Coral sick

[hardingj]

Just noticed my coral has been getting a brown slime over it and it's been killing it. Does anyone know what it could be? And how to get rid of it?




2. Current lighting & Bulb Age:
2T5 bulbs, one blue, one white

3. Nitrate:
20ppm
4. Calcium:
400
5. Phosphate:
1ppm
6. Alkalinity:
Not sure
7. pH:
8.4
8. Salinity:
1.026
9. Temperature:
24 degrees
10. Liquid or strip test kits:
Using api test kits
11. Location in tank:
Middle
12. Current amount of flow:
Not sure but I have 2 wave makers
13. Current tank dosing regimen:

14. Nearby coral:
Hammer and bubble is underneath but about 25 Cm away



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[Sniperhank]

Sadly, it isn't enough light for a flowerpot. The other issue, is that these guys take a long, long time to die and a small injury leads to their death. They have a very high mortality rate and I think impossible to keep.
The 'fuzz' could either be a sponge, fungus, or algae. My money would be on a fungus. A dip in a solution like coralRX would help with this issue, but I'm afraid it won't be enough to save the flowerpot. It is far too gone.

 

[mr_X]

As Hank stated, these should be left in the ocean. There are some tank raised specimens that do ok in closed systems, but most do not.
Also, alkalinity is probably the most important parameter you should know, after ammonia if you intend to keep corals.

 

[hardingj]

As Hank stated, these should be left in the ocean. There are some tank raised specimens that do ok in closed systems, but most do not.
Also, alkalinity is probably the most important parameter you should know, after ammonia if you intend to keep corals.

Is alkalinity the same as KH? My KH is sitting at ~10.


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[hardingj]

Sadly, it isn't enough light for a flowerpot. The other issue, is that these guys take a long, long time to die and a small injury leads to their death. They have a very high mortality rate and I think impossible to keep.
The 'fuzz' could either be a sponge, fungus, or algae. My money would be on a fungus. A dip in a solution like coralRX would help with this issue, but I'm afraid it won't be enough to save the flowerpot. It is far too gone.

I've just found about coralrx and eager to try it out. It's a shame though, it was such a nice coral and up until now it's been fine, had it for almost 4 months.

Thanks


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[mr_X]

Coral RX is for parasites, not fungus or Brown Jelly disease. Yes, KH is alkalinity, and 10 is fine, but stability is the key- if it's bouncing up and down corals can fail. How are you keeping your levels stable?

For BJD I would try a Lugols dip. Iodine.

 

[hardingj]

Coral RX is for parasites, not fungus or Brown Jelly disease. Yes, KH is alkalinity, and 10 is fine, but stability is the key- if it's bouncing up and down corals can fail. How are you keeping your levels stable?

For BJD I would try a Lugols dip. Iodine.

I haven't really had to do anything to keep it stable. Before I started using ro/di water (less than a week ago) it was always at 12, no matter when I tested it. Now I've started using ro/di water I've managed to get it below 12, now 10, so I'll just keep monitoring it and making sure it's stable. I have KH up if it continues to dip. And I can calcium dose if my calcium levels drop but they have been quite stable to far ~380-400.

Do you have anything to recommend?

Thanks


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[mr_X]

Calcium and alkalinity will be used up as the demand increases. I would suggest looking into a 2 part product. What size tank is this and what kind of coral load are we talking about? How about a full tank shot?
Your calcium API kit is not accurate. If you have a kh of 10-12, you definitely do not have a calcium level of 400. Strip test kits are even less accurate.
You should address the lighting as well. I'm not sure if this is the reason for the goniopora failing though. The polyps seem nice and green, so my guess was something else is the culprit.

 

[PB_Smith]

I haven't really had to do anything to keep it stable. Before I started using ro/di water (less than a week ago) it was always at 12, no matter when I tested it. Now I've started using ro/di water I've managed to get it below 12, now 10, so I'll just keep monitoring it and making sure it's stable. I have KH up if it continues to dip. And I can calcium dose if my calcium levels drop but they have been quite stable to far ~380-400.

Do you have anything to recommend?

Thanks


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What was the source of your water previously?
If it was from the tap there is the possibility of residual copper or other metals that could have been absorbed by the rock and slowly leaching back out.

Just the fact that your readings immediately dropped tells us there was a lot of dissolved solids in the source water, some maybe not desirable.

 

[hardingj]

Calcium and alkalinity will be used up as the demand increases. I would suggest looking into a 2 part product. What size tank is this and what kind of coral load are we talking about? How about a full tank shot?
Your calcium API kit is not accurate. If you have a kh of 10-12, you definitely do not have a calcium level of 400. Strip test kits are even less accurate.
You should address the lighting as well. I'm not sure if this is the reason for the goniopora failing though. The polyps seem nice and green, so my guess was something else is the culprit.

Yeh ok no worries. As soon as I have a bit more money I'll be definitely looking into new lighting (probably this Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Fixture 48" 60" Wireless Ramp Timer PRO | eBay), but yeh one thing at a time.

I just tested my calcium at 420, and my KH at 10, both with API test kits. Does that sound better? I have 7 corals in my tank at the moment. Ill upload a picture as well.

 

[hardingj]

What was the source of your water previously?
If it was from the tap there is the possibility of residual copper or other metals that could have been absorbed by the rock and slowly leaching back out.

Just the fact that your readings immediately dropped tells us there was a lot of dissolved solids in the source water, some maybe not desirable.

Yeh it was tap water. Never knew how bad tap water was until now. D:

 

[hardingj]

all the corals are asleep now so it doesn't look that great.

that brown slime has really taken over that goniopora over the last couple of hours as well.




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[PB_Smith]

Yeh ok no worries. As soon as I have a bit more money I'll be definitely looking into new lighting (probably this Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Fixture 48" 60" Wireless Ramp Timer PRO | eBay), but yeh one thing at a time.

I just tested my calcium at 420, and my KH at 10, both with API test kits. Does that sound better? I have 7 corals in my tank at the moment. Ill upload a picture as well.

Unfortunately I think that light is kinda underpowered at only 46 watts.
Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light, Saltwater LED | Current-USA

regardless of what the manufacturer states, you probably want something with a little more power.
Most of the ones that are reasonably priced with all the bells, whistles, doodads and gadgets are also usually underpowered in terms of lighting power and when you dig deep into their literature, they often recommend multiple units.

Get one of those Taotronics or similar LEDs on amazon and some timers and you will be much happier in the long run and will have saved some $$.

at least that is my opinion......

 

[PB_Smith]

Yeh it was tap water. Never knew how bad tap water was until now. D:

I would recommend running some Chemi-Pure blue on the tank and see if that helps.
if you suspect residual copper (if your house has copper piping) maybe run some Cupra-sorb as well.

 

[mr_X]

No, that calcium is probably closer to the mid 300s.
The current fixture you linked is only good for low to medium light corals, so be sure that's all you want to keep before you pull the trigger.

 

[54seaweed]

looking at this flower pot it's beyond saving , if it's producing a brown slim I would just remove it , before it spreads to other things , the light your running is only good for low light coral such as zoas , most lps need med to high light and steady med flow
sps needs high light with good flow , I'm sure if you remove it your going to notice a rancid smell thats because its almost completely dead , flower pots are one of the hardest lps to keep even for experts , invest in better lighting before you attempt more lps , or sps

 

[mr_X]

Don't dose the tank with anything.

 

[hardingj]

Unfortunately I think that light is kinda underpowered at only 46 watts.
Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light, Saltwater LED | Current-USA

regardless of what the manufacturer states, you probably want something with a little more power.
Most of the ones that are reasonably priced with all the bells, whistles, doodads and gadgets are also usually underpowered in terms of lighting power and when you dig deep into their literature, they often recommend multiple units.

Get one of those Taotronics or similar LEDs on amazon and some timers and you will be much happier in the long run and will have saved some $$.

at least that is my opinion......

Would 2 of these be enough? In terms of cost 2 of these would still be cheaper then 1 of some other led lights I've looked at. And I'm not able to hang lights, as I'm renting so this one just seems the most convenient.


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[hardingj]

looking at this flower pot it's beyond saving , if it's producing a brown slim I would just remove it , before it spreads to other things , the light your running is only good for low light coral such as zoas , most lps need med to high light and steady med flow
sps needs high light with good flow , I'm sure if you remove it your going to notice a rancid smell thats because its almost completely dead , flower pots are one of the hardest lps to keep even for experts , invest in better lighting before you attempt more lps , or sps

I woke up this morning to find it completely covered in that brown slime, so I've taken it out now. The same thing happened to my torch coral probably 2 months ago. Is there anything I can do to prevent this brown slime?


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[hardingj]

Don't dose the tank with anything.

Wasn't planning on it haha. Do you think this light would be better maybe http://daluaaustralia.com.au/OurProducts/Illumagic/COBSA/tabid/88/mode/details/pid/2/Default.aspx?

Thanks for all your help


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