How to reduce ammonia level in the tank?

[mansiz]

How to reduce ammonia level in the tank besides changing water? The faeces of the fresh water fishes seems to get more and more, especially platies and swordtails. I find it too troublesome to keep changing water, so is there any other way?

 

[mansiz]

Hmm, I got one more question, I found a a PH 7 tablets being sold at LFS, it says if you put in one tablet, it will automatically make the water PH to 7, is this good for tropical fresh water fish? Does moving the PH to 7 helps to reduce ammonia? Or its completely different for PH and ammonia?

 

[mound]

Did you cycle your tank or is this a new setup? How big is the tank and how many fish are in it? If it's a new tank it will have ammonia because it hasn't had the chance to establish a bacterial colony to consume the ammonia and convert it to nitrite. You'll have to keep monitoring it and doing small water changes to keep the levels in check as the tank cycles.

IF this is an established tank and you are seeing high ammonia levels, then there is something else wrong. Perhaps you recently added a large number of fish? In that case, the tank needs to "grow" it's bacterial colony to handle the increased load of ammonia - in which case, do small water changes to keep the levels in check while the tank re-establishes itself.

re: PH7 tablets - I've generally found that these products aren't very good. They could cause a sudden spike (or drop) in PH which could be stressful to the fish. What pH you want your water at depends on the type of fishes (I'm not sure what platies and swordtails like.. my experience is with African cichlids..) These pH altering products tend to be quick fixes..

Find out what the appropriate pH is, and then use buffers (a more appropriate substrate for example or baking soda) to maintain the appropriate pH..

 

[loganj]

What is your current pH? Platies and swordtails are happy in 7.0-7.8 although they can probably live in water with a slightly higher or lower pH. I have used the PH 7.0, 7.5, 8.2 products and have found them to be what mound said. Temporary solutions. I would not suggest using them to try to lower pH. If your pH is not above 7.8, I would leave it alone. Be aware also that a tank that is still cycling may experience changes in pH that will level out once the tank has cycled. As for the ammonia, I agree with mound...keep doing the water changes until the cycle is complete.

 

[ConanTheLibraia]

I use ammolock with most water changes to help with the ammonia level.

 

[mound]

really?? why are your ammonia levels not normally at zero?

 

[ashesofyou]

in a healthy cycled aquairum there should be no need at all to use ammonia reducing chemicals. These chemicals can throw your tests way off, and can hinder your tank from completing it's cycle. Also, PH adjusters are generally a bad idea... it's better to have a stable PH that's a little high or a little low, than one that fluxuates all over the board. Fish get stressed from the constant rapid changes and tend to go belly-up...
In a cycled healthy aquairum that isn't over stocked you should only have to do water changes and gravel vacs. every 10 days to 2 weeks. If you aren't done cycling, and are doing water changes to help with a fish's stress, don't touch the gravel, but get the water from the top, changing only about 10% or so as needed.