Quick Start API, How to use it correctly? My new fish are unhappy!

[ABee]

Hello,

I recently got a new tank and used API's Quick Start to immediately add fish. I was skeptical, so I talked to someone at the fish store who said that it really does work!

My fish tank does not seem to be responding to it correctly. My ammonia levels are high - between 2 and 4, as well as my nitrites being high (Not sure of exact measurement). I have been doing water changes every other day (20-25%) I have added a bit of stress zyme as well, but my fish really are not seeming healthy.

A lot of my fish have one pectoral fin that just won't move - it is sticking out and will not aid in swimming at all - from what I have gathered this is due in part to stress from bad water quality.

I really am not sure what to do. I wish that I would have followed my gut and done a normal cycle, without the quick start addition, but it is too late! I was wondering if anyone else has used this quick start stuff from API successfully and if so, how? Also, if anyone knows anything else I can do for the fins with the useless pectoral fins, that would be awesome!

Thanks.

 

[anibis]

The bacteria in a bottle stuff is really hit or miss, mostly miss.

How big is the tank? What kinda fishies/how many do you have stocked in it?

It's no surprise your fish aren't doing well with high ammonia+nitrites. Anything over .5ppm is bad, you really want to keep both around .25ppm or lower.

The best thing you can do is change water to get ammonia+nitrite levels down. It's going to take several 50% changes to get the levels in an acceptable range. I would change 50% immediately, then another 50% after a few hours or tomorrow. Most say you can do 2 50% changes a day separated by a few hours. Others say you can do more, but I'm not sure. Your fish are already stressed, and too big of a water chemistry change might shock them.

It would also be beneficial to use Prime (water conditioner) to detoxify some of the ammonia/nitrite until you are able to get it down.

Make sure you use a dechlorinator and match the water temperature. You don't have to use a thermometer, although you may want to since your fish are already stressed. If you don't have access to a thermometer then go by feel, you should be able to get it within a degree or two.

Really the only thing you can do to limit ammonia/nitrite production while cycling is to feed sparingly, once a day or every other day, and only as much as they can eat in a minute or so.

 

[ABee]

Thanks for the info, I had no idea you could do a water change so often!

This is a 20 gallon tank, with 1 cory catfish, 3 guppies, 4 ghost shrimp and 3 african dwarf frogs and one silver loach.

Hmm.. never heard of Prime. is it similar to API's Stress Zyme?

 

[Caliban07]

Thanks for the info, I had no idea you could do a water change so often!

This is a 20 gallon tank, with 1 cory catfish, 3 guppies, 4 ghost shrimp and 3 african dwarf frogs and one silver loach.

Hmm.. never heard of Prime. is it similar to API's Stress Zyme?

No, Seachem prime is a dechlorinator and also detoxifies ammonia nitrite and nitrate for 24-48 hours. Be aware that the test kit will still show ammonia levels even though they have been detoxified.

Clamped fins is a sign of stress which could be from anything such as disease, harassment, over crowding and poor water quality. You need to get those levels right down by doing water changes as instructed by the previous poster.

You also need to use an API master test kit which is a liquid test kit. If you are using strips these are notoriously inaccurate although I have never had any experience with them personally it's common knowledge on this forum.

Also bacteria in a bottle is never hit or miss. It's just miss. It doesn't contain the bacteria responsible to break down ammonia nitrite. At best it contains nutrients that the bacteria use to grow but you grow the bacteria yourself with oxygen, macro and micro nutrients, a food source such as organic compounds ammonia or nitrite and time

 

[fish4phil]

You have received some really good advice here. Something to consider, and is what I did when I was in a very similar position as yourself, is to return your fish until you can properly control water quality. You didn't mention how many fish you have or what kind. If they are, for example, a hardy fish like Zebra Danio, you can do a fish in cycle. If they are a more delicate fish, like Neon Tetras, I would highly recommend returning them, if the store allows, to save the fishes lives. It's a hard decision, but one to consider. Their return policy might not be as good as ALDI Catalogue but still worth a try.

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[fish4phil]

And as far as bacteria in a bottle, please read a post I started with trouble with it. Pay close attention to the reply by Masha, which may help explain why the bacteria didn't work.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ouldnt-use-instant-cycle-bacteria-290189.html

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[Caliban07]

And as far as bacteria in a bottle, please read a post I started with trouble with it. Pay close attention to the reply by Masha, which may help explain why the bacteria didn't work.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ouldnt-use-instant-cycle-bacteria-290189.html

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Just read the thread. Yes that is the problem. Autotrophs are responsible for the cycle. Heterotrophs are what create ammonia and reproduce at an alarming rate and do not quite as important. They can also survive without oxygen. Unlike autotrophic bacteria. The need oxygen to survive. I don't think it's possible to survive the shipping and sitting on a shelf in a shop for a long time. Even if they did survive, there are many strains of autotrophic bacteria. It's been documented only recently that the nitrospira autotroph is responsible for nitrifying nitrite in aquarium set ups, not the once thought nitrobacter which are prominent in waste water facilities where there are higher levels of nitrite.

It's my opinion that bacteria in a bottle just doesn't work. I can imagine companies getting together after finding a potential for a huge money making scam. I'm not saying it doesn't contain bacteria, just not the ones we need. Mostly heterotrophs as masha pointed out.

Why don't companies do proper actual cycling Tests with their products and post results? Seems strange to me.

 

[librarygirl]

Hi and welcome. Using those products is fine, but putting faith in them isn't. Do you have your own liquid test kit? It isn't too late to do a proper fish-in cycle. Here's a guide on how to do it:
I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice
Guide to Starting a Freshwater Aquarium - Aquarium Advice

 

[Fishperson]

Well you need to do a water change fast. 20-25% water changes are really not enough, you should be doing >50% water changes to get those ammonia levels down. Also, you should get an API Master Test Kit.

 

[ABee]

No, Seachem prime is a dechlorinator and also detoxifies ammonia nitrite and nitrate for 24-48 hours. Be aware that the test kit will still show ammonia levels even though they have been detoxified.

Clamped fins is a sign of stress which could be from anything such as disease, harassment, over crowding and poor water quality. You need to get those levels right down by doing water changes as instructed by the previous poster.

You also need to use an API master test kit which is a liquid test kit. If you are using strips these are notoriously inaccurate although I have never had any experience with them personally it's common knowledge on this forum.

Also bacteria in a bottle is never hit or miss. It's just miss. It doesn't contain the bacteria responsible to break down ammonia nitrite. At best it contains nutrients that the bacteria use to grow but you grow the bacteria yourself with oxygen, macro and micro nutrients, a food source such as organic compounds ammonia or nitrite and time

Thanks! I was wondering though, you say clamped fins is a sign of stress. I was thinking that clamped fins were fins held close to the fishes body. My fish's fin is the opposite. She holds it straight out - perfectly perpendicular to her body! It is also not moving and won't aid in swimming. (Also she is pregnant...) Could this be a sign of stress, or something else?

 

[Caliban07]

Thanks! I was wondering though, you say clamped fins is a sign of stress. I was thinking that clamped fins were fins held close to the fishes body. My fish's fin is the opposite. She holds it straight out - perfectly perpendicular to her body! It is also not moving and won't aid in swimming. (Also she is pregnant...) Could this be a sign of stress, or something else?

Not sure about that one tbh. Post in unhealthy fish section.

 

[threnjen]

My fish were doing this when I poisoned them with glue (don't ask)
Holding their fins straight out, rigid. Was very bizarre.
It was definitely toxicity. This is probably ammonia toxicity.

 

[Delapool]

I have used it (hopefully I have the same one) and had thought it made a difference in cycle speed. There are some test results within this link.

http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?id=618