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[eco23]

My only concern is the next 12 hours (well not quite 12) .. but overnight ... can't do PWC all night !!

TBH, I'm not sure how quickly a few Danios in a bucket are gonna produce ammo. I'm sure overnight they'll be perfectly fine. You'll just need to test every day and see how fast it's climbing. Before I had a QT and I set up my little emergency tank, I'd did 2 pwc's a day.

 

[MattJ]

If only the initial LFS has danios in I may never have had this problem!!

Although at least I'll be more clued up and prepared if it ever happens again but in a more established tank with more fish ... and ones I've had longer than a day!

 

[eco23]

If only the initial LFS has danios in I may never have had this problem!!

Although at least I'll be more clued up and prepared if it ever happens again but in a more established tank with more fish ... and ones I've had longer than a day!

If you end up picking up a cheap tank and filter, you can quarantine all your new additions in it for a couple weeks to make sure they're healthy before adding them to the new tank. That way you know you're not introducing any sick fish into your display tank.

 

[pantherspawn]

If known contaminated fish are in the main tank, I would treat the entire tank anyways. If you are worried about hurting your Bio filter with meds, turn up the heat in the tank and dose with aquarium salt. Should also help slightly with the fin rot as well. Tank temp should be above 86f and use recommended amount of aquarium salt. Just make sure its not marine salt. Its better to assure the safety of the whole tank than it is to worry about the Bio filter though. Your Bio can be re established.. the fish can't come back to life.

 

[eco23]

If known contaminated fish are in the main tank, I would treat the entire tank anyways. If you are worried about hurting your Bio filter with meds, turn up the heat in the tank and dose with aquarium salt. Should also help slightly with the fin rot as well. Tank temp should be above 86f and use recommended amount of aquarium salt. Just make sure its not marine salt. Its better to assure the safety of the whole tank than it is to worry about the Bio filter though. Your Bio can be re established.. the fish can't come back to life.

I really don't have first hand knowledge of ich, but you think having an infected fish in for 24 hours is definitely going to infect the whole tank? I thought only a portion of the parasites life was free swimming where they'll spread through the tank.

I'm definitely one of those better safe than sorry people, I'm just not sure treating the whole tank is needed if there are no other signs.

I'm not saying Panther is wrong by any means...I'd just have to do more research before I treated the entire tank and what appear to be perfectly healthy fish.

 

[pantherspawn]

No i wouldn't say it is for sure.. im saying I wouldn't chance the other fish getting ill. That the fish population and health is more important than the health of the Bio filter. But I would also start with raising the temp and tying aquarium salt before I would use bottled meds.

 

[Ickletas]

It is only a portion of the time that they are free swimming, but we don't know what stage of their life cycle they were at. Also we are talking about several fish who appear to have been riddled with the stuff. I think the middle ground here is to get the stuff you need to treat so that you can jump on it at the first signs, should any appear.

 

[eco23]

It is only a portion of the time that they are free swimming, but we don't know what stage of their life cycle they were at. Also we are talking about several fish who appear to have been riddled with the stuff. I think the middle ground here is to get the stuff you need to treat so that you can jump on it at the first signs, should any appear.

This is the path I would choose.

I do agree with Panther though that the life of your fish is more important than a colony of bacteria. Plus, I believe the actual meds are only effective for the free swimming stage of the life cycle.

 

[Ickletas]

We seem to be violently agreeing Eco

 

[eco23]

My other understanding is that fish are mostly susceptible to ich when they are stressed and their immune system is weakened. Since the water parameters in the tank are pristine and the Tetras are happy...I would almost be concerned that a heat and salt regiment may cause stress and trigger an outbreak which otherwise might not occur if things are left alone.

I'd go with the middle ground approach and be prepared to deal with the situation in the DT at the first sign of any trouble.

 

[pantherspawn]

Raising the temp will speed up the process and life cycle of the white spot and adding salt will keep them from being able to survive on the host once matured. And the higher temp of 88 will prevent them from reproducing. This is all of course from reading. I've only had 1 outbreak and it worked for me.

 

[pantherspawn]

I also by no means am making suggestions to the OP as what they should do.. simply giving options of courses that could be taken. Some would say to wait it out. Some would say to use meds and others would sugget heat and salt. The final choice is yours and as long as the interest of the fish is kept primary there really is no wrong choice. Above all else a lesson should be learned. Whenever purchasing new fish, observe them at the lfs hopefully for a few seperate days and watch for signs of illness. Also make sure you keep a qt tank ready for new arrivals and keep them seperate from the main tank for a few weeks minimum for observation.

 

[MattJ]

One of the Danios died over night.. did PWC before I came to work.

I'll prob get to LFS at lunch but not sure what to expect when I get home! Either way, I should be prepared in the future!

Tetras appear to be fine.

Obviously I'll want to add more fish but want to wait until I'm happy the main tank is ok.. how long would this be ideally?

 

[titchrules]

I'd certainly leave it a good 3 weeks and ensuring your water conditions are all good.
Sorry another one has died.

 

[pantherspawn]

I would say 3-4 weeks minimum. Just to make sure your fish are healthy. And after that point hopefully you have aa qt tank in place in which you would monitor any new fish for another few weeks before introduction into your main tank.

 

[MattJ]

How large does the QT need to be?

 

[eco23]

How large does the QT need to be?

10 Gallon is a good size. They're large enough for your fish to be QT'd and small enough to fit nicely in your closet while not in use

 

[MattJ]

I'll keep an eye out for some bargains ..

Danios didn't make it Guess I'll be prepared (hopefully!!!) in the future for anything like this!

In terms of a QT tank though ... I presume it needs to be cycled? If so, is the best thing to do put the filter that would be in the QT tank into the main tank and leave it in there until needed? Then add small amount of substrate, the filter and tank water to the QT tank when I come to use it?

 

[eco23]

I'll keep an eye out for some bargains ..

Danios didn't make it Guess I'll be prepared (hopefully!!!) in the future for anything like this!

In terms of a QT tank though ... I presume it needs to be cycled? If so, is the best thing to do put the filter that would be in the QT tank into the main tank and leave it in there until needed? Then add small amount of substrate, the filter and tank water to the QT tank when I come to use it?

Sorry about the Danios :-(. At least it was fast. You've got the right idea about running a second filter on the main tank to have ready to throw on a QT. A QT doesn't even need substrate, although I personally put in a small layer with a few plants so they don't feel exposed and more stressed than they already are. Just pull it out the closet, fill it with 50/50 tank water and dechlorinated water, throw on the filter and heater and you're good to go.

 

[arangarajan93]

It seems that you have low oxygen levels in your tank.