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Old 09-13-2005, 11:05 AM   #21
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I was speaking in reference to ick. and 90% only because there are some that swear it doesnt help, but I am in the 90% that believe.

I see a few issues though.

The tank is supposed to be 3 months old, and he has only had fish in for 1 month but had issues with the blue tang after 3 weeks and it was in the main? No QT for the blue tang, or else he would have had them in the QT. Also it doesnt allow room in time for his QT of the other fish as well....

From another post he was still asking water parms. 23 Aug 2005 about when his cycle would be complete... http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewto...hlight=#489575

Please fill us in.
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75g w/ 30g sump, 160# LR, 60# sand: Inverts =18 turbos, 30 nassirus's, 40 blue leg's, 5 emeralds, 1 CBS, 1 skunk cleaner, 1 brown gulf shrimp? and various other LR hitch hikers yet un discovered or un-ID'ed
Fish=1 yellow tang, 1 yellow headed jawfish, 1 pink/blue shrimpgoby, 2 perc clowns.
Future fish = 1 sixline, 1 lawnmower blenny
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:43 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by mykpoz
I was speaking in reference to ick. and 90% only because there are some that swear it doesnt help, but I am in the 90% that believe.
So was I and as far as it not working, same answer. It's simpley from not being done correctly. It is 100% effective.


Quote:
I see a few issues though......The tank is supposed to be 3 months old, and he has only had fish in for 1 month but had issues with the blue tang after 3 weeks and it was in the main? No QT for the blue tang, or else he would have had them in the QT. Also it doesnt allow room in time for his QT of the other fish as well....

From another post he was still asking water parms. 23 Aug 2005 about when his cycle would be complete... http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewto...hlight=#489575
Actually unless I'm off base here, the tang was quite possibly not the carrier, more likely the clown was. It's not completely uncommon for Brooklynella to manifest itself a time after a fish is introduced.

As far as proper QT prcedures, yes one week is definetely not a proper term and should be four weeks minimum for each new addition. The point is moot though since it appears not to be the case here. Assigning blame doesn't solve the problem either. Simpley relaying how to go about it properly is a much better way of teaching.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:56 AM   #23
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Quote:
Quote:
mykpoz wrote:
I was speaking in reference to ick. and 90% only because there are some that swear it doesnt help, but I am in the 90% that believe.
So was I and as far as it not working, same answer. It's simply from not being done correctly. It is 100% effective.
the last thing I want to do is assign blame just merely wanted to point out that there are other things going on in the tank, as you are probably aware.

Not only saying that typical QT seems to not have been followed (I'd just like clarity that) but he is also having issues keeping his snails alive.

I know I don't have your experience or knowledge, so I just wanted to put all items in here so that you or anyone else might see a missing piece that can help him.

I don't know if the added information was helpful, but I will digress and only spectate on this thread.

[/quote]
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75g w/ 30g sump, 160# LR, 60# sand: Inverts =18 turbos, 30 nassirus's, 40 blue leg's, 5 emeralds, 1 CBS, 1 skunk cleaner, 1 brown gulf shrimp? and various other LR hitch hikers yet un discovered or un-ID'ed
Fish=1 yellow tang, 1 yellow headed jawfish, 1 pink/blue shrimpgoby, 2 perc clowns.
Future fish = 1 sixline, 1 lawnmower blenny
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Old 09-13-2005, 12:55 PM   #24
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No need to spectate.

You are trying to be very helpful. Stick with the facts and experience and you cant go wrong. You have added some helpful info to this thread...

As far as Steve S. goes........He has more knowledge in his big thumb than I do in my whole body...
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Old 09-13-2005, 01:33 PM   #25
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I had my fish in a qt for a week to a week and a half. I just kept them in a ten gal and a bucket and just made sure that they were all looking healthy. I probably could I have done a better job of this but it is hard finding out all the things you need to do until they have already happened. I have also been mislead by lfs before I found this forum so that doesn't help either (ex. 30gal for a tang was enough as long as I had LR).

I did post about the turbos. My other snails are all doing fine its just the turbos. Could the hermits be eating them. Or maybe temp, the tank is around 78-79. My Ph is a little low at about 8. I have used buffers ect but the tank always goes back to 8. I do not overfeed and I do regular water changes. Do you think the pH is the problem and how can I fix that?
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Old 09-13-2005, 01:41 PM   #26
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I don't know if this will help but here is a pic of my set-up.
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File Type: jpg dscn2395-1.jpg (79.2 KB, 38 views)
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Old 09-13-2005, 10:25 PM   #27
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I had my fish in a qt for a week to a week and a half. I just kept them in a ten gal and a bucket and just made sure that they were all looking healthy. I probably could I have done a better job of this but it is hard finding out all the things you need to do until they have already happened. I have also been mislead by lfs before I found this forum so that doesn't help either (ex. 30gal for a tang was enough as long as I had LR).
We learn by doing, corny as it sounds the first step is saying "I don't know". The next step is trying to correct that. Unfortunately the LFS has steered you in a direction many face and are quite honestly led astray with the best intentions. It actually dismays me that these things happen but they are part and parcel of being new to the hobby. Still more unfortunate is that people expect you to know things no one can honestly expect you to until your pointed in the right direction. I'm glad you made that first step by seeking the help of others in the hobby. You will find alot of hersay, opinions and actual fact. No matter who you hear it from or why, always research on your own accord the validity of the infromation conveyed. Weigh the decisions you make based on the fact you find along with the experiences you encounter. Above all a common sense approach is your best ally. Fortunately as for chemistry and many of the diseases encountered they have been studied at great length by Universities and the like. Most being quite cut and dry some still open to speculation. The information is readily available, you just have to know where to look. Hopefully we can teach you that as well.

Quote:
I did post about the turbos. My other snails are all doing fine its just the turbos. Could the hermits be eating them. Or maybe temp, the tank is around 78-79. My Ph is a little low at about 8.
Your pH is not really as bad as you think. It's more relavent to the time of day tested. pH will naturally be lower in the AM due to CO2 being released by algaes. In the day when the lights are on, O2 is produced counteracting the acidity/CO2 thereby raising the pH. It's much like the workings of a common house plant. If your testing the pH before midway of the photoperiod, 8 is not all that bad. Try testing the pH later in the day and see where your at. One note when reporting pH values is try to convey the time of day it was tested as it will bring much more relavence to your post and help pinpoint if it indeed a problem or not.

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I have used buffers ect but the tank always goes back to 8. I do not overfeed and I do regular water changes. Do you think the pH is the problem and how can I fix that?
As I said above, the pH is relavent to the time of day, so please post that. As for the buffers, more commonly they will be of no use unless alkalinity is low as well. You can get that tested by the LFS if you need to. A good idea to have a test kit of your own though, Salifert is exteremely accurate and inexspensive.

From what I can see of your tank above, CO2 could be your problem via insufficient water flow. I can only see one item moving water which is the return from your sump. Often this can fall short of what is required. For a 30 gallon tank, you should be at minimum 300 GPH total but preferabley higher. If your return pump is less than that, you should consider an additional powerhead of the opposite side of the return.

An easy way of testing for a CO2 problem is remove a short/squat glass or bowl of water and let it sit outside uncovered, preferabley with an airstone. After and hour or so, test the pH of the water and then immediately test a sample from the tank. Compare the results. If the water areated for the hour is much better, then it's reasonable to start looking for causes of the CO2.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 09-14-2005, 12:32 AM   #28
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Steve,
The pump I have in rated at 692GPH at 0 head. I am currently running it at about 3 1/2 to 4 ft which puts me from 470-375GPH. I do have a ball valve installed on the return pump which is currently turned down. I had it on full blast at first but some of the fish just seemed to hide in the rocks (could have been because they were new). Should I turn it up in gradual increments to see how the fish react? 400GPh out of one nozzle just seems like a lot to me. What do you think? I also have a 160GPH ph that I use to do water changes I could always put that in there as well or will the return pump turned up be enough.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 09-14-2005, 03:21 PM   #29
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Steve,
The pump I have in rated at 692GPH at 0 head. I am currently running it at about 3 1/2 to 4 ft which puts me from 470-375GPH. I do have a ball valve installed on the return pump which is currently turned down.
Sounds like a MAG 700 (?) so at 4ft head you'll be about 450-475. With the ball valve and any additional direction changes before the top of the tank, you will most likely be on the closer side to 350 ish GPH. Really depends on how much you've restricted the flow. You have an open top so that is a good start.


Quote:
I had it on full blast at first but some of the fish just seemed to hide in the rocks (could have been because they were new). Should I turn it up in gradual increments to see how the fish react? 400GPh out of one nozzle just seems like a lot to me. What do you think?
The fish will adjust trust me. Clowns especially will react negatively no matter what is changed or how minor but they will become accustom to the change. They may seem like rather awkward swimmers but they can hold their own.

Quote:
I also have a 160GPH ph that I use to do water changes I could always put that in there as well or will the return pump turned up be enough.
Having all your flow coming from one direction is not a good idea. It creates a circular motion that isn't really all that effective. Adding the second powerhead would be a great help as it will increase your flow, cut down on the unidirectional flow and help improve the pH. It will also be less of an intense "current" for the fish. Caotic flows believe it or not are much easier on them. You can also try eeking up the flow on the return a little.

You did not mention the time of day you are registering the 8.0 pH reading? I would also be interested if you have done the test I mentioned previously?

Cheers
Steve
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Old 09-14-2005, 05:17 PM   #30
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I turned up the return pump (rio 2100) all the way. The fish are hiding now but they were out for feeding and I ahve seen them swimming about with no real changes. My BTA was sort of hanging over to one side so I moved the nozzle to point at a different angle and pitch and that seemed to help him come more up-right.

I am preforming the test right now. 9am Ph 8.1- , 3:00 8.1+ Hard to tell for sure since it reads 8 then 8.2. I saved the morning sample and compared colors to the afternoon sample and the color was slightly darker indicating a slight increase in Ph.

So the other powerhead should be placed opposite of the return and flow toward it correct?

I am going to test the other pH now and let you know the results in the next post.
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