Can a Blennie Host ICH?

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Yes. There are certain species of fish like the blenny that are more resiliant but no fish is immune. Even with acquired immunity, fish never remain resistant for much more than 6-8 months.

Cheers
Steve
 
I C So, since i left the blenny in for the 6 week fallow period, the ich was not gone? I just QT'ed my clown today, and have to work on getting the coral beauty out later, and get her into QT. I should remove the blenny as well?
 
In order for the tank to be rid of the parasite, all fish must be removed for the fallow period and treated. Even if a fish does not show signs of the problem, it is still a potential host and can feed the parasite until easier pickings come along.

Cheers
Steve
 
I have a 12 gal QT. How long should i leave them in there? also is that too small fro a blenny, clown, and dwarf angel? How do you sugest catching them?
 
snowdude said:
I have a 12 gal QT. How long should i leave them in there?
The fish should be treated for a full 4 weeks if using hyposalinity and then a few additional weeks to monitor for any re-occurances or secondary infections. If using copper (which I do not recommend), the treatment period is typically 3 weeks and then you should allow the same two weeks after to monitor for re-occurances or secondary infections. So basically 5-6 weeks.

also is that too small fro a blenny, clown, and dwarf angel?
It's a bit cramped but it really depends on how big the angel is. Place an ample amount of PVC pipe and elbows to give them plenty of places to hide and it should help. If you think it's going to be cramped, you might need to upgrade the QT to a 20 gal long.

How do you sugest catching them?
With a net :wink: Since you are removing all the fish you really do not need to be concerned with disrupting the tank. You should be able to pull out any LR or other obstacles easily enough.

Cheers
Steve
 
I am going to do a 3-4 min freshwater dip for each fish, then treat them in the QT with copper. Steve, I know you dont reccomend, but im told it works, and allot easier the HYPO.
 
snowdude said:
Steve, I know you dont reccomend, but im told it works, and allot easier the HYPO.
Actually it's not but if that the route you choose try to make sure you use a chelated copper or Seachems cupramine. It will be much less stressful on the animals than ionic copper. Be sure you have the corresponding test kit as well.

Dips are not really necessary either but be absolutely sure the temp and pH match the tank water. Do not add a buffer to the water just before the dip either, it will spike the pH. If needed, prepare the "bath" a day ahead to be safe. If available I would also add some methalyene blue just before the fish. It will help with the stress plus a few extra's.

Cheers
Steve
 
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