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Old 06-13-2005, 07:07 PM   #11
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Thanks for your reply's. I must say that I should have known better putting that many at one time. My first reef I had I waited 4 months before I put anything in. This time I wait only 4 weeks. I'm not very happy with myself at all. And I never thought that my Pink Tips would release toxic's. I just took them out tonight, I wanted to make sure there were indeed dead.

I don't know why everybody seems to think my Salinity is low, this is the readings I’m getting, 1.0275
I did not check for copper, but that kit is on the way.
I just purchased quite a few LaMotte’s & Salifert's kits for a more accurate readings

The Alkalinity is off the charts but right now all I can get is 400+ ppm. I will have to wait till my good kits come in which should be tomorrow or Wed. Right now I'm dosing with C-Balance Part A only from Two Little Fishies. That will at least save my rock. O BTW all I did have in the tank was a Cleaner Shrimp. No corals except that were on the rock when I got it. That too does not look good either but the coralline algae is still very strong and looking good. On the PC lighting, for what I want to keep would be fine, including the pink tips.

Forgot to add that my Ammonia was 0

I'll just keep on getting the tank back in balance and try and find out which did kill my friends.

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Old 06-13-2005, 07:31 PM   #12
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I don't think anyone was implying your salinity was low. At 1.0275 you are a little high. It should read 1.025 as general rule of thumb at the top end and 1.021 at the bottom. I think getting the better kits was a wise move on your part and you'll get a much clearer idea of the condition of your params. As a general rule, good params to shoot for would be something like:

salinity 1.025 SG

Alk 8 - 12 dkh (nsw is ~8 dkh, however most reef keepers keep it elevated. Mine for example runs about 11 dkh and the corals completely dig it!)

PH 8.2

mg 1350ppm (Should be 3 x your ca, however, nsw is about 1350)

ca 400 - 500ppm (most including myself shoot for 450ppm. This is important to corals and inverts who rely on ca for making shells..)

ammonia 0

nitrite 0

nitrate 0 - ? FOWLR, prolly can range on up to 30+ ppm, but through good filtration and water changes, you can keep them much lower. And should ; )

Temp 78 - 82 (Tops!) Anything above 82 starts to make sweaty fish!

There are many other params (Copper is always a no no for inverts!, borate, strontium, etc) but in a FOWLR tank you can start with getting these in line. Once thats the case, you should be ready to add something to cycle with. Again, I *highly* recommend BioSpira. Not just because you can cycle a tank in 24 48 hours, but it doesn't kill fishies. (Or buy a fish you may only wish you had not) If you decide to cycle with something live, then of course you need to wait for ammonia, nitrite to be 0 and nitrates to be 0 or darn close.

Best of Luck!

To fail to plan is to plan to fail.
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Old 06-13-2005, 07:37 PM   #13
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Thanks for the info PC. You know with my old system, I always had a problem with Nitrates. What's the best practace to use to keep them at 0?

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Old 06-19-2005, 12:15 PM   #14
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I think your right PC, It ws the Purple Tips that killed the rest. I'll never do that again. But everything seems to be coming back to norman now.

Salinity = 1.025
Nitrate = 0
Nitrite = 0
PH = 8.3
Temp = 78.1
Alk = High - 15.1
Phosphate = 0
calicum = 250 Was 130

I started dosing with ESV Calcium Hydroxide at 2 gallons a day. Then I started to dose with Seachem's Reef complete. Tank is looking better everyday. Still have those cyanobacteria but that will go in time by itself.

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