights : Pet Supplies

Im thinking of taking the lid and spraying the front half with my black plasti dip just because honestly I like the black. Ill leave the rear clear of course for the light.

Did a 30% water change
Slight Vaccum of the heavy material on the bottom but MOSTLY removed all dead material from my plants (a LOT of ded hornwart). Then used my net to actually removed the floating debre.
Removed my Puregen sack that was basically dirt brown and installed a new activated carbon pad instead for now.

Problem is my ammonia does not seem to have moved at all.

Im really more interested in getting through the cycle than salvaging the platy and molly. I did lose one snail this weekend but I think its because the stu-nod ate some of a buried root-tab and poisoned himself.

My complete interest is in getting through the cycle so my water is good for the fish I want, its clear and I can enjoy setting it up. I want to get my plants to grow and Im sure this new light will help.

I was also told I was over feeding. I was doing two very small pinches a day and according the the guy at all pets club he said during the fish in cycle you should actually do one small pinch every two days and the fish will still be fine. So Im changing that up. Ill have to figure out a way to set the vacation auto feeder to do a REALLY small daily portion while Im away.


Want to thank everyone for the help, and wish my tank good luck.
 
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