Setting up a 110 Gal Aquarium with sump

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Ingy

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Joined
May 16, 2012
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Location
Comox, BC, Canada
Hello everybody with advise to give and those getting ideas of their own.

Background: I had a freshwater aquarium as a kid growing up, and then for the last 20 years I was in the military (they are easier to tear down and start up after each new posting to a new place). However in 2009 I made my final move and decided to switch to a saltwater reef aquarium. Sadly, although the aquarium was on the opposite side of the front room, a south facing bay window let in too much light and I had a never ending algae issue. I finally gave up and have switched this tank back to freshwater. As I have owned this house for a long time (rented it out when I got posted to the other coast), I did have a very successful freshwater tank in the same location, so algae shouldn't be an issue going forward.
I have an extensive education in both organic and inorganic chemistry and lots of experience as it pertains to fishkeeping (especially the saltwater ones).

System: The tank is a 110 gal XH tank (I love the picture frame dimension to the tank), with an internal corner overflow and a 40 gal, 2 chamber sump (25 gal water). The first sump chamber is divided with egg crate to about 20/80%, with a filter sock (prefilter), lots of loofa sponge (for nitrification bacteria), and then a filter wall to the rest of the chamber. The remainder can house plants and any fish (fry?) I may want to isloate due to aggression or protection. the return chamber houses denitrification media and carbon bag (as required). The display tank simply has a PFS base as I do not want to put too much organic material under the sand and tempt the evil algae gods. There are a few large granite stones and a large piece of Mordenite (which I picked off the beach when I lived in Morden of all places). A single piece of aquarium driftwood is there as well, which I plan on adding to when I find an aesthetically pleasing piece. Lighting is provided by 2 Kessil 350 lights on a controller. My residential water is comes from a nearby glacier via a lake, and has a TDS of only 20 out of the tap, with most of that being the added chlorine/chloramine.

Now: After a decent cleaning and removal of the coral sand, I refilled the aquarium and started an ammonia based cycle, with a bio filter from another aquarium. After less than 4 weeks the cycle was complete and nitrates were over 100ppm. A 75% WC brought them down, and the de-nitrate media was added along with a couple plants in the sump (with a gro-light) which has lowered the nitrates to undetectable levels. However, due to the nature of my water, Alkalanity was very low. I buffered it with Baking soda (oops, got Alk up to 140ppm, pH 7.8), and have been lowering pH with acid buffer. Residual Calcium carbonate in the tank (old coraline algae) continues to add to my alk and high pH I believe.
6 Neons were added to the tank when the nitrates were lowered, and then 2 Kribensis. One of the Kribensis (the first one added) is being a brute and terrorizing the other fish. I think he has killed 2 of the neons and may find himself moved to the sump. I have had these fish in previous community tanks and never had an aggression issue despite them being of the Chichlid family.

I am moving some plants from the sump to the DT and changing the colour and intensity of the lighting to support the plants (The lights were at minimum intensity and colour was set to blue to prevent algae in the nitrate rich environment).

I will also pop by the party supply store to see what kind of CO2 bottles they can refill, and then get the matching needle valve assembly. But for now I have minimal plants so CO2 shouldn't be an issue.

Questions:
1. Has anybody got ideas for an acid buffer, as I'm not a huge fan of buying an expensive chemical additive at the fish store when the same thing can be bought elsewhere for much cheaper. Acetic acid, I'm thinking, should be good, so has anyone used vinegar to lower pH?

2. Stocking ideas. Wifey wants a community tank again, with lots of plants.

Anyhow, thanks for reading and I'll appreciate and thoughts or feedback.
Ingy:fish2:
 
I think I will be using Citric acid as by pH lowing buffer, as I suspect that is exactly what is in the bottle. Grocery store sells it much cheaper. Now to get the dosing rate.
 
Hi, pretty much following along. I was a little unsure as to why you wanted the acid buffer? I'm not knocking your expertise in doing it but wasn't sure if you were bringing the ph back down or wanted to fix the ph at a certain value. Otherwise was hoping for some pictures :)
 
I am acid dosing to lower the pH from 7.6 down to a better 7.2. Citric acid will have less of an adverse effect on the Alk than vinegar dosing. Of course, my alk is a wee bit high I think, and pH rebound is more likely. Perhaps a shot of vinegar to lower both pH and Alk may be needed.
 
I personally like rainbows in a planted tank. Discus or Angel's could be nice as well.
I'm curious as to why the need to drop the pH from 7.6 to 7.2?

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Right now I have very few plants in the aquarium. As I get more, and with the lighting I have, I should start to see significant growth, the extra oxygenation will further drive up pH. I will counter that with a CO2 system I am in the process of getting. But I would like to be around 7.2 to 7.4 before the growing starts in earnest.
 
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