Water conditioner and water change question

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Jessy2363

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Joined
Aug 8, 2014
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108
Location
Wellington, New Zealand
Hi
I was wondering...is it crucial to pre condition the water before it enters the tank or can you put water conditioner in the tank and then put in the tap water. I only ask because I normally use buckets and dechlorinate them first but I was hoping to just use an extension hose from the tab to the tank so save time. Therefore I can't really dechlorinate it first.
Also.... Can I just normal hot water from the hot water cylinder to raise the temp or does it need to be boiled cold tap water? I worry about the heavy metals coming from the hot water tank so I always boil the jug. Water changes take me ages!!! Like a good hour after I've cleaned the glass and trimmed my plants etc. My tank is 300litres. I need a short cut to save time.


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okay so you can add the water conditioner into the tank then put chlorinated water in and stir it up. Therefore I can run the water directly from the tap. What about hot water cylinder water? Do you boil up cold water or use hot water from the tap to bring it up to temperature? I know hot water tastes bad from the tap that's for sure.
 
Sorry, I said it wrong. Water conditioner should be mixed in with tap water before putting it in the tank. Does that make more sense?
 
yeah that makes sense. If that's the case, what's the alternative to using buckets then if it has to be premixed? Don't some people have some sort of plumbing system attached to their tanks for efficient water changes? Imagine if my tank was hypothetically speaking 1000 litres (which it's not) but what if it was. It would literally take me all day to do a water change carrying buckets of pre conditioned water to the tank.
 
I am new to this but from what I can tell you, conditioners work the moment you put it in your tap water. Sometimes, I leave the water sit with the conditioner for a few minutes before adding it but doesn't always happen; I always de-chlorinate it though. Your question is quite valid as you are not the only one using a hose. While someone who does use this method replies, I would go ahead and do it by treating the water on the tank right before adding the tap water. I see it safer. Please make sure that the tap water has the same temperature as the tank water before adding it.


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Water changes 101.
Shut off filter.
Shut off heater.
Remove water by whatever style. (Buckets, Elec Pump, Python, Aqueon WC'er, straw, etc)
Add dechlorinator for total tank volume to tank.
Replace water with same (or as close to) temperature water.
Turn on heater.
Turn on filter.

Note : Sitting on couch and falling asleep is VERY VERY BAD.


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Mine is an Internal filter thought not much difference on height than a HOB filter. Does the splashing affect the fish? If it does then what is the safest way to pour water back into the tank during PWC where no splashing occurs?


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What difference does it make whether leaving the filter on or off during a PWC?


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With HOB's if the water level falls below the intake, the pump will continue to run and drain out all the water. This will lead to burning out the motor. Canisters are designed to be shut off with installed valves. They are also a closed loop system that will require priming if you don't shut it off. As well as burning out the pump described above.

If it's a HOB, the water is coming from much higher above the surface.


Nothing to do with it, honestly. The only thing that would come out of it is a more oxygenated water column.

Mine is an Internal filter thought not much difference on height than a HOB filter. Does the splashing affect the fish? If it does then what is the safest way to pour water back into the tank during PWC where no splashing occurs?


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It may scare and stress some. The more often you perform WC's, the more they will get used to it and not be as skittish. I can't say there is a "safest" or "best" way to add the water back in. Many folks will point the nozzle (if using a Python/Aqueon setup) directly at the inside glass. This is somewhat helpful when you have to deal with micro bubbles.


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With HOB's if the water level falls below the intake, the pump will continue to run and drain out all the water. This will lead to burning out the motor. Canisters are designed to be shut off with installed valves. They are also a closed loop system that will require priming if you don't shut it off. As well as burning out the pump described above.

Good to know this since I am thinking of changing my filter to HOB so that the fish have more space to swim in.

I can't say there is a "safest" or "best" way to add the water back in. Many folks will point the nozzle (if using a Python/Aqueon setup) directly at the inside glass.


Good to know. I use buckets and I do my best to stream the water through the glass without splashing but doesn't always happen.

This is somewhat helpful when you have to deal with micro bubbles.


What are micro bubbles and how can they affect my fish? During PWCs, I pour the water on one side of the tank while the fish are on the other.


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And what about with using hot water from the hot water cylinder (hot tap) as opposed to boiling up some fresh cold tap water? (To bring it up to tropical temperature) Do you think it has much too many heavy metals in it? I personally think it tastes gross compared to boiled water. Surely the fish would taste that also??
 
Hi Jessy. I use half cold and half hot water to bring the WC water to tank temp. The hot comes from a copper water cylinder. I keep cherry shrimp, very intolerant of copper but they are fine and breeding like mad. I suspect the amount of dissolved heavy metals from the cylinder are minuscule especially as in any 24 hr period the tank is probably refreshed by normal domestic use.



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