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Old 06-04-2010, 08:08 PM   #11
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Its a 37gallon (30 X 12.5 X 22).
What do you mean by reducing stocking levels?
Alright I will reduce feeding.
How long would you recomend on lighting timing?
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:11 PM   #12
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Crepe, no need to retire from giving advice. It was just a simple mistake. No harm done.

As for the nitrates, i agree with the water changes. Probably the best thing you could do for your tank right now. Still, you should test for nitrites and ammonia, just so we can rule out that those were not causing the problem and it IS just the nitrates.

Also, how often do you feed? Excess nitrates can also be caused by overfeeding, and i see that happen more often than you think. Feeding every other day, even skipping two days is fine. Unless you have anthias, which you don't.

When crepe said reducing the stocking levels, he means, get rid of some livestock. Maybe a fish or two.. but since inverts add almost nothing to the bioload of the tank i wouldn't worry about getting rid of those.

8-9 hours a day is good for the lighting. You shouldn't need to have them on any longer.
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:12 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by youknow2025 View Post
Its a 37gallon (30 X 12.5 X 22).
What do you mean by reducing stocking levels?
Alright I will reduce feeding.
How long would you recomend on lighting timing?
Stocking levels means the amount of livestock you have in your tank. 3 damels and 2 clowns, for now doesn't seem too bad in a 37. Depending on what type of damsels you have, you may have some territorial issues in the future though.

I say reduce feeding for awhile to see if it will go down, or feed more judiciously. I've only been a FOWLR keeper so I can't answer the lighting question, never had corals before.
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:25 PM   #14
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I feed daily and in my opinion its a lot! I only do that though is because my damsels go into like a shock and idk why. They get white spots all over them or turn pure white. After the lights are turned on and they eat they are fine. Is there a reason behind this? And I'm getting rid of at least one damsel. Maybe all of them.
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:26 PM   #15
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Water changes are a good start. Sending a few fish to the LFS (reducing stocking) will help as well. Damsels (clowns inclusive) tend to get grumpy and aggressive as they age so you need to reduce the number before real problems show themselves.

As far as cycling, etc... I'd suggest starting with reading some of the articles available here. Take the advice you've received in the past tense after you read and understand the basics of the nitrogen cycle. It will make better sense then. You seem like you care, so I'm sure you'll be fine and do your best by the animals. There is a ton of experience and a bunch of great folks here. Our first priority tends to be the fish though.
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:31 PM   #16
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Just did a 15ish% water change.
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I feed daily and in my opinion its a lot! I only do that though is because my damsels go into like a shock and idk why. They get white spots all over them or turn pure white. After the lights are turned on and they eat they are fine. Is there a reason behind this? And I'm getting rid of at least one damsel. Maybe all of them.
the damsels turning opaque is a natural defense of the fish, nothing to worry about at all. I'd get rid of the damsels for sure! as stated earlier in the thread, they get VERY territorial and are a nightmare to catch in matured tanks (ridiculously quick! and you end up scaring everything in the tank and possibly knocking rocks out of place - not fun!) i have the same prob at the mo. 3 regal damsels run riot until my coral beauty puts them in their place .

with the nitrates - to start with, test every 2-3 days to make sure that the levels are dropping then test once a week. I test every sat morning (thats everything mind you) get into a habit of doing so, so you can catch any anomalies sooner rather than later.

i noticed in your second post you said you had a lot of hair algae, that is most likely your phosphates. although, if you test for it it will prob show very low or non. but the algae absorbs phosphates, thus the reading being low/non. do you use a canister filter? if so get some phos-zorb or similar and get that in the filter. this will suck all the phosphate out. prob take a month or so before you see results but well worth it. note: change every2/3 months.

hope all this helps - good luck

James
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Old 06-17-2010, 01:11 PM   #18
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Any progress with the shrimp? If you have a large amount of inverts, you might consider dosing iodine, it helps harden their shells and improves growth and vitality. Make sure you test it first to see where it's at. If you overdose it can quickly become extremely poisonous.
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:35 PM   #19
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just a bit of experience info on the coral banded shrimp...
when i did a saltwater tank w/ some buddies in college, we had a coral banded shrimp and he got REALLY big over the course of about 8 months... during months 5 through 8 he ate a scooter blenny, two peppermint shrimps and a pretty big cleaner shrimp... and one time he lost one of his big pinchers and like 2-3 days later it just magically reaapeared (it was soft and took another 3 days to harden up)
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