New 20 Gallon Tank

[SegadorDAlmas]

I had been looking into getting an aquarium/tank for a while now, but my experience was limited to "owning" a tank when I was about 7 which my mother maintained. It was small and overcrowded. So I made it my mission to get a fish tank and establish it properly. I started vaguely looking at fish and eventually picked up an encyclopedia for aquarium & pond fish. I read through the entire book top to bottom and determined I had taught myself well enough to at least start.

On Christmas I received a 20 gallon set coming with all the essentials (I believe it was this one Amazon.com: Aqueon 17760 Deluxe Kit Aquarium: Pet Supplies) and set it up last Monday (December 26th). We purchased a sand substrate and a decorative castle. These went in before the water. We let the tank run from then on to get itself situated. Yesterday (December 31st) I picked up driftwood, two java ferns, and a banana plant which leaves it in its current state. Had my LPS still had them I would have picked up a few longfin zebra danios. We got a pH tester but completely forgot the materials required to actually change the pH.

The Tank in its current state: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HcWbAk9P4q8/Tv-nhny0nwI/AAAAAAAADVk/FzLM0aMhsnw/h301/11+-+1

I plan to move the banana plant to the foreground rather than the background.

My plan was to get the pH to about 6.7ish, soften the water, and get the temperature to about 76-78 degrees F which it currently is.

Fish wise I was planning on getting a group of longfin zebra danios, black phantom tetras, some dwarf loaches, and then a "trophy" fish. Something that could be kept singularly, is a bit bigger than the rest, and interesting. I was looking at the Farlowella catfish at my LPS but am open to other ideas.

All in all, I was just looking for some advice and seeing what my next course of action should be.

in advance.

Edit: I also want to say, I make it a point to bring my smartphone with me to the store and try to read up on any interesting fish I see to the best of my ability. The last thing I want is a fish destroying all my other ones or outgrowing my tank.

I recently saw a medusa pleco and fell in love with it, but was dismayed to find it requires at least a 28 gallon tank.

 

[Galligak]

Hello there! It's good to see that you're getting into the hobby! Just a quick question: do you know about cycling? If you put the tank up on the 26 and this is the only tank that you have(?) it's probably not cycled. Here's an article to read: I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!
I would suggest getting a API Liquid Test Kit. Don't worry about the pH so much, fish are very adjustable with that.
Read through the article, it's very helpful!
If you have any more questions just ask

 

[Mumma.of.two]

Hi and welcome to AA!

No need to adjust the pH. pH chemicals can be detrimental to to you fishes health.
You will need to cycle your tank. There are two ways to do this. Fish in or fishless. I will add some links for you to read on both.
FISHLESS
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html

FISH IN
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/artic...g-but-I-already-have-fish-What-now/Page2.html

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html

NITROGEN CYCLE
http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm
Any questions don't be afraid to ask!

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

Hello there! It's good to see that you're getting into the hobby! Just a quick question: do you know about cycling? If you put the tank up on the 26 and this is the only tank that you have(?) it's probably not cycled. Here's an article to read: I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!
I would suggest getting a API Liquid Test Kit. Don't worry about the pH so much, fish are very adjustable with that.
Read through the article, it's very helpful!
If you have any more questions just ask

Thank you for the advice. I had heard the term before and thought I had a good idea of what it entailed, but I was wrong. Next time I go to the pet store I'll go pick the kit up and go from there.

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

Glad I didn't pick up fish, it seems fishless cycling is the way to go. Thanks, you guys just saved me a decent hassle it would seem.

 

[blackmolly]

welcome to the addiction! (er... i mean hobby) it sounds like you're off to a great start, but you've got a few little things that need some help. first of all, running the tank without adding any fish or other ammonia source does absolutely nothing to help things get ready for fish. now, your LFS has given you your ammonia source, which are your fish. now, this is not a good way to get things started, as more then likely it's going to result in an untimely death for your danios. now, you have two options for what you could do.

A: return the fish and pick up some pure ammonia or fish food and the API master test kit. this is your best option, and it will result in an enviroment that will be a much more comfortable place for your fish when the time comes to replace them.

OR

B: pick up the API master kit and get ready for A LOT of water changes. if you go this route please read the link AquaKai posted above. your plants will help with the outcome, as well as the fact that danios are normally fairly hardy fish. i don't suggest this option however, as it is a lot of stress on both you and your fish, and the fish could still die regardless.

now, as for the other issue... it is more important that you DO NOT mess with the ph. as previously stated, danios are hardy fish, and can them along with the other fish you posted above will have no problem adjusting to your water's natural ph. in fact, adjusting the ph with chemicals can cause ph drops or spikes that can cause even more harm then just leaving the ph as is.

don't be discouraged about this, this is the hardest part, and we all have to start somewhere.

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

welcome to the addiction! (er... i mean hobby) it sounds like you're off to a great start, but you've got a few little things that need some help. first of all, running the tank without adding any fish or other ammonia source does absolutely nothing to help things get ready for fish. now, your LFS has given you your ammonia source, which are your fish. now, this is not a good way to get things started, as more then likely it's going to result in an untimely death for your danios. now, you have two options for what you could do.

A: return the fish and pick up some pure ammonia or fish food and the API master test kit. this is your best option, and it will result in an enviroment that will be a much more comfortable place for your fish when the time comes to replace them.

OR

B: pick up the API master kit and get ready for A LOT of water changes. if you go this route please read the link AquaKai posted above. your plants will help with the outcome, as well as the fact that danios are normally fairly hardy fish. i don't suggest this option however, as it is a lot of stress on both you and your fish, and the fish could still die regardless.

now, as for the other issue... it is more important that you DO NOT mess with the ph. as previously stated, danios are hardy fish, and can them along with the other fish you posted above will have no problem adjusting to your water's natural ph. in fact, adjusting the ph with chemicals can cause ph drops or spikes that can cause even more harm then just leaving the ph as is.

don't be discouraged about this, this is the hardest part, and we all have to start somewhere.

Like I said, I went to pick up the danios, but luckily never did. They had actually sold out by the time I got there! So now I have to go pick up the stuff to start cycling.

 

[Mumma.of.two]

Fish in or fishless will resuilt in the tank being cycled in the end. fish in does require more work (daily water changes) but can be done safely without harming a fish (I have done all 7 of my tanks this way). If you choose fishless I suggest using pure ammonia to cycle not fish food. With the bottled ammonia you have more control over the dosage and (in theory) can cycle your tank to handle a full stock list instantly. Fish food only produces a small amount of ammonia, is messy and can cause algae blooms from the excess in phosphates.

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

Fish in or fishless will resuilt in the tank being cycled in the end. fish in does require more work (daily water changes) but can be done safely without harming a fish (I have done all 7 of my tanks this way). If you choose fishless I suggest using pure ammonia to cycle not fish food. With the bottled ammonia you have more control over the dosage and (in theory) can cycle your tank to handle a full stock list instantly. Fish food only produces a small amount of ammonia, is messy and can cause algae blooms from the excess in phosphates.

Well I'd rather not endanger my fish due to my inexperience, besides, who doesn't want less work when possible?

I'll have to out, most likely tomorrow, to pick up the pure ammonia.

Anything else I should know about after the cycling, or any ideas for the showpiece fish I mentioned earlier?

 

[Mumma.of.two]

Well I'd rather not endanger my fish due to my inexperience, besides, who doesn't want less work when possible?

I'll have to out, most likely tomorrow, to pick up the pure ammonia.

Anything else I should know about after the cycling, or any ideas for the showpiece fish I mentioned earlier?

Fishless it is then! Make sure the ammonia does not contain perfumes or detergents. Shake the bottle and if it foams it no good. You will need a test kit too. I recommend the API fresh water liquid master test kit. You don't want to use strips because they are known for giving inaccurate readings.

Is your new tank a 20g long or tall? That will determine what fish will be suitable. The danios will work in the long but not the tall because they need more horizontal swimming space than it can provide. The tetras is will need to look up but from memory they are too large/active for a 20g. A dwarf gourami, sunset honey gourami, Molly, a trio of platys or guppies, a Betta, etc are good centre piece fish for a 20g but some need a long. You could do a small school of cories, kuhli loaches or a bristlenose pleco for the bottom.

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

Fishless it is then! Make sure the ammonia does not contain perfumes or detergents. Shake the bottle and if it foams it no good. You will need a test kit too. I recommend the API fresh water liquid master test kit. You don't want to use strips because they are known for giving inaccurate readings.

Is your new tank a 20g long or tall? That will determine what fish will be suitable. The danios will work in the long but not the tall because they need more horizontal swimming space than it can provide. The tetras is will need to look up but from memory they are too large/active for a 20g. A dwarf gourami, sunset honey gourami, Molly, a trio of platys or guppies, a Betta, etc are good centre piece fish for a 20g but some need a long. You could do a small school of cories, kuhli loaches or a bristlenose pleco for the bottom.

It's longer than it is tall, but it's not narrow. So I'm not 100% sure. I linked the tank in the original post I believe, and I have some pictures in my gallery.

 

[Mumma.of.two]

It's longer than it is tall, but it's not narrow. So I'm not 100% sure. I linked the tank in the original post I believe, and I have some pictures in my gallery.

I like the castle It looks like a tall.

 

[Galligak]

It's longer than it is tall, but it's not narrow. So I'm not 100% sure. I linked the tank in the original post I believe, and I have some pictures in my gallery.

The best way to find out is to measure.

 

[blackmolly]

ACE hardware sells very concentrated pure ammonia.

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

The best way to find out is to measure.

I just used a piece of paper to measure (Can't find my ruler). Seems like it's about 24 inches long and 14 inches high from the front (glass only), and it extends about 12 inches back. These are rough estimates.

 

[Galligak]

I just used a piece of paper to measure (Can't find my ruler). Seems like it's about 24 inches long and 14 inches high from the front (glass only), and it extends about 12 inches back. These are rough estimates.

Yup thats a 20high. Less options on some fish but there's still a bunch!

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

ACE hardware sells very concentrated pure ammonia.

We don't have ACE out here. Just Home Depot and Lowes. We don't have many things out here on the Island. ACE, Jack in the Box, Arby's, Red Robin, Carls Jr., Pizza Hut are all things we see commercials for, but can't actually shop at.

My father claims to have some at his job, he's a mechanic. I emphasized the fact that it needs to be completely pure (no detergents/dies/etc.) and he says that's what he has. When he goes back on Tuesday he'll check it out, then I'll look it over as well if he says it's okay.

 

[Mumma.of.two]

Try looking on amazon.

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

Alright thanks, I'll come back when I gather up the supplies.

 

[SegadorDAlmas]

Alright, I'm back. About a week or so ago I added fish food to the fish tank to get the cycling going being I couldn't seem to come into ammonia quickly enough for my taste, which was probably immature and stupid of me, but it's too late now.

Anyway, today I got the API Freshwater Master's and it was fantastic. I got my results back (which were kind of... Off from what I've read) which I will now share.

Note they're all rough estimates due to my lack of experience testing.

0.25 ppm Ammonia
0.00 ppm Nitrite
More than 0.00 ppm Nitrates but less than 5 ppm it seems
A pH of slightly under 7.

To me this seemed off, being I was pretty sure there were supposed to be more nitrates and nitrites. However, the pH did drop from a basic status to the ever so slightly acidic, so I figured something had to have been happening.

I just threw in more fish food in attempt to start another/the second(?) cycle.

I added conditioner (dechlorinator) each time I added water due to water loss.

I also think it's worth mentioning the state of my plants.
My banana plant is thriving. It has grown 4 new leaf stalks (giving it 7 from its original 7) and the roots/stems are growing like wildfire, frequently curling making dips in and out of the sand. It's actually quite cool.

However, my java ferns don't seem to be doing so hot. My smaller ferns are pretty brown, and are beginning to look like what I can only describe as a texture and color similar to a browning banana. Each leaf is about half green and half brown. One has even snapped, with a half an inch tip dangling off.

My other java fern is still pretty green and strong looking, but has a few brown blotches on it which weren't originally there.

I leave the tank light on for about 11-12 hours a day, which feels like a lot for low light plants, but due to the conflicting progression of the plants I'm not really sure what to do (plus I don't have many options being I leave at about 7 A.M. and get back at about 6 P.M.