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Old 01-12-2006, 02:10 AM   #1
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blue tang ick! help!

i have had my blue tang for several months now. about 3 or 4 days ago i sarted noticing some white spots on him. today it was kind of bad, the spots got kind of larger and he started losing color around the eyes and i noticed him scratching against some rock.... i have read about adding copper in a qt tank or the hyposalinity thing but i dont have a qt tank.... should i buy a 10 gal tank as a qt?? what else should i do???

i will probably get a 40 gal this weekend which i could use as a qt for the meanwhile but is that too late???? i dont want my blue tang to die and i dont want to get any other fish infected with ick..........

anything will help because this is the first disease in my tank!!
thankyouuuu
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100 lbs of sand
maroon clownfish
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yellow tang
3-striped damsel
bicolor pseudochromis
coral beauty angel
racoon butterfly
cleaner shrimp
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:55 AM   #2
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A QT tank and a refractometer are your best investments right now. Prompt hyposalinity treatment will likely save him. Copper may also work if you can't afford the refractometer, but keep in mind that copper is poisonous to the fish as well, and must be dosed carefully (preferably with the aid of a compatible copper test kit) to poison the ick without poisoning the fish.

Is there any way you can get the 40 gallon earlier? Even if you have to buy a 10 gallon now, might set up the 40 as your long-term QT. If the ick spreads to any other fish, your best bet is to treat all of them, and they certianly won't fit in the 10 gallon.

Have there been any recent changes in the tank?
What are your water conditions?
How large is the blue tang?
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:00 PM   #3
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the blue tang is about 3 inches and the only recent change is that i added a coral beauty and a racoon butterfly... at the time i added them, my blue tang seemed real shy, it hided under a rock for about 4 or 5 days and then came out and was perfect for a week or more... then the ick started to appear but it seems to be leaving now... my blue tang never showed any other signs of stress or illness except for scratching against the rocks sometimes but it ate well and swam all over the place...
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75 gal
prizm deluxe protein skimmer
emperor 400 filter
2 aquaclear 4000 powerheads
40 lbs of live rock
100 lbs of sand
maroon clownfish
blue tang
yellow tang
3-striped damsel
bicolor pseudochromis
coral beauty angel
racoon butterfly
cleaner shrimp
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Old 01-14-2006, 07:41 PM   #4
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I'm guessing you didn't QT the new arrivals? Might be a good future policy. It may just have been stress letting his immune system down, or it may have been that the newcomers brought the bug with them.
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:46 PM   #5
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the thing is the newcomers dont have any signs of ick....
and for the next time, how long should i quarantine new arrivals?? and what should i look for?
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75 gal
prizm deluxe protein skimmer
emperor 400 filter
2 aquaclear 4000 powerheads
40 lbs of live rock
100 lbs of sand
maroon clownfish
blue tang
yellow tang
3-striped damsel
bicolor pseudochromis
coral beauty angel
racoon butterfly
cleaner shrimp
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:20 AM   #6
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QT new arrivals for a few weeks. I've heard differing opinions of 3-8 weeks.

Ick often hangs out in fish gills, where it can't be seen.

You might want to do a through bottom vaccum. After the ick parasite falls off the fish, it goes to the bottom and reproduces. If you can remove them at this point, you can reduce the chances of re-infection.
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Old 01-15-2006, 03:48 PM   #7
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Most of the time you will not see any existing symptoms of ich (depending on stage of c. irritans by the time you are looking at the fish in the LFS). QT is definitely important, especially that you have a pre-existing BHT in your tank.

Since you don't have any crustaceans and inverts that will be missed, you might want to do a hypo in your display. This is definitely not advisable. However, you have specimen in your tank that most likely have the ich as well. Also, your sand and rocks will have c. irritans in there as well.

At this point you will have to erradicate it in your main tank. You can either (a) do a QT of all of your fish and treat them there, or (b) if you don't have a QT and it is at a desperate condition, do a hypo in your main. Again, this is not advisable. I am just talking about your situation wherein you don't have corals and anemone, crustaceans, and in dire need of saving your BHT from sudden death.

Good luck.

PS: I did it in my main tank. First pic is before. Second pic is during. Third pic is after. I lost a red tail file fish, and a white spotted puffer. I donated my porcupine puffer, damsels, and the cowfish.
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Old 01-15-2006, 04:19 PM   #8
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so when you put new arrivals in tha qt tank, what are you looking for if they will probably not show any signs of ick and then when you put them in the main tank they will spread it anyways???????????
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75 gal
prizm deluxe protein skimmer
emperor 400 filter
2 aquaclear 4000 powerheads
40 lbs of live rock
100 lbs of sand
maroon clownfish
blue tang
yellow tang
3-striped damsel
bicolor pseudochromis
coral beauty angel
racoon butterfly
cleaner shrimp
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Old 01-15-2006, 05:06 PM   #9
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No, it's more like you quarantine a new fish and treat it with a precautionary hyposalinity treatment to make sure that any ich is erradicated by the time you introduce it into the display. Some people have the wrong notion that the QT is just a magnifying glass for the new arrival.

You put it in QT first in order to treat it with hyposalinity for a month. Then it is ready for introduction.
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Old 01-17-2006, 08:46 PM   #10
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I have heard a freshwater dip for 1-2 Min. will drive the ich out of a salt fish. I tried it on my royal gramma and it seemed to work. I'm not saying to do this. without 1st consulting others about this treatment option.
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