PH, nitrates, and RO
- Thread starter MDDad
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TMaier
Aquarium Advice Addict
What else is in the tank?
Fresh2o
Aquarium Advice Addict
If it's time to do a water change, then yes do so. If it's because of the pH, I would either hold off or do a smaller one. I think stability is more important than achieving a target pH range.
To determine the root cause, you could take a portions of the gravel (and anything else in the tank such as rocks, decor), place them in separate containers, and add DI water. Measure the pH now and then the next day. This should help narrow down the culprit.
To determine the root cause, you could take a portions of the gravel (and anything else in the tank such as rocks, decor), place them in separate containers, and add DI water. Measure the pH now and then the next day. This should help narrow down the culprit.
Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
Why don't you leave a cup of water out over night to see how much the ph changes once it's stabilised?
Plain tap water stabilizes at about 7.2.
I did a 75% PWC. Used water from the outside spigot, bypasses are neutralizer, because I'm starting to wonder if the calcite from the neutralizer is having some kind of an effect with something.
I'll give the pH a day or two and check it, and if it still goes up I may just try to let it be and see if I can keep it stable and see what happens.
On a sidenote, I had to add more ammonia to try to keep the fishless cycling going. I might've added a touch too much, it's testing a bit over 4.0 ppm, but still seems to be less than 8, which is the next color category On the API chart. Is that probably OK if I just leave it be?
I did a 75% PWC. Used water from the outside spigot, bypasses are neutralizer, because I'm starting to wonder if the calcite from the neutralizer is having some kind of an effect with something.
I'll give the pH a day or two and check it, and if it still goes up I may just try to let it be and see if I can keep it stable and see what happens.
On a sidenote, I had to add more ammonia to try to keep the fishless cycling going. I might've added a touch too much, it's testing a bit over 4.0 ppm, but still seems to be less than 8, which is the next color category On the API chart. Is that probably OK if I just leave it be?
Fresh2o
Aquarium Advice Addict
I forgot about the well water source and neutralizer.
As for the ammonia, I like to keep it between 2-4 ppm during a fishless cycle. A common complaint is the sky high nitrite levels once that conversion takes place. Coupled that with the lengthy nitrite to nitrate phase, it can get frustrating. Lower ammonia will result in less nitrite. Just my take on it.
As for the ammonia, I like to keep it between 2-4 ppm during a fishless cycle. A common complaint is the sky high nitrite levels once that conversion takes place. Coupled that with the lengthy nitrite to nitrate phase, it can get frustrating. Lower ammonia will result in less nitrite. Just my take on it.
Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
FishMommy8962
Aquarium Advice Regular
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- Nov 6, 2016
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Wouldn't PFS be good too? Hard to find sometimes, though. I saw some at Home Depot, 50 lbs for $5. Meanwhile, the Petsmart stuff is like, 5 lbs for $10 
FishMommy8962
Aquarium Advice Regular
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2016
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- 89
Dang it. I need to realize that there's more of the thread before I start posting 
If it is a bit over 4, should I do a PWC or just let it sit?
I've seen some who seem to find that as long as it is under 8ppm, it will cycle, but might actually take a bit longer due to being too much.
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