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Old 04-28-2012, 08:27 AM   #1
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Exclamation All of my coral died

Since switching over to my 55 on Thursday, all of my corals have died after expelling their zoo. I'm assuming this is what it was as it was all brown and stringy. All corals lost were LPS.

Parameters:
Salinity 1.031 a tad high, but bringing it down and shouldn't be cause of death in such a short period of time
Temp 78
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Copper Negative

I'm at a loss. Lighting is 2 Radions running at 10%. They slowly start coming on around 7 and then work their way off at 7. Only other inhabitants of the tank are an indigo dottyback, some nerite snails, and a couple blue legged hermits that aren't showing any signs of stress.

The corals that were added on Thursday, acan, chalice, and worm brain were starting to show signs of stress and either bleaching or expelling their zoo. I moved them into my 36 and placed them in the middle of the tank, 4 bulb T5HO. All corals in the 55 were located in the sandbed.

Any ideas here? I've run out as to why corals that were doing fine or thriving in my 36 have now perished in under 2 days in the new tank. The 55 has an attached fuge w/ cheato (24 hr lighting) and runs carbon and pfo.
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:13 AM   #2
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Just thinking out loud but I would take your water to another tester to make sure there is no problem with yours. Also do you have a ground probe in your tank in case there is some stray electricity in the tank. Also the higher the salinity the less oxygen in the tank. I would move it slowly down to 1.025. Sorry about what happened.
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:26 AM   #3
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Were you running GFO (I'm assuming that's what you meant) on the other tank? Was the PH of both tanks the same?
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:41 AM   #4
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No GFO on the othe tank. Ph is the same, both tanks sit at 8.

Voltage might be a viable idea here. I shocked myself when I first went to take my remaining corals out this morning. No ground probe though...if thats the case I might have to burn my LFS down since I picked up a heater from them that has done nothing but frustrate me. When I get home I'll switch out the heater with one that came with the tank if I get shocked when I get home. Still odd though, that was the first time it did that in the 2 months its been up and running.

I'm aware also about the salinity and it is on its way down. Just with doing 15 hours yesterday at work and now 7-3 today I haven't had time to do another PWC. I have the water already mixed up for it.
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:49 AM   #5
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I don't think it was the salinity. I rented a booth at MACNA when it was in Atlantic City, NJ a couple years ago and set up a big coral tank. Someone (can't remember who at the moment) donated all of the water. This was supposed to be natural sea water so I didn't even think to check the salinity. It was cloudy and all of the corals were sliming, and showing their objections. 2 days we all (the entire convention) suffered with ugly corals until someone decided to check the salinity. My point is, 2 days under higher salinity and no one lost anything. That water was .033.
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:56 AM   #6
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Agreed. All of the corals that died were in my 36 and lived through my salinity being higher than .030 for months until I got my refractometer. But like stated, it is on its way down.

Would stray voltage hit the coral and not the snails and hermits? They would be grounded, so I don't think it would be voltage because of this. Also in hindsight that testing the copper was a waste of time as it would have done the inverts in too...and def not that quickly. I'm just at a loss as what caused it.

I temp acclimated them for 2 hours floating and lights were turned off, not coming back on till tomorrow.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:29 PM   #7
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I could simply test for stray voltage with a voltmeter right? Just stick each probe at different ends of the tank.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:02 PM   #8
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I could simply test for stray voltage with a voltmeter right? Just stick each probe at different ends of the tank.
No,you would test for voltage by sticking on lead (probe) in the neutral side of an electrical outlet and the other lead in the tank water.Start at least at the 120v range,then continue checking (each lower voltage setting on your meter) all the way down to millivolts.If voltage is found,thats probably your culprit.You can unplug all electric equipment one at a time to find which one is causing the trouble (sounds like i'd start with your heater,lol)
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:29 PM   #9
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But if it was an electric current, the inverts would also be dead due to also being grounded.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:52 PM   #10
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But if it was an electric current, the inverts would also be dead due to also being grounded.
It would depend on how much voltage there is and is it full time or off and on (such as your heater turning on/off)? I was also just answering your question on how to properly test for voltage in a tank,not trying to pin point your issue.But it does sound like a likely cause.

On another note,you mentioned your parameters,but where is your mag/cal/alk at? I'm curious,at your SG,if alk might have a factor in this since it was just lps that died.Although i would think your inverts would have troubles here too.
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