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Old 05-16-2005, 01:25 AM   #1
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2 x sick anemones, 1 x sick nudi coral but coriamorphs great

Hi,

Recently, say over the past month or two my anemones have become lifeless, usually closed or very deflated, or just sort of scrunched up.

Admittingly my CA was about 90mg/L off "ideal" and my KH got down to 120-140, however I have since corrected this and they are at "ideal" levels. The problem is that my anemones which usually are out and open and nice, look well, crap.

I have done two water changes of around 30% each, with a fortnight in between (this was about a fortnight ago) and cannot think of anything to cause this, except for a couple of things which I would like your advice on:

1. I went to the bait shop and got some frozen prawns, broke one in half and gave half each to an anemone. They both closed over on it and the fish picked at what was hanging out (and they are okay still).

2. I added a protein skimmer which has done nothing but remove all my cyno bacteria algae and does collect a decent sample of sludge on a regular basis.

3. My lights are about six or so months old. This is what I primarily think it is. They are just two three foot 35watt NO fluros, one white one actinic.

4. My pre-filter pad hasn't been changed in about a month. Slack on my part yes, but hasn't caused problems in the past.

I have a number of fish in there and they are all fine without any signs of discomfort, but then again perhaps they have developed a tollerence? I also have probably around 20 corilamorphs of different size and they are wide open, impressively in fact. I also have a nudi coral (see my gallery) which is usually quite tough, but is also suffering from whatever is going on.

Oh, my pH was also about 8.0 but I have also since bought that up to 8.2 over a about a week using an appropriate buffer.


Can anyone cast their eyes over what this might be and offer suggestions? I am happy to answer any additional questions and test water qualities, etc.

My first thought is definately the lights but I am assured by others "who know" that twelve months should be when I replace them, not six. There's a degree of trust there also, as the assistant who seems very much on her game, turned down an $80 sale for a $3 sale of prawn bait. Either she was incredibly stupid or plain honest.


Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-16-2005, 12:29 PM   #2
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Your main problem is lack of light. Depending on the species of anemone, they need 4x what you have now. 2x35w NO lights with a 21" tank depth is quite insufficient. Anemones will linger for some time without proper light and supplimental feeding but over time will succumb. They typically either die outright or begin wasting and become smaller and smaller.

Do you ever see the cowrie in the vacinity of the anemones?

You either need to upgrade the light (2x96w PC minimum) or return the anemones to the LFS.

What is a nudi coral?

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Old 05-16-2005, 05:28 PM   #3
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Hi Steve,

Check out my gallery for a nudi coral. That's what the LFS called it at least.

The cowrie doesn't seem to go near the anemones. Any suggestions where I can get those lights from, at a good price?
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Old 05-16-2005, 06:30 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by flanque
Check out my gallery for a nudi coral. That's what the LFS called it at least.
Trachyphyllia geoffroyi aka green open brain coral.

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Any suggestions where I can get those lights from, at a good price?
In Australia, no clue. You don't necessarily need those lights I suggested, just something similar in intensity. Do they have VHO down there?

If you do find something, be careful when adding the new lights you need to "acclimate" the tank slowly. If an HO fluorescent reduce the "daylight" photoperiod to only 2-3 hours a day and increase ¬Ĺ hour every few days until it's back to the normal routine. You can leave the actinic on as normal, that will keep the anemones from wandering.

If MH lighting, you'll need to shade the light instead. Use several layers of screen door material (5-6 or more dependant on intensity vs depth) between the lights and the tank. Run the photoperiod as normal and once a week or so remove one layer of the screening until they're gone.

Cheers
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:35 AM   #5
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Hi steve-s,

Thanks for that assistance. I tried my local marine LFS and they really didn't have a clue what I was talking about. They went "oh yeah" when I said that it's between normal fluros and MH lights. I asked the wattage and they just kept saying "10000 kelvin". My understanding is that is a measure of temperature over zero, but I might be wrong.

I will keep looking for more LFS with other more intelligent beings, but in the mean time can you suggest some reputable online stores that will supply these in 240v 3-pin electrical plug fashion like what we have in AU?

Also, my friend has MH on his 2000L tank.. do you think it would be a good idea to put them into there whilst I fix my tank up? I only fear the double moves, but imagine that the time in there would be at least three months.
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Old 05-17-2005, 11:44 AM   #6
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I will keep looking for more LFS with other more intelligent beings, but in the mean time can you suggest some reputable online stores that will supply these in 240v 3-pin electrical plug fashion like what we have in AU?
http://www.reefandriver.com.au/powercompacts.htm

Quote:
Also, my friend has MH on his 2000L tank.. do you think it would be a good idea to put them into there whilst I fix my tank up? I only fear the double moves, but imagine that the time in there would be at least three months.
This would only work if your friend would be willing to light acclimate the anemones to the tank as I described above. They have been without proper lighting for a long period of time so it would definately be a shock to their systems. Although on a tank that size it may just be deep enough to work otherwise. One thing to consider is you may not be able to get them out again. How is the coral density and what fish does this tank have?

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Old 05-17-2005, 05:41 PM   #7
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Yeah his tank is very deep. The objective is to put them down the bottom. My friend is datto on this forum. Here's his profile with that he has:

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/profil...profile&u=8582

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I currently own two marine tanks. one is a 55gallon tank with mini reef, uv sterliser, 150watt metal haloide and one 2ft blue actinic fluro. There is only about 10lbs of live rock (great barrier reef) and i use this tank to treat any sick fish or when purchasing new fish i put them in there for about a month. my pride and joy is a 450gallon reef tank it was set up on the the 5/11/04. there is 600lbs of live rock from the Great Barrier Reef. my mini reef i designed myself, the tank has dual overflow chambers which fall into seperate ends of the reef. The right side has been regulated to flow slower than the left side to allow extended time in which the water flows through the media. the media is as follows split in half, equal amounts on both sides of the mini reef. the media includes approx 2000 bio balls, 10 boxes of fluval "bio max" ceremic noodles and 20litres of Seachem "matrix". current inhabitants of the tank include: 1x Mimic tang (juvenille) Acanthurus pyroferus 1x Blk and yellow damsel (juvenille) .Neoglyphidodon nigroris 1x Yellow Damsel. Pomacentrus moluccensis 2x Ocellaris clowns. Amphiprion ocellaris 2x Flame Angels. Centropyge loriculus 1x un-identified anenome????? and approx 20 assorted corals which i will list when i can id them.
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Old 05-17-2005, 05:55 PM   #8
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Should be okay, just be sure if the anemones are attached to something in your tank, you transport them rock and all. Most likely they will let go once acclimated to their new home and you'll be able to retrieve it later.

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Old 05-17-2005, 06:59 PM   #9
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Okay, what will be the affect of detatching them from the rock and then placing them on another rock in the new aquarium? The only problem is that they are attached to rocks which are down pretty low, requiring me to move a lot of my rocks around, and generally I don't like doing that.
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Old 05-17-2005, 07:08 PM   #10
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Okay, what will be the affect of detatching them from the rock and then placing them on another rock in the new aquarium?
You risk damaging/tearing the foot or retractor muscle which typically means doom for the anmeone. If you can't remove them without forcing them manually, leave them.

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The only problem is that they are attached to rocks which are down pretty low, requiring me to move a lot of my rocks around, and generally I don't like doing that.
Find a low GPH powerhead and aim it in the general direction of their foot. Low enough that it doesn't disrupt the entire tank or damage the anemone but high enough it irritates it enough to move. Be sure not to leave the powerhead unattended. You don't want them wandering into it.

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