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Old 03-01-2011, 10:54 AM   #11
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How are your ammonia levels in the QT after 2 days?
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:42 PM   #12
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I didn't check cause I used water from the main tank to fill it. The nitrates are between 10 & 15 depending on when I test it. Ammonia shouldn't be a problem I assumed since most people set up a QT immediately when needed by filling a tank they keep stored empty, slap on a bio wheel. The filters are normally are stored in the main tank sump. In my case it didn't seem to matter because the copper would negate any benefit of bacteria in the filter. At least that's what I've read.
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:36 AM   #13
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You are correct about the copper killing your nitrifying bacteria, but your incorrect in your assumption that ammonia will not be a problem. Since your QT has no way to process fish waste, ammonia will rise . Those levels need be checked once or twice a day depending how many fish you have in QT and if there is any ammonia present, you need to do a water change to get it back to 0.

This is what makes copper a real pain to use for treating ich. Since you have to do water changes constantly due to ammonia, you have to mathematically figure out how much copper you removed during the water change and then replenish it. Replenish too much, the fish die, replenish too little and the ich lives and the fish die. It's a real headache. If you ever need to treat for ich in the future, it is MUCH easier to use hyposalinity as a treatment.

Hyposalinity will kill ich the same as copper does, but you can at least build a bacterial colony using a bio-wheel or other filter media and there is no need to worry about dosing chemicals.
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:31 AM   #14
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Thanks! Thus is all excellent info that will come in handy next time. BTW, is the Seachem Ammonia alert system good? I do test for it in my main tank but I keep an alert tag hanging in the tank at the same time. Have you used it? If it's accurate enough then I can place one in the QT as well.

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Old 03-02-2011, 03:06 PM   #15
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Does the copper throw off the levels?
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:09 PM   #16
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I don't know about the ammonia tags so I can't really comment on those, but the copper in the water shouldn't throw off your testing results for ammonia/nitrite.
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:18 PM   #17
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Just to let you know, I've had some problems in the past with using biological filtration in a quarantine tank the way you said you are doing: I kept the Bio-Max bag from AquaClear filters in my sump (they were down there even when I cycled my tank) and used them in a QT. It was like using a brand new filter, it cycled just the same as a new tank.

Maybe I was doing something wrong, but if I were you I'd keep a very close eye on my ammonia levels, regardless of the treatment you're using. Good luck.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:59 PM   #18
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Well I'm glad you mentioned the ammonia because I found it at 0.6! I did a 80% water change and now it's back down to somewhere between 0.05-0.1

You saved my fish. Thanks! My NO3 was at 15mg/l so that didn't warn me that there was a problem. My issue now is my Ph is very high. I added the only thing that I had on hand, which is KH buffer. Does that help?
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:51 PM   #19
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I'm glad you got the ammonia under control and the fish are ok, great stuff. As for your ph being high, what is the actual reading? You just did a massive pwc so the ph should be very close to what is normal for your salt mix. Adding KH buffer can actually increase your ph so I would stop adding it.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:09 PM   #20
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For what it's worth, copper very well could have an impact on ammonia testing depending on the products used, i.e. Seachem I believe. If performing 50% water changes daily (siphoning waste and uneaten food) ammonia shouldn't be an issue unless you overstock your QT. In a QT you are trying to avoid cycling due to the medications involved. As far as copper, it is fairly simple to dose: For instance, your target should be 0.18mg/L of copper sulfate. In theory, if you perform a 50% water change then you would need to redose at half the original dosage, 0.09. Of course, you would need to perform a copper test prior to any dosing. To calculate dosage after a water change, take the number of gallons, we'll use 20g, and multiply by 3.785 multiplied by the difference between your target and what your test yields. Example: Gallons=20. Target=0.18mg/l. 50% water change=0.09mg/l. Take 20x3.785=75.7x0.09=6.813. Your dosage after a 50% water change would be 6.813ml (Either dose 7ml or 6.5ml). Hope I got that right lol. Hyposalinity is a longer approach, not guaranteed to kill crypt., and accelerates Uronema. I rather battle ich than Uronema. If dosing copper properly, it is a more thorough and easier process than hypo ime.
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