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REDmolly

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
5
Hi :). We just purchased a 5 gallon tank with filter, cover, rocks, plants, etc. we used tap water to fill it, conditioned the water twice in a week's time. We picked up a gold dust Molly on Tuesday. I acclimated it in water in bag for 15 minutes and let him out.

We're noticing he's not very active and hides a lot. He's chilling by the filter and is hanging out low by the rocks. I feed him in morning and he doesn't come up for it. I know it takes time for fish to adjust but I'm concerned. I read that they are schooling so I'm wondering if I should get one or two more fish.

Thanks :)
 
i don't think mollies are schooling. I am new so you might want to check me on that. pretty sure you will be told that 5 gallons is too small for a molly. they are pretty dirty fish(they poop LOTS). that being said your problem is probably the water. you need to get a test kit and test your water. but, I am pretty sure the fastest way to help your little guy would be to do an immediate 50% water change - make sure you are matching the water temp and conditioning the water before you add it to the tank. depending on what your test results say you may need to do more than one water change.

but the real answer is you need a bigger tank for a molly. I think they say at least a 20 -30 gallon. 5 gallons are great for bettas and shrimp (from what I have read)
 
Welcome to AA!
Just a little tip... You do not have to re-condition the water. Just put the declorinator in the water before putting the water in your tank. No need to redose. Don't worry, I don't think it would hurt your fish that you put more in. Just for future reference. :)
 
Hi :). We just purchased a 5 gallon tank with filter, cover, rocks, plants, etc. we used tap water to fill it, conditioned the water twice in a week's time. We picked up a gold dust Molly on Tuesday. I acclimated it in water in bag for 15 minutes and let him out.

We're noticing he's not very active and hides a lot. He's chilling by the filter and is hanging out low by the rocks. I feed him in morning and he doesn't come up for it. I know it takes time for fish to adjust but I'm concerned. I read that they are schooling so I'm wondering if I should get one or two more fish.

Thanks :)

Since you have a fish, you need to know your readings for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You also need to bone up on how to cycle a tank with fish in it: I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!

Your fish is likely suffering from ammonia poisoning. Please do a 50% water change immediately. Use the dechlorinator when you replace the water in the tank.

If you do not have a test kit (I recommend the API master kit), bring a water sample to the store and have them test it for you. Be sure they give you exact numbers for readings as that's what we will need to try to save your fish.

As mentioned above, this tank is too small for this species. Because they have a large bioload (are messy fish), you need at least a 10 gallon for 3 of them, but I'd recommend a 20. They are also prolific breeders and you will be overrun with fry in a short period of time.

Welcome to the forum!
 
Since you have a fish, you need to know your readings for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You also need to bone up on how to cycle a tank with fish in it: I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!

Your fish is likely suffering from ammonia poisoning. Please do a 50% water change immediately. Use the dechlorinator when you replace the water in the tank.

If you do not have a test kit (I recommend the API master kit), bring a water sample to the store and have them test it for you. Be sure they give you exact numbers for readings as that's what we will need to try to save your fish.

As mentioned above, this tank is too small for this species. Because they have a large bioload (are messy fish), you need at least a 10 gallon for 3 of them, but I'd recommend a 20. They are also prolific breeders and you will be overrun with fry in a short period of time.

Welcome to the forum!


+1 to what Lynda said (saved me from having to write it all out :)). Do at least one 50% water change with dechlorinator/conditioner ASAP, get a good test kit (ASAP :)) and read the link posted above. I doubt you'll be able to get a handle on the ammonia buildup with a Molly in a 5 gal, though.

I'd suggest either increasing the size tank ASAP or returning the fish and consider a fishless cycle while you do some research on the proper stock for a 5 gal (which unfortunately isn't much: either a single betta (and maybe some shrimp, depending on the Betta's personality), a group of 5-6 nano fish such as ember tetra, celestial pearl danio, chili rasbora or least killfish) and maybe some shrimp or/and a snail. A 5 gal tank is pretty limiting for the kind of fish you can keep in there. Welcome to AA. :)

Sorry the pet/fish stores weren't more help in telling you of cycling and proper stocking for your size tank. Unfortunately this is a common occurrence and the fish often suffer for it. :(
 
Ok. Here's my update. Spoke to pet store yesterday. No one had told me that this fish needed a heated environment. She said to save the fish to get one which we did and it's been running almost 24 hours. I also found out that the chemical given to me when I set up the tank with tap water was an ammonia detoxifier and not a water conditioner. So I've replaced that and added it to water.

We have the one Molly fish. Activity picking up a bit. But water is cloudy today. About to do water change. I'm a novice at this with the chemicals and now heater. When I take water out, do I turn filter and heater off? Do I put conditioner in water in bucket before adding it into tank? Should I add this ammonia detoxifier as well?

If I decide to return the fish, how do I transport? What should I then do with my tank? Empty and clean everything and start fresh?
 
Hi :) My replies below in blue...

Ok. Here's my update. Spoke to pet store yesterday. No one had told me that this fish needed a heated environment. She said to save the fish to get one which we did and it's been running almost 24 hours. I also found out that the chemical given to me when I set up the tank with tap water was an ammonia detoxifier and not a water conditioner. So I've replaced that and added it to water.
Good job on getting the heater. Unfortunately it won't fix the major problem which is a molly in a 5 gal uncycled tank. Did you get a test kit by any chance? What water conditoner did you end up getting?

We have the one Molly fish. Activity picking up a bit. But water is cloudy today. Cloudiness is normal, probably a bacteria bloom.
About to do water change. I'm a novice at this with the chemicals and now heater. When I take water out, do I turn filter and heater off? Do I put conditioner in water in bucket before adding it into tank? Should I add this ammonia detoxifier as well?
Since it's a molly in a 5 gal and you don't have a test kit I'd do a large a water change as you can, 50-60%. Turn the heater and filter off yes. Then drain the amount of water you are taking out. Before you add the new water, add the conditioner to the water in the bucket, swish it around a bit and then add it to the tank slowly. Try to match the temp of the new water as closely as you can to the tank water (feeling both with your hand is usually sufficient). Most conditioners/dechlorinators detoxify ammonia, cholorine, chloramine and heavy metals so I wouldn't think you'd need both, just add the conditioner. If you can tell us what brand it is it'll help us see what you have.When you're done turn the filter and heater back on.

If I decide to return the fish, how do I transport? What should I then do with my tank? Empty and clean everything and start fresh?
Put the fish with some of the tank water in a container of some sort, just make sure it's clean and it hasn't been washed with anything like dish soap or detergents.

No need to empty and clean anything if you wanted to start over. It depends on whether you want to do a fish-in cycle with fish appropriate for the size tank or fishless cycle the tank first. There's a link below in my signature: guide to starting a freshwater aquarium. The first thing it covers is cycling and has links to fish-in and fishless cycles; read both methods and decide which you would rather do then go from there.
 
Thanks :). I had done a 50% water change this morning and things look good. Molly is the most active I've seen her since we got her.

If I understand what cycling the water is, I did have the filter and water running for a week before getting the fish. Just not the heater bc we were planning on getting a goldfish.

We are getting a 10 gallon tank next week. Once things settle in there, we're going to get another Molly so she's not lonely.

The chemicals are kordon amquel and I only used the conditioner. No water tests yet.
 
If I understand what cycling the water is, I did have the filter and water running for a week before getting the fish. Just not the heater bc we were planning on getting a goldfish.

Actually, I'm afraid you really don't understand the cycling process. Please read the link I provided you above. This information will literally save the life of your fish. (y)
 
Here is librarygirl's beginners guide.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html
(if your on a phone the links in signatures don't work :))
Are you planning a goldfish in a 10g tank?
Fancy goldfish require a 20g tank for the first fish and 10g for each fish after that. eg: 2 fancies in a 30g, 3 fancies in a 40g, etc. fancy goldfish can grow 6-12 inches long so a 10g tank isn't suitable. Pond goldfish (commons, comets, koi, etc) IMO require ponds or extremely large tanks. They can reach 18 inches or well over 2 foot for koi.
 
Actually, I'm afraid you really don't understand the cycling process. Please read the link I provided you above. This information will literally save the life of your fish. (y)

Unforunately, Lynda is right... You have to have SOME source of ammonia in your tank before it can even start to cycle. You leave the water in your tank with the filter running for a day, or three months, and you still wont be any closer to the tank cycling.
 
Mumma.of.two said:
Here is librarygirl's beginners guide.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html
(if your on a phone the links in signatures don't work :))
Are you planning a goldfish in a 10g tank?
Fancy goldfish require a 20g tank for the first fish and 10g for each fish after that. eg: 2 fancies in a 30g, 3 fancies in a 40g, etc. fancy goldfish can grow 6-12 inches long so a 10g tank isn't suitable. Pond goldfish (commons, comets, koi, etc) IMO require ponds or extremely large tanks. They can reach 18 inches or well over 2 foot for koi.

I've read about this. I've had success with a goldfish in a tank of this size before. He lived seven years and I changed the water weekly. But we have Molly now :)

I'll read up on cycling. Thank you!
 
You need atleast a 20 gallon for mollies. A 20 gallon long is nice.

Mollies don't school, but they are more active when other fish are around. Females are quite peaceful. Males aren't too bad. In a 20 gallon, they won't attack another male usually - but if they are sailfins they'll flare their fins a bit and then swim to another part of the tank, maybe with some of chasing. I wouldn't do more than two males in a 20 gallon. Make sure you have females to balance them out.

Male fish pester female fish. One male to two females is good. You will get babies. Mollies are livebearers, which mean they do not lay eggs. The eggs are "incubated" in the pregnant mollie until she is ready to give birth. A lot of female mollies are pregnant at the pet store, so you may end up with some fry even if you don't have the intention of having little fish. The mollies will eat their young. If you're not okay with that, lots of plants make nice hiding places. Java Moss is especially good. If you want, you can always use the 5 gallon for the fry until they're big enough to not be swallowed. When the female is looking particularly large, place her in the tank (make sure it's cycled and heated), and she'll eventually get around to the birth process.

You also have the option of getting a tank divider. Leave a decent amount of space for the mollie - ideally she'll be able to swim around. The advantage to this is that you don't need a separate tank that needs to cycle. The disadvantage is that it will take away space from the other fish (Though this is temporary). I do not suggest the tank divider if you have more than the one male to two female fish ratio. There will not be enough space for the fish.

If you decide to get eight fish or so (two males and six females), you will need to clean the tank and change water more frequently. Everyone is right when they say mollies are messy. You can do eight mollies in a 20 gallon in my experience and they will be happy provided the tank is healthy and scrupulously maintained. However, if you do that you will not be able to add more fish, and you will not be able to keep any young (Which you probably won't want to. Give the young fish to a friend or a pet store). I say this because people people have a tendency of cramming as many fish as possible into a tank out of lack of knowledge. Eight is the max for mollies in a 20 gallon. There are species of fish that you would not want to put eight of in a 20 gallon even if they are smaller than mollies. Temperment, if they school/shoal, adult size, activity level, your willingness to keep up on extra tank maintenance, a fish's ability to play well with others, and bioload are all things to consider when stocking a tank. One inch per fish per gallon does not work. By that logic, you'd have one mollie in a four gallon tank, and three mollies in a 12ish gallon tank, and so on. It's not healthy for one mollie to be in a 4 gallon tank, but it does get to a point where you can have more than enough room for a larger number of fish.

Fry need very small food. You can buy fry food at the pet store, which is what I've used in the past. You could probably also pulverise flake food or give them some very young brine shrimp. Brine shrimp are easy to grow, and it would be another use for that 5 gallon tank!

Mollies are omnivores, but they're closer to the vegetarian spectrum. They need the veggie stuff. Buy a flake food that has spirulina in it, or you can use "regular food" and add spirulina. They do eat green algae, but it won't be enough to meet their veggie needs (or clean your tank!). Do not buy the "food for all tropical fish." It doesn't actually meet the needs of any tropical fish.

Mollies are tropical fish, speaking of. They can be found near Florida and other various parts of warmer climate areas. They naturally live in brackish water, and some even make their way to the ocean. They're very adaptable fish. It isn't necessary to keep mollies in brackish water, however. It is unlikely that the mollies you purchased were bred and raised in brackish water. Should you have taken a fish finding expedition or purchased from a breeder who uses brackish water, adding salt wouldn't be a bad idea. Even still, mollies adapt quickly to varying salinities.

Speaking of tropical, mollies do pretty well in the high seventies to low eighties, atleast in my experience.

If you decide to get snails and they end up spawning, you can feed the young snails - maybe twoish days old, you'll have an idea as the shells look nearly translucent and the snails are very small - to the mollies by flicking them off the glass. The mollies will make a strong effort to eat them. If the snails are really bothering you, you can put a slice of cucumber in the tank overnight. Use something to weigh it down (pet stores typically sell clips). In the morning, you should have a decent number of snails on the cucumber. Either throw the snails in the garbage or give them away. Absolutely do not throw them outside, flush them down the toilet/drain, or "rehome" them to a nearby body of water. There is a chance this could screw up your local ecosystem.

Snails will find their way into your tank via live plants or you introducing them purposefully. Rinse live plants in a bucket prior to putting them in your tank. If you choose to purchase snails, buy something that won't breed or get something you can live with. I had some prolific-breeding snails that were a nice redish-amberish color. They weren't particularly big, they didn't make a mess, and they ate green algae. We'd flick the babies off of the glass for "fish treats," but they weren't very bothersome. There were a lot of them. I'm kind of one of those people who feels that if it isn't killing my tank, my fish, or my equipment, I don't care. I'm a bit of an oddball like that, though.

Speaking of, do not ever ever ever use chemical snail killer. Not good for your fish at all. Be wary of snail eating fish. One type of fish, loaches, are often advertised as snail eaters. They do eat snails, but they need additional food as well. Oh, and they get huge.

Hope that helps. Definitely do some poking around. I tried to cover as much as possible, but I wouldn't be surprised if I missed something.
 
Molly is doing well did a PH test today and it was 1.0. What does that mean? Do I need to add something to the water?
 
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