pH etc levels

[Mrs.h2012]

What levels should your pH, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite be at when cycling is completed and the tank is ready for fish? I still have to get ammonia and nitrate and nitrite testing kits, I already have the pH testing kit. And also if someone can explain, or if linking an article is easier that's awesome too, why these levels need to be where they do... That would be awesome! I've done some pH tests already and both have been at 7.6.. One test was done around 8 this morning and the other was done around 8 tonight if that makes a difference. The filter I was given doesn't work and even after trying advice from some members here still isn't working, I won't be able to get a filter until tomorrow, Sunday at the latest. A member told me to
keep the old carbon cartridge and the floss in the aquarium until I get a new filter and use those instead of the new ones when I get a new filter, which I'm doing and will do. Thanks!

 

[Convict2161]

pH depends on the type of fish. 7.6,7.8,8.0,8.2

Ammonia you want 0ppm

NitrAtes you'll see 5/10 sometimes 20ppm that's ok

You want no nitrites.

My tank always has 0 ammonia/ 0 nitrites and about 10 to 20 nitrAtes. My pH is 8.0/8.2 I have African Cichlid's so they like harder water.

Hope this helps.

 

[bud29]

Yes, the con basically nailed it. I also wanted to point out that some fish can live in a somewhat higher or lower pH than what is recommended for them as long as the pH is steady. Of course, you don't want to put a fish that thrives with a pH of 5-6 in a tank with 8.4 pH water, but if you go a little above or below recommendations that is fine, in those cases stability is more important. pH fluctuations are very harmful, that is why "pH down" products really don't help as they wear off and cause a fluctuation. It looks like your pH is perfectly neutral at 7.6 so many fish will be happy with that. (I don't have that luxury with a tap water pH of 8.4!)

 

[Andrew McFadden]

I think I may add to what the con said here

1) Your ammonia and nitrite will kill your fish after time.

2) nitrate is ok under 40ppm so we try to keep them as low as we can. Normal is like what con said. High amounts of nitrate for a long period of time is not good thing.

 

[Mrs.h2012]

I have tap water as well and use the drops that take out chlorine and all that other junk in tap water.

 

[Andrew McFadden]

Yes, the con basically nailed it. I also wanted to point out that some fish can live in a somewhat higher or lower pH than what is recommended for them as long as the pH is steady. Of course, you don't want to put a fish that thrives with a pH of 5-6 in a tank with 8.4 pH water, but if you go a little above or below recommendations that is fine, in those cases stability is more important. pH fluctuations are very harmful, that is why "pH down" products really don't help as they wear off and cause a fluctuation. It looks like your pH is perfectly neutral at 7.6 so many fish will be happy with that. (I don't have that luxury with a tap water pH of 8.4!)

When bud says steady he means your best not to try and change it because of the fluctuations he mentioned.

 

[bud29]

That's good. A dechlorinator is a must.

 

[Nimo]

When bud says steady he means your best not to try and change it because of the fluctuations he mentioned.

Yes you understood that correctly. Don't try to change your Ph. I wish mine was that low mine straight from tap is 8.2-8.6. I have very hard water.
I always recommend Prime for water conditioner it covers a broader range of water issues than most others. You only have to buy one bottle of chemical instead of several different ones for different problems.
Good luck with your tank!

 

[Mrs.h2012]

I believe the brand or the dechlorinator that I use is Wardley.