NitrITE Spike AFTER adding Bio-Spira

[FrogFan23]

I am having an unusual experience with the Bio-Spira. The impression a got from every review and forum topic I have read on the experience of others was that the ammonia and nitrITE wouldn't spike to dangerous levels while Bio-Spira cycled the tank. However, when I tested Wednesday night, my nitrITE had spiked to 5 ppm.

The tank I am cycling is a 15Gal with approx. 11 gallons of water. I set up the tank for quarantine purposes with a sponge filter and no substrate. I just picked up a proper aquarium light and installed it today. I am maintaining a aquarium salt dosage of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. I did a 90% water change prior to adding the Bio-Spira and brought the initial ammonia level down to 1.0 ppm and the nitrITE to zero. I introduced the Bio-Spira on Monday night.

All I have in the tank is a 6cm SVL african clawed frog. (SVL means Snout to Vent Length, excluding legs.)

Since Tuesday morning, the ammonia levels have been steady at about 2 ppm. The nitrITE levels stayed around 0.5 ppm until Wednesday night. Depending on the test kit I used, the current level is between 1.6 ppm (Nutrafin) or 5.0 ppm (API). I am more inclined to trust the accuracy of the API test myself.

The mail-order store told me that I can start doing partial water changes 3 - 4 days after introducing the Bio-Spira. I did a 6-gallon (~50%) water change last night. When I tested this morning, the ammonia was at 1 ppm and the nitrITE was somewhere between 2 and 5 ppm (I found it difficult to make out).

Should I continue to be concerned about the nitrITE levels and perhaps do another 50% PWC?

 

[SCFatz]

Bio spira is often hit or miss.When it works it seems to work well.When it doesn't...well...it doesn't.Was it shipped cool?In order for the product to work it must stay cool,but not be frozen.

Are you testing for any nitrates?

Also you mention this is to be a a quarintine tank.Does this mean you have another,established tank already?If so you can transfer some used filter media to the new tank (cartridge ect).That will, without a doubt, introduce the bacteria that is needed (and what the bio spira is supposed to bring) that will convert everything to the less harmful nitrates.

I'm not at all sure what levels your frog can tolerate,but if its ok to change water,I'd change another 50%.

 

[Voodoo Chilli]

Bio spira is often hit or miss.When it works it seems to work well.When it doesn't...well...it doesn't.

Although people can get defective/mishandled doses of Bio-Spira, it's darn near foolproof IF USED PROPERLY. It is meant to be added to a BRAND NEW tank-- not one that's already begun the cycling process. The 1.0 PPM of ammonia completely throws the success curve out the window. Yes, it probably will still work, but you'll have to continue to do the water changes to keep the harmful ammonia and nitrite levels to a minimum.

If you're going to use B-S in a tank that's already begun cycling, it's best to completely restart the tank, thus allowing the Bio-Spira to do what it's supposed to in the manner it was meant to do it.

 

[7Enigma]

Bio spira is often hit or miss.When it works it seems to work well.When it doesn't...well...it doesn't.

Although people can get defective/mishandled doses of Bio-Spira, it's darn near foolproof IF USED PROPERLY. It is meant to be added to a BRAND NEW tank-- not one that's already begun the cycling process. The 1.0 PPM of ammonia completely throws the success curve out the window. Yes, it probably will still work, but you'll have to continue to do the water changes to keep the harmful ammonia and nitrite levels to a minimum.

If you're going to use B-S in a tank that's already begun cycling, it's best to completely restart the tank, thus allowing the Bio-Spira to do what it's supposed to in the manner it was meant to do it.

This makes no sense to me. Biospira seems to be a cocktail composed of ammonia to nitrIte and nitrIte to nitrAte converting bacteria. These would thrive in elevated ammonia and nitrIte levels, not kill/stop their reproduction.

Most likely, the batch you got was bad. It might have been refrigerated when you purchased it, but if it ever reached room temp during shipping, its worthless.

Definately move as much filter media and substrate from your other tank to this tank, and do a 70-90% PWC NOW. Any living Biospira present in the tank will have adhered to the filter/glass/substrate by now, so there is no risk of "flushing" your money if you do a PWC.

 

[FrogFan23]

Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I mail-ordered the Bio-Spira from The Lighthouse, which has the best reputation for the freshest product in the market. They pack it with cold packs. It took a week to get to me but it was still cool when it arrived.

I always seem to have problems with starting the nitrIte to nitrAte bacteria culture in my tanks. Even with my previous tanks, which I cycled using Stability, the Nitrobacter / Nitrospira took a long time to establish itself. Perhaps it is something about my water or the temperature in my tanks. Being cold-water creatures, I keep the temperature below 23 C. The quarantine tank is at 21 C.

I did an 8 gallon PWC last night and got the ammonia to between 0.5 and 1.0 ppm. The nitrIte was down to 1.0 ppm. I haven't tested this morning yet.

 

[7Enigma]

I always seem to have problems with starting the nitrIte to nitrAte bacteria culture in my tanks. Even with my previous tanks, which I cycled using Stability, the Nitrobacter / Nitrospira took a long time to establish itself. Perhaps it is something about my water or the temperature in my tanks. Being cold-water creatures, I keep the temperature below 23 C. The quarantine tank is at 21 C.

That is absolutely correct, Nitrobacter is much more inhibited in cold water than Nitrosomas. They also prefer a lower pH (7.3-7.5 is optimum).

 

[Voodoo Chilli]

If you bought it from Bernie at the Lighthouse, you got good stuff (that's my local shop). He goes through the stuff so quickly, it never sits in the store, getting old. He's got the shipping thing done to a T, as well.


As far as why it doesn't work so well in tanks already cycling:

Fish begin excreting waste the second they're introduced to the tank. You add to it when you begin feeding. If the B-S is added at the same time, it starts with a clean slate-- no "catching up" is needed. The bacteria have a food source from the beginning; they also begin to "self-regulate" their numbers based on the bio-load in the tank. This is why you don't have to worry about overdosing a tank with B-S, unneeded bacteria dies off. If there are no elevated levels of ammonia or nitrite for the bacteria to fend off, the whole process is smooth and simple, with little, if any, detectable spikes or surges. In instances (such as this one) where there already is ammonia present, the B-S has to overcome those levels. Yes, it usually does succeed, but that's not what it was intended to do.

 

[JRagg]

Did you shake the bag vigorously before adding it?

Honestly it probably is working. It assumes you start with zero ammonia, and from there the levels should stay low. Since you had a measurable amount of ammonia, the biospira quickly converted that to nitrite, and the nitrifiying bacteria hasn't caught up yet. Keep an eye on it and PWC if necessary. It's likely that levels will drop in the next day or so.

 

[FrogFan23]

Did you shake the bag vigorously before adding it?

Honestly it probably is working. It assumes you start with zero ammonia, and from there the levels should stay low. Since you had a measurable amount of ammonia, the biospira quickly converted that to nitrite, and the nitrifiying bacteria hasn't caught up yet. Keep an eye on it and PWC if necessary. It's likely that levels will drop in the next day or so.

Yep. I'm one of those "rare" guys that tends to read the instructions first ...

Since I posted my last message, my daily water changes have brought the ammonia level to 0.5 ppm and my nitrIte is wavering between 0.5 ppm and 2.0 ppm. The ammonia seems to be on the decrease. The nitrIte levels drop to 0.5 ppm after every 50% PWC and climb to no more than 2.0 ppm before the next water change. My frog seems to be doing okay.