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Old 06-04-2010, 06:12 PM   #1
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Coral Banded Shrimp

Okay I went to my lfs yesterday and bought a frospawn frag, three turbo shrimp, and a coral banded shrimp. My shrimp was fine yesterday and was acting normal. I noticed that it doesn't have the giant third leg (claw) on either side. Today I have caught it stuck on its back seven times. Is this normal behavior? Should I take it back due to the missing claws. It seems left defenseless.
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:53 PM   #2
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They should regrow...it's probably stressed out. How is the ammonia in your tank? That causes most inverts to well...invert.
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:56 PM   #3
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I don't have a test kit for that. I would imagine it be high since I have hair algae growing. This was my reason for getting the turbo snails. Should I get a test kit?
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:09 PM   #4
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...You should have a test kit for every water parem. This includes:
pH, ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, dKH, GH, calcium and phosphates. Although in fw you can get away with only ph, nitrates, nitrites and ammonia, you need a much larger spectrum of tests for sw. You might also want to check your salinity, marine inverts live better in lower salinity than fish.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:26 PM   #5
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Actually.. the natural salinity level of the ocean is 1.026.. and fish and inverts both share the ocean. I've never heard of inverts liking lower salinity levels than fish. Crepe, you must be thinking of Nitrates. Inverts, including coral, don't respond well to aquariums with high levels of Nitrates. However, fish on the other hand, can survive in very high levels of Nitrates. I think there was a thread opened by Floyd R Turbo about one of the tanks he maintains, and one tank had something like over 300ppm of nitrates.. i think that was the number. Yet the fish were still living. But there were no coral or inverts in that tank.

As for the test kits, it's a little shocking that you even started a tank, regardless of whether it was FW or SW, without test kits. And since you don't have test kits, i can only imagine that your tank isn't cycled. Which means.. unless you do tons of water changes, your livestock is more or less going to die. All of them. Including the coral you bought.

Oh yeah, and the green hair algae doesn't mean that there is ammonia in the water. GHA is caused by many things. Overfeeding, nitrates, phosphates, keeping the lights on for long long periods of time.. and there are so many more things that contribute to hair algae.


Honestly, in this situation, i would first go out and get a test kit. Even a test kit for the simple things like nitrite, ammonia, nitrates, etc.. is better than not having a test kit at all. You need to test your water, and see what the results are and then post them here so we can give you advice and what it is you need to do to keep your livestock alive. And if it's really bad, you might have better luck just returning your livestock so they don't die, and then starting the tank over. Properly this time.

But the first step is to get a test kit and post your water parameters here so we can help you.
Hope this helps.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:33 PM   #6
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Youknow- A couple questions... how long has your tank been set up? Can you tell us more about it? Fish? Lighting? Feeding? etc. Without more details, it's easy to jump to a lot of different assumptions. Help narrow things down for us.

A test kit (liquid reagent) is, as stated, a must though.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:52 PM   #7
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My tank has been set up since December 25, 2009.
I have three damsels, two Ocellaris Clownfish, two hermit crabs, three turbo snails, one cerith snail.
I have a Coralife Aqualight Double Linear Strip, 4X65 Watt, 48 inch
I feed frozen mysis shrimp.

My salinity is at 1.025
Temperature is at 82 degrees
My nitrates are between 12.5 and 25 mg/l. (I am doing a water change later tonight)

Yeah thanks HN1 for being nice and not assuming.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zer0 View Post
snip
Thank god you caught that mistake, I meant it the other way around. Sorry, it's been a long time since I've kept marine aquaria, here is an excerpt from the book I use: "The normal SG readings for most tanks range from 1.022 to 1.026. At these levels, most fishes even those from the Red Sea, will do well. Fish-only aquariums may be run at the lower end of the range- 1.020 to 1.023-without problems, but many keepers of corals and delicate invertabrates keep their tanks at SG levels close to that of natrual seawater: from 1.024-1.026"

I think it's time for me to retire my SW advice badge.

EDIT: Nitrates are way too high. It needs to be less than 5ppm.

2 50% water changes of RO water will reduce it to that amount. Done over the course of 2-3 days.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:59 PM   #9
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What action should I take in the lowering of these nitrates?
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:03 PM   #10
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What action should I take in the lowering of these nitrates?
Beyond PWC, not much. What's the volume of your tank. Reducing stocking levels also will slow down the rate of nitrate production. As will reducing feeding. Basically any action that reduces the amount of organics going into your tank.
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