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Old 03-13-2014, 07:01 PM   #21
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They bleach.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:05 PM   #22
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That's probably the issue with my polyps then.

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Old 04-05-2014, 03:56 AM   #23
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Update

My favia did not survive I did some research and concluded it had a diseas known as white plague diseas. It is known to happen naturally in the wild. There is no real factor that determines it's cause as far as I've read. Scientists have done studies and found that when Halimeda macroalgae starts to bloom there is a spike in white plague diseas in the wild. They exposed corals to this in an experiment and found that it is likely the cause but there are no real hard facts. The article I read said it may be the cause. My conclusion is that I bought the coral already infected with the diseas this same thing happened to my flower pot that I bought from the same lfs roughly around the same time. Since the death I bought a smaller favia to experiment and see if the cause is mine or if it was infected prior to my purchase. All my parameters were good I was preforming bi-weekly water changes at the time. I will follow up on this post to log the experiment as I've only had the new favia for 2 days. I was sure to purchase it from a reputable dealer to ensure it is not infected as of yet.



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Old 04-05-2014, 07:09 AM   #24
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I've never heard of that. Do you have a link?
BTW, reputable or not, no one qt's their corals before selling them, and everyone gets them from the same hand full of companies. If in fact your last favia had a disease, the seller was completely unaware IMO.
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:49 AM   #25
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I've done some reading up on what you are suspecting and it seems to be a reach for an explanation. I can say this off of some of the research I'm reading that states the following: Regardless of type, the disease tends to develop in corals that have recently bleached, a process in which some stressor, typically heat, causes coral to expel the symbiotic algae that provides the coral with food. Relatedly, white plague seems to be correlated with high temperatures. "My collaborators have been seeing that this disease often comes out at the end of summer, when corals are the most heat-stressed," Soffer said. (Bleaching is an increasing concern as the world's oceans heat up due to climate change.)
Coral 'White Plague' Epidemic Could Be Caused by Virus | LiveScience

I've looked at the pictures and such, and I think you had a bacterial issue with the coral like your LFS said...though pointing the finger at this 'white plague' isn't really catching it red handed. Acclimation is stressful on coral and could have accelerated the spread and downfall easily.
How would I make sure this doesn't happen in the future? Easy! I would make my bi-weekly water changes weekly to ensure the water is as pristine as possible for any and all new additions to the tank. Drip acclimate your coral for about an hour, though I usually get impatient and only do 30 minutes. Follow this up with slowly acclimating the coral to the light on your system. I would inspect the corals prior to purchase, a lesson I'm sure you've learned now...I learned it off of an elephant ear when I first was moving through the hobby. If you suspect any issues, just don't buy it. If you do, dip the coral in iodine or coralrx to purge what you can. This will lead you to success.
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:02 AM   #26
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I agree. After reading this article and looking at your pictures, I would say this is not "white plague".
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:03 PM   #27
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Wish I had taken photos of the flower pot and brain when they were at there peak of whatever the condition was. But from photos online of white plague it did look exactly the same. I can tell you that I did acclimate the corals via drip method for 30 to 60 min but as a nieve newbie I did not acclimate lighting.

It is funny you mentioned weekly water changes because that's what I have been doing. I also set my lights into acclimation mode for about a 1 month duration cutting my percentage by 40%. I bought cooling fans and have maintained temp between 75 to 78. I'm headed into the right direction I still have many things to learn and a lot of changes to make.

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Old 04-07-2014, 10:29 AM   #28
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I don't ever drip corals. I just float the bags and then put them right in. I don't think I've ever had a problem with a coral doing it this way. Most LPS aren't high light. Low to moderate I would say. Back in the days of metal halides, I found that things like favia, acans, wellsos, lobos, and the like would do best and be most colorful under about 50 PAR. Using LED, that's not very much. 40% may have been enough for it, or perhaps even too much.
I have a pair of Taotronics-like fixtures over my display and am growing and coloring up sps on the sand bed with 100% blue and 50% white. I'm stopping there. I feel that any more than that and I won't be able to keep LPS.
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:48 PM   #29
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Yeah I'm not sure I spoke with AI about proper set up and they claim everything should be at 100% on this lights once aclimated. I think that's a crock of poo. I had mine at 70% blues 65 white. I acclimated to those percentages a few things were struggling.

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Old 04-07-2014, 12:57 PM   #30
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Right....I don't know anyone that runs high end fixtures at 100%....unless they have nothing but sps maybe.
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