nitrite means I am cycling correct???

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soh15

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
47
Location
Saint Louis MO
I have a nitrite spike right now. I just need to keep up my PWC to keep it under control correct??? Then it will go down to 0 once it cycles?
 
So just make sure I keep doing PWC's daily, nitrate was starting to come up yesterday so guess that is good too. Should I add some salt? And Thanks For you quick reply,,,
 
Most FW tanks do not require salt. This mostly depends on what you plan to stock the tank with. If for example brackish types (mollies, platys) then yes. Otherwise, it is totally unnecessary.
 
Is this for sw or a fw tank? I know where you posted it, just want to make sure.

...and your very WELCOME!!! :wink:
 
I think it would be better to throw in a bit of live anacharis or hornwort (plant). They will allow enough ammonia & nitrite for your bacteria but goble up enough to keep your fish from being stressed.
 
Cool, I Just put some live plant in last night, and also I think I feed too much, Will feed once a day for 2 minutes, or maybe every othe day. Is that correct? And I have AMMO LOCK, BUt guess I will not use it.
 
Hi soh15,
Like frog girl says, the live plants will help the fish by controlling the ammonia and nitrite, but will still leave enough for the bacteria to grow and finish cycling your tank. The Ammo-lock product will take the ammonia away from your fish, but then I don't know if the ammonia that's absorbed by the Ammo-lock is available to the good bacteria. So, you may be "starving" the bacteria and your cycle will stop or stall. I would just go with the plants you put in there, stay away from this type of ammonia-absorbing chemical, do daily water changes if necessary (I did daily water changes for three solid weeks once so I know how it is) and it wouldn't hurt to feed every other day during this time of high nitrites.

Do you have an ammonia test yet? The fact that the nitrites are high probably means you are done with your ammonia spike, and it will be 0. You should always have an ammonia test kit on hand though, but keep doing your water changes until nitrites are 0 too. Depending on your bio-load, nitrates will be anywhere from 20-40 ppm. Usually, you don't get under 20 ppm nitrates unless you have live plants (which you do) or have a light bio-load. A cycled tank will always register 0 ammonia and nitrites, and the nitrates are lowered each week with the partial water change. If you can, though, get test-tube type kits. I did have a strip kit once, and it always said 20 ppm nitrates, no matter what I tested -- aquarium, tap, or bottled water.
 
In addition to agreeing with An t-iasg about the test strips, I want to point out that you shouldn't trust the readings from the nitrate test if you have any measureable nitrites. Nitrate tests convert nitrate back to nitrite and then measure the nitrite. By checking the level of nitrite in the test water after the conversion, you can tell what the nitrate levels are. If you already have nitrite in the water, it will be read by the test and results will not be accurate.
 
So glad you pointed that out about nitrate test kits, Logan - that is something I often forget when people are going through a cycle. You can't accurately measure nitrAte with a test kit, so that is why the nitrate test has two reagent bottles. Just forget about nitrate until you have nitrite zeroed out.
 
TankGirl said:
So glad you pointed that out about nitrate test kits, Logan - that is something I often forget when people are going through a cycle. You can't accurately measure nitrAte with a test kit, so that is why the nitrate test has two reagent bottles. Just forget about nitrate until you have nitrite zeroed out.

This makes so much sense that it should be included in any Nitrogen Cycle test threads.

Good going Logan!
 
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