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Old 07-31-2010, 01:25 PM   #31
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Well, mark this is the USA and we deal in degrees and I can't seem to find my conversion data.
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Old 07-31-2010, 04:47 PM   #32
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Hahaha....25C is room temperature. 27C is 80F, 29C is 84F

Temperature is fine, but id not let it go over 82F.

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Old 07-31-2010, 06:59 PM   #33
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Well, mark this is the USA and we deal in degrees and I can't seem to find my conversion data.

thincat we use degrees as well degree centegrade Ha Ha :p
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:27 AM   #34
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Well, I've ordered a fresh batch of salt; and I'll make up some fresh RO for my next PWC. I'll also recalibrate my TDS meter to make sure it's showing accurate readings.

Apart from this, are then any other tests I can do either in the new SW before I put it in the tank, or in the tank after a waterchange to try and find out what's happening?
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:02 AM   #35
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Guys, on another note, yesterday I noticed a lot of worms at the bottom of my tank (look like bristleworms, approx 15 of them of different sizes); never noticed these before in this tank or any before.

I guess they're not the reason for the waterchange issues, but should I be getting rid of them? If so, how?
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Old 08-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #36
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Bristleworms are not normally a problem. I noticed that after I added a bi-color pseudochromis all my bristleworms disappeared.
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:47 AM   #37
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Thanks, I'll keep an eye on the bristleworms.

I've just got some new salt to see if it was that, and I've got some TDS calibration solution on the way to test/recalibrate my TDS meter, so I'll try a water change when this arrives and will see what happens to see if I can rule these two things out.

Are there any other tests I should be doing on the new water, or after the waterchange if problems develop again, e.g. oxygen etc.?
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:40 PM   #38
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The main thing is to be consistant about what you do. Keeping your parameters stable will go a long way in keeping a reef tank.
RO/DI water, 1.025 SG, 0 ammonia,0 nitrite, keep nitrate as low as you can 20ppm's or lower, if you are keeping corals the closer to 0 the better, temp. 79 degrees to 82 degrees, again the more constant the better. If you have an algae bloom, check to see if it's the food,(frozen can be a problem) and you could check for PO3.
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Old 08-16-2010, 08:20 AM   #39
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Hi Thincat,

Thanks for the reply. My water parameters are stable and always have been (I use RO water @ <002ppm TDS), 1.025 SG, 0 ammonia/nitrate, and nitrates are approx 30ppm (no corals), pH 8.2. Temp is consistent. I feed high quality pellet/flake food usually, with the odd frozen as a treat. I will check for PO3 as well, as I have a bit of algae (not a huge amount).

Regarding the problems I've had with fish dying at each of my last 3 waterchanges, I'm going to recalibrate my TDS meter, make up some new RO, and I also have a fresh batch of salt to try, so I can at least rule out the new water. Is there anything else I should be testing for in the new water other than pH/temp/SG/TDS (before salt), to see if anything else has leeched into the water/bucket etc.?

If the new sw is okay, another issue may then be that I'm stirring up/upsetting something in my tank when I do a waterchange, although as discussed this isn't showing up as ammonia or anything that I've currently tested for, and things settle down within an hour or two. Again, is there anything I should be testing for here to see what's happening, that I'm not already?
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:01 PM   #40
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You could check for copper. Another thing If you don't have a sump, try adding your new water slower so as not to stirup the sand. Stirring up the sand may be causing hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas to be released into your tank. This is caused by dead spots in your tank. you could try to run another ph to move water around to keep this from happening. How deep is your sand? Have you added anthing new to your tank.
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