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Old 10-14-2008, 09:20 PM   #11
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"Brain" corals tend to take longer to recondition other than Xeniids ime. Make sure it is receiving adequate flow and take note of any excessive sliming and/or jelly like substances (usually brown) around the tissue margins. Didn't you mentioned something about the lights being on more than usual in your other thread? I cannot imagine what is going on with your tank being that you left only for two days. My only thoughts, and please forgive me as I make no blind accusation, is there were unwarranted hands or an accident within the tank or vicinity and you are just not being told about it. I mention this based on experience unfortunately...keep up on the water changes for now until things begin to straighten up more

Edit** Unless the fish was already weakened I doubt the emerald would bother it; however, a starfish is fair game. Any hermit could also have wounded the star, but it would have had to be left for dead to cause such a massive die off imo.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:05 AM   #12
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"Brain" corals tend to take longer to recondition other than Xeniids ime. Make sure it is receiving adequate flow and take note of any excessive sliming and/or jelly like substances (usually brown) around the tissue margins. Didn't you mentioned something about the lights being on more than usual in your other thread? I cannot imagine what is going on with your tank being that you left only for two days. My only thoughts, and please forgive me as I make no blind accusation, is there were unwarranted hands or an accident within the tank or vicinity and you are just not being told about it. I mention this based on experience unfortunately...keep up on the water changes for now until things begin to straighten up more

Edit** Unless the fish was already weakened I doubt the emerald would bother it; however, a starfish is fair game. Any hermit could also have wounded the star, but it would have had to be left for dead to cause such a massive die off imo.

yes, the lights were on a strange schedule while i was gone. i am also weary that something happened that im not being told about. also, how should i go about bringing everything that lived to a full recovery? just daily pwc's(easily manageable for the remainder of the week)? and i wouldnt call it a "huge" or "massive" die off, it was two things that died and because i wasnt there to observe any of it the parameters got screwed up. but whatever, this is all a learning experience. and also, if things do manage to get worse, should i take something out and put it in the 3 gal temporarily? i know that i really need a qt/hospital tank i just dont got the time or cash to set one up rite now. also, on a qt do i need a light or will just a lamp pointed at the tank work or what. if i do need a light, what is a relatively cheap one?
Thanks so much everyone!
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:58 PM   #13
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a slight update: xenia is growing bumps that look like popped out white dents (out-dents). the mushroom looks strange (could it be splitting?). brain is gaining color back on the outside part of its body. frogspawn is slitghtly shrunken. blasto is regaining size. and my urchin is making my zoa's unhappy if you know what i mean. another quick question, will a 3in by 1 1/2in (polyps' size) torch coral do ok in a 3 gallon with 18 watts of pc 50/50 14000k actinic and 7400k daylight?
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Old 10-15-2008, 09:47 PM   #14
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Where are the bumps coming from, the base or stalk? If so it could be a sign of reproduction. Mushroom looks strange, as in convoluted or twisting? Possible sign of reproduction or still unhappy. I wouldn't put a torch in a 3g, much too small eventually unless for holding purposes imo, but yes the pc's should be more than enough light.
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Old 10-15-2008, 10:08 PM   #15
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bumps are comming from everywhere on the stalks. the mushroom is just all around weird lately, stange to describe. and the torch is just there for holding purpses until the 28 is back on track, i just wanted to make sure that it would be fine for a week or a few. how should i go about bringing everything that lived to a full recovery? just daily pwc's(easily manageable for the remainder of the week)? lastly, do i need a light for a qt? what exactly should be in it besides a filter some, fake plants, heater, and powerhead?
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Old 10-15-2008, 10:25 PM   #16
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I imagine the Xenia is reproducing and probably stemmed from the excess organics in the water. Within 24hrs-48hrs you should start to see some tentacles and pinnules extruding if that's the case. For holding purposes that would be just fine. You may have to photo-acclimate the torch depending on the previous placement at the lfs. Are you considering the 3g your quarantine tank? Just being sure since there is a difference between a Holding tank and Quarantine tank that most do not differentiate.
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:14 PM   #17
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I imagine the Xenia is reproducing and probably stemmed from the excess organics in the water. Within 24hrs-48hrs you should start to see some tentacles and pinnules extruding if that's the case. For holding purposes that would be just fine. You may have to photo-acclimate the torch depending on the previous placement at the lfs. Are you considering the 3g your quarantine tank? Just being sure since there is a difference between a Holding tank and Quarantine tank that most do not differentiate.
not considering the 3 gal as a qt at all, i was thinking a little bit about making it a small fuge for the 28 tho. also, what is photo acclimating? ive heard of it before but never really knew what it was. i have a 16 gal that im planning on using as a qt.
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:30 PM   #18
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Ah ok, picture is clear now lol. I only mention photo-acclimation because a 3g is shallow. Place the coral at the bottom of the tank and if you can raise the fixture any, do so. You are trying to limit the intesity of exposure so the coral isn't shocked with that amount of light, depending on its previous placement. Quarantine tanks either have a sponge filter or hob filter, a heater, and pvc for fish to hide in. QT does not need specific lighting and indirect lighting will be best since medications may degrade with direct light exposure. You can use a mesh bag full of sand from your main system to help kickstart a cycle in QT Depending on how you see the tank adjusting and achieving a healthier outlook, water changes could vary around 10% weekly until you deem it recovered.
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:40 PM   #19
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Ah ok, picture is clear now lol. I only mention photo-acclimation because a 3g is shallow. Place the coral at the bottom of the tank and if you can raise the fixture any, do so. You are trying to limit the intesity of exposure so the coral isn't shocked with that amount of light, depending on its previous placement. Quarantine tanks either have a sponge filter or hob filter, a heater, and pvc for fish to hide in. QT does not need specific lighting and indirect lighting will be best since medications may degrade with direct light exposure. You can use a mesh bag full of sand from your main system to help kickstart a cycle in QT Depending on how you see the tank adjusting and achieving a healthier outlook, water changes could vary around 10% weekly until you deem it recovered.
ok things are much more clear now, what do you mean by pvc? like some wide grade somewhat long pieces? they had the torch under mh at the store. and could i seed the tank with an freshly used ready to change sponge or carbon or ceramic? im going to be replacing all of that with rubble/purigen soon. and i normally do about 17% pwc's weekly so should i be good w/ that?
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Old 10-16-2008, 10:36 AM   #20
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If they had the torch under mh then you should be fine, but I would start it out at the bottom of the tank just to be safe. You are better off seeding a tank with sponge or substrate (in mesh) so yes the sponge would be fine. Pvc is inert so it will not alter medication concentrations and your fish can use them for hiding. 90 elbows, straight pieces, whatever you choose as long as they are sized so your fish can swim through without getting stuck
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