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Old 03-17-2005, 12:29 AM   #11
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Good, I'm glad that this thread got you're blood boiling, it was my intention to bring to the attention of whomever this is directed at, that newbies have feelings and don't need to be talked to as though we are 5 year olds in a kindergarten class. I am very good and accomplished at many things throughout my life, but never would I make anyone feel as though I am better than them just because I have done it longer
One last thing. First, I don't believe that most on this site treat anyone this way. Second, what do you want to hear from us? Would you like us to agree with everything? Do you want straight answers, or reassurance that everything you are doing is 100% correct? We have all made mistakes and by sharing these mistakes we help each other.
I'm done. :|
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Old 03-17-2005, 12:51 AM   #12
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(from what i have been told all fish have ick, it just takes a drastic change in the tank to make it visable).
Did your LFS tell you this? It's not exactly correct. Fish have a slime coating on the oustide of them. When they stress out alot, they lose this slime coating, which allows ich (a parasite) to attach.

Also, sorry you feel so badly about this site, and the people here. I think you might have taken everyone the wrong way.

Anyways, I wish you good luck with your fish.
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Old 03-17-2005, 12:52 AM   #13
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You're the best, qshark. 8)
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:02 AM   #14
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Thats the first time someone said that the advice I had given them was done in a manor that was demening and/or 'talking down'.

If you wish to leave thats your own decision. You can look at other sites like http://www.reefsantuary.com http://www.reefs.org or http://www.reefcentral.com

Best of luck with your tank and with finding a website thats a 'best fit' for you.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:06 AM   #15
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GEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE EEZ these are long posts, too bored too read sorry buds.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:30 AM   #16
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Things can be read in different ways. The downfall of the internet world, and reading. In any case.. Is it a good thing that the LFS wouldn't have told you about such. Dosn't that kind of mean they are as inexperienced as you are, Or as I am. (( Im a freshwater gal )). All the same, not to say that your LFS isnt great and everything but their purpose is to sell fish, supplies, and medicine. And to keep fish from comming back dead, or alive, within the return policy. Such as the - alive for 14 day policy as petsmart for example. This site is trying to get money from your wallet. So i'd say chill out buddy, take a breather. And just take some things into consideration. ^^ i hope you come to the conclusion that we are not talking down, truly we are only giving you information on our past experiences, or what we have found through friends, or other sites on the internet.

(( Long posts a new trend?? ))
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:32 AM   #17
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Whoa! Major edit.
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This site is trying to get money from your wallet
This site ISNT trying to get money from your wallet!
Whoopsie
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:56 AM   #18
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xahx, The least you could do is be respetful of the inital poster and read thru the prevous comments before posting. IMO its stuff like your message that turns people away from the internet when looking for information.

Rach101 has some good comments. While we do accept donations members are in no way required or even expected to donate. Where as with a retail outlet everyone that walks into their store is a potental sale and regretfully very few stores will turn away a potental sale even if they know its in everyone (including the fish or corals) best interest.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:12 PM   #19
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This is a Crazy Post

iceblueconcepts - I am also a newbie and agree with a lot of what you are saying but also realize this is free advice. So I take what I can get. What I find most amusing is that almost all potential "illness" responses start with "you must quarentene" for 6 to 8 weeks. Great advice and also the most conservative.

For many of us newbies we have just spent up to $2000-$3000 on a new HOBBY. Of cource we researched setup, cycling, treatments, water levels, etc. Some of us even checked out several books from the library or ordered them online. But it is hard hearing "go spend another $200 on a QT tank to fix the mistakes made by LFS recommendations". Not to mention finding the space, additional power outlets, treatment chemicals, pounds & pounds of salt, and having to explain to friends and guests why you have screwed up looking fish in a QT and nothing in your nice, main tank. Now that I've vented here's my free newbie response to your issues.

My understanding is you've got a complete setup w/55-gal tank, sterilizer, protein skimmer, LR, and powerheads. Ammonia & nitrite = 0; nitrate <20; had varying pH - now adding buffer; QT tank (size, components unknown).

1. Make sure your carbonate hardness (dKH) stays between 10-12 (this is what the buffer is for- prevents pH swings) - I use Kent Superbuffer. Most LFS don't tell you to test for this. When I first started I lost 3 fish in 2 weeks even though my starter fish (damsels) were not affected.
2. I add Kent Garlic Extreme (~$15) to strengthen fish immunity. It's an all natural supplement that is reef safe (the more online research I do, the more recommendations for Garlic I read).
3. Once you start using the garlic watch the tank for a week and see if the ich has subsided (the ich won't be gone but your fishes immunity may be strong enough to reject it). If this happens then the ich won't find any hosts, your fish will look healthier, and the ich should die off naturally in 6- 8 weeks.
4. If the ich continues to get worse, move the fish to a QT and treat w/a recommended copper treatment.
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90-gallon marine tank with a couple clowns and sailfin tang. Several invertes including 12 emerald green crabs, 20 hermit crabs, 3 peppermint shrimp, 6 turbo snails, and a BTA. Protein skimmer with 100-pounds live rock, Total 495 watts lighting w/2-MH, power compacts and lunars. Ammonia & Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = 10, specific gravity: 1.025. Using Sea-Lab 28 and Kalkwaisser to maintain calcium at 400 ppm.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:37 PM   #20
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Let me say that it is incumbent upon ALL of us to try to take critique and suggestions without taking it personally or getting offended. I'll bet that the experts on this board have all made their share of mistakes, and now are generous enough with their time to help us all out - they are only trying to help us AVOID errors in our setups.

I, for one, like to hear more than one side of an issue. I would suggest re-reading all of the posts here and elsewhere and you'll see good info delivered straight up - the way it should be. Sometimes there is disagreement, but that's good, too.

These guys are not trying to SELL you anything, so I would take their free advice as something incredibly valuable - it's knowledge gained by experience.

I, for one, will be staying tuned.....
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30 gal standard 55 lbs LR, 60 lb live sand, 10 gal sump/refugium. Urchin skimmer, mag7 pump, 3 x 96W PC combination 10,000K/actinic bulb, 2 blue LED moonlights
SG 1.024, temp 79.5, pH 8.4

Livestock I added:

1 skunk cleaner. 12 hermits: red, scarlet, blue. 15 or so assorted snails. Discosomas, Ricordia, Rhodactis mushroom corals, chaetomorpha (sump), 1 feather duster, Montipora digitata, Montipora capricornis, Montipora hispids. assorted zoos, Xenia, Kenya tree coral, green Sinularia, green star polyps, branching hammer coral, bubble coral, Devil's hand leather. Yellow chromis, purple firefish.

Hitchhikers: the usual suspects :crabs, bristles, urchin, mantis shrimp (now in exile in mantis tank)

List of possible/likely newcomers:

Feather duster. PJ cardinal, Bangghai cardinal, Firefish goby, Clownfish, Neon goby, Yellow watchman goby, Orchid dottyback. Various corals.
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