No Nitrites Yet?

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InfernoST

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
May 14, 2009
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Hi everyone
I'm not quite sure exactly what is going on with my new tank, unfortunately I'm cycling the tank with fish. It's been online for 9 days, ammonia is present an am doing daily 20% water changes to keep it in check, I am not seeing any indications of nitrites yet. The fish (Africans) seem to be very happy and active with no apparent signs of stress. When should I see signs of Nitrites in the tank? My Tank parameters are below

PH = 7.5
Hardness = 5
Ammonia = 0.25 mg/l (Fluctuating and controlling with 20% WC daily)
Nitrite = <0.3 mg/l
Nitrate = 12.5 mg/l (This level seems to be coming from the Tap)
Temp = 79.4
Tank = 44 gallon pentagon
Lighting = 2 20" normal flourescent strip lights ( on time 12 to 14 hrs a day)
Heater = 200 watt
Filter = Eheim 2215
Undergravel = 1 Eheim Aquaball 1212 power head
Water Clarity = clear
Fish Friends = 9 Africans 1 to 1 1/2 inches in length

If there is anything i missed please let me know, I'm not sure if the tank is heading in the right direction and can use some help.

Thanx:usa
 
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You're headed in the right direction. It can take a while for nitrite to start to show up. When your nitrite starts to build up, you'll notice that your ammonia will eventually hit 0 and stay there for the most part. The nitrite spike can last as much as a couple of weeks, then you'll see it hit 0 and your nitrate will start to creep up. When your ammonia and nitrite hold steady at 0 and you have a nitrate reading that's higher than what you have now (assuming it's coming from the tap), your tank has cycled. I would strongly advise against adding any more fish until the tank cycles- it will just add to the work, LOL. :)
 
9 days is way too early to expect progress, even if you were doing a fishless cycle with a high ammonia level. Given that you're changing out water to save your fish, don't be surprised if it takes 3 weeks to see nitrite, and longer times have been reported. Shorter times have happened too, but don't get impatient yet. You're in for a long fight to keep those fish, but it does get easier later on.
 
You're headed in the right direction. It can take a while for nitrite to start to show up. When your nitrite starts to build up, you'll notice that your ammonia will eventually hit 0 and stay there for the most part. The nitrite spike can last as much as a couple of weeks, then you'll see it hit 0 and your nitrate will start to creep up. When your ammonia and nitrite hold steady at 0 and you have a nitrate reading that's higher than what you have now (assuming it's coming from the tap), your tank has cycled. I would strongly advise against adding any more fish until the tank cycles- it will just add to the work, LOL. :)
severum mama
Thanks for replying, as long as I'm heading in the right direction then all is good. I managed to convince my 5 year old that we can only buy decorations for the tank and can't get anymore fish until the tank sets up. The kids love the tank and their fish selections.

Thanx
 
9 days is way too early to expect progress, even if you were doing a fishless cycle with a high ammonia level. Given that you're changing out water to save your fish, don't be surprised if it takes 3 weeks to see nitrite, and longer times have been reported. Shorter times have happened too, but don't get impatient yet. You're in for a long fight to keep those fish, but it does get easier later on.
qzeiger
I'll keep up the fight. I have to make rig to make the water changes more of a plug and play deal. Do you know how long Africans can deal with elevated ammonia readings? I have managed to perform 20% changes everyday thus far, would it be detrimental if i missed a day?

Thanx
 
I only keep native fish and don't know much about African cichlids specifically. For any fish though, the answer is that it depends on the level. The elevated pH (yours seems a bit low) usually recommended for Africans makes ammonia more toxic. I thought Africans needed a higher pH and much higher GH, but if they are doing ok in what you have I wouldn't try to change those things until the cycle is done. Time to research their actual needs instead of taking my word for it would be a good thing too.

Usually the recommendation is that ammonia should not exceed 1 ppm and nitrite should not exceed 0.5 ppm just before the water change. Nearly all fish will survive levels above that, but ammonia can cause permanent damage since it "burns" the gills, and both weaken the fish, making them much more susceptible to opportunistic diseases (another good reason not to add new fish that might be carrying diseases at this time). Nitrite will not cause permanent damage, but is significantly more toxic and the level needs to be kept lower.

An airstone and slightly cooler temperature may help some with nitrite since the mechanism of toxicity is oxygen displacement by binding with hemoglobin - higher levels of dissolved oxygen should make it easier for the fish to breathe.
 
I only keep native fish and don't know much about African cichlids specifically. For any fish though, the answer is that it depends on the level. The elevated pH (yours seems a bit low) usually recommended for Africans makes ammonia more toxic. I thought Africans needed a higher pH and much higher GH, but if they are doing ok in what you have I wouldn't try to change those things until the cycle is done. Time to research their actual needs instead of taking my word for it would be a good thing too.

Usually the recommendation is that ammonia should not exceed 1 ppm and nitrite should not exceed 0.5 ppm just before the water change. Nearly all fish will survive levels above that, but ammonia can cause permanent damage since it "burns" the gills, and both weaken the fish, making them much more susceptible to opportunistic diseases (another good reason not to add new fish that might be carrying diseases at this time). Nitrite will not cause permanent damage, but is significantly more toxic and the level needs to be kept lower.

An airstone and slightly cooler temperature may help some with nitrite since the mechanism of toxicity is oxygen displacement by binding with hemoglobin - higher levels of dissolved oxygen should make it easier for the fish to breathe.
gzeiger
They do require a higher pH, I'm planning on elevating it to around 8.0 after the tank cycles. What your saying is I should get as much air in the tank as possible until it cycles. As of now I have 2 Eheim aquaball 1212's going full out for my undergravel, is this enough or should i get an air pump and a couple of air stones?

Thanx
 
Sounds like a good plan. Airstones are not necessary, just an added bonus. The lower pH also helps with ammonia toxicity, but as far as I know won't help with nitrite. You should be fine if you keep to the schedule.
 
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