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Old 02-22-2006, 09:21 PM   #1
RTV
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algea and ich

My 46 gal tank is about 1month old...started with 57lbs of LR. Waited 2 weeks then added 50lbs of live sand. then another week- had water checked at LFS and was given ok to add fish and corals. Added 2 clowns a xenia and a star polyp. Then about a week later, 3 zoanthids and a cleaner shrimp. Both my clowns have white spots that I assume is ich. I've been lacing their food with garlic extract (they aren't crazy about that). Unfortunately the spots persist. The past 2-3 days, the algea has really kicked in. Glass is covered by the time I get home from work. I clean it but, the next day its the same thing. The clowns aren't slugish at all.Today, I visited LFS intent on setting up a QT to treat the clowns (if I can catch them). The fish guy told me that it wasn't necessary- sold me some vitamin c and advised me to reduce salinity and SG also something to reduce phospates to control algea. Said the best thing would be a fresh water dip for the clowns-(again if I can catch them).

Any advice from the board? Do you agree that QT is not a necessity?
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Old 02-22-2006, 09:37 PM   #2
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LFS is full of it.
Hypo (in a QT) is the best ich treatment.
Second would be copper (only in QT, and only certain fish)
Vitamin C will cause your PH to drop and possibly hurt everything in your tank. You can counter this with buffer but it will do nothing for the ich.
The algae is more than likely diatoms. This is a normal phase of a new tank. Best thing is to add a cleanup crew to eat the algae. It will eventually burn itself out. Phosphates is one of several sources of algae. You need to test the water to see if that is what is is before you treat for it. Like I said earlier what you have now is normal and will eventual die out. Get the cleaning crew to help out. FW dip will do nothing to stop ich and will severely stress your fish. AVOID!. DO NOT lower the salinity in your main tank. You will kill your inverts and corals. Set up a QT and treat the fish with hypo. Try getting a clear empty 2 liter bottle and cut the bottom out of it. attach it to a dowel rod or stick and squirt food in to threaded opening. The fish will go in to eat, then just push the bottle down the sand and net them. Sounds like your LFS guy has no clue about anything fish related other than sells. On a side note corals should not be added to your tank until it is more mature.
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Old 02-22-2006, 09:56 PM   #3
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Not being very experienced with this stuff, its hard to know whats best- I'll move forward with the QT- won't add anything to main tank until it stabilizes a bit...what is you're suggestion for a cleaning crew? I asked him about adding snails and he said they will just make tracks through the algea but won't do a very good job- advised me to just continue manually cleaning the sides. At some point I'd like to add a diamond goby to keep the sand clean- can't do that right now with the ich problem though.
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:15 PM   #4
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Snails will eat trails in the algae. Every little bit helps. One thing to remember is algae = excess nutrients. How are you cleaning the glass? Are you cleaning it with a pad and rinsing the pad outside the tank? Are you just scraping it off the glass. If you are not "removing" the algae you are just putting it into the water column as nutrients to be redistributed. Snails when eating the algae will absorb nutrients to survive. Yes they are leaving tracks but in the long run they will help you win the battle by removing nutrients. Water changes will also greatly benefit this "IF" you are using good RO/DI water. The gobie will not be a good idea until the ich is clear. 6-8 weeks with the main fallow. If you have another QT you can get him and QT. That way it will be ready to go when your tank is ready. If you have questions about hypo do not hesitate to ask. I and others here will be more than happy to help. PS. also look into hermits for cleaning crew.
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:23 PM   #5
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yes, cleaning the glass with a pad then rinsing. Could some of the problem be over feeding? the clowns eat a few of the food pellets if they catch them on the way down but once they hit the sand- they won't touch them and the pellets gather- i try to get net them out of the tank but inevitably they go between rocks where I can't get to them. I've also been feeding them some frozen brine- that seems better it floats until they either eat or it goes to the filter.
When you say hypo- what SG do you recommend in the QT? Thanks so much for your help... I feel like I'm floundering a bit- already have invested quite a bit of money and would like to have some success.
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:32 PM   #6
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Overfeeding can cause problems also. The clean up crew will also remove the pieces stuck between the rocks. How often do you feed? Be aware brine is a great snack but has very little nutritional value. If I feed brine I soak it in zoe, selcon etc. Mysis shrimp is a much better food for your clowns but you still need to "mix" it up. Hypo needs to be done at 1.009-1.010 You need a refractometer to get accurate measurements. A hydrometer will only cause you grief..
Quote:
I feel like I'm floundering a bit
Look at the bright side. You only have two fish to treat. The crabs, snails, coral will not host ich so you will be good to go soon.
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:39 PM   #7
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you've been a big help- I'll get to work on the QT tomorrow- I've been floating a bio wheel in the main tank to get ready- and, plan on taking at least 5 gallons from there to get the 10 gallon QT started. Looks like refractometer is the next purchase for me....along with a cleaning crew for the main tank. Thanks for your patience and the great advice.
by the way...I don't have a hood and light for the QT- is lighting a must during this process?
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:48 PM   #8
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Lighting is not important. Actually lower light helps keep the fish from getting stressed. Do you have a screen or anything to keep the fish from jumping out? Things that will help your QT experience is a NH3 "badge", poly-filters, prime or similar. Poly filter is a brand. Not a generic term. www.poly-bio-marine.com/polyprod.htm Also when you lower the salinity your PH will usually drop so have some buffer handy.
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